Problems with lowering mustang 2003 Mustang GT - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-13-2010 Thread Starter
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Exclamation Problems with lowering mustang 2003 Mustang GT

hey guys im very concerned with lowering my mustang, i have the h & R lowering kit its about 1.5"... my concern is my friend tells me that his civic when he lowered it he had to change his shocks and a whole bunch of stuff or else his car would of collapsed and he kept it in good condition.. my stangs been thorugh all 8 winters and is pretty rusted underneath, would lowering my stang damage my shocks and struts or would anything bad happen? because he is realy scaring me and i dont want anythign ereversable to happen


2003 GT Fire Red/Beige Conv. 4R70W
-C.A.I., 78mm TB&P, S.F.I UDP, 31 spline 8.8" reared w/ 4.10 gears, LT & Prochamber, Borla S

????
hp (lets find out)
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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lowering car on stock shocks n struts will jsut wear tehm out faster. buy some new shocks and struts made for lowered cars

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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You could put the springs on with your stock shocks/struts but you'll have an incredibly stiff, bumpy, and harsh ride quality. Your car won't collapse. This is what you need to do for a proper installation.

New shocks and struts

My recomendations:

Budget = Koni STR T's or Tokico HP Blues

Non Budget = Bilstein HD's or Tokico fully adjustable(the black ones forget the model)

You will also need new caster camber plates

And last this isn't required but I'd recommend a bump steer kit to correct the front end geometry.(just google bump steer kit mustang or check out UPR or Americanmuscle)

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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ya new cc plates for sure with a 1.5 kit and a bump steer. but being lowered man i swear i have a 1.5 in just the front and i get high centered in a puddle

cams, and all basic bolt ons, arizen seats, cowl hood, and now my buckets got a hole in it (meaning im broke) but when i fix it ill have gears and some trany work
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_35th View Post
My recomendations:

Budget = Koni STR T's or Tokico HP Blues

Non Budget = Bilstein HD's or Tokico fully adjustable(the black ones forget the model)

You will also need new caster camber plates

And last this isn't required but I'd recommend a bump steer kit to correct the front end geometry.(just google bump steer kit mustang or check out UPR or Americanmuscle)
+1 black, and the black tokico's r totico D-specs like I installed... I had Bilsteins before the d-specs. For non-adjustables they r good but I wanted adjustables...

For the record if you drop a 99-04 'stang 1", you don't need, but Camber/Castor "(C/C)" plates r recommended.(though I say all stangs need em)

For a 1.5" drop you need c/c plates, and bump steer kit is recommended.

For a 2" or more you must have c/c plates and bump steer kit, and Steeda ball joints and/or re-engineered front suspension (k-member/a-arms) r recommended...

2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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Yea like everyone else said pick up some struts and shocks (Which brand is your choice) some C/C plates (I would say either Maximum Motorsports or J&M) and a bumpsteer kit.

I recommend the Steeda Bumpsteer Kit so you don't have to drill out the spindle like the other kits require you too but if you don't mind drilling I know the UPR Kit is a bit cheaper.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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I gotta ask- how bad is the rust?

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torchred02GT View Post
Yea like everyone else said pick up some struts and shocks (Which brand is your choice) some C/C plates (I would say either Maximum Motorsports or J&M) and a bumpsteer kit.

I recommend the Steeda Bumpsteer Kit so you don't have to drill out the spindle like the other kits require you too but if you don't mind drilling I know the UPR Kit is a bit cheaper.
The new UPR kit is tapered just like the Steeda, so no drilling required either. That's what's on my car.

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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010
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Tokico "D- Specs". Lol - Thanks Roush. I think I'm losing my mind here...

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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 07-14-2010 Thread Starter
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that is very expensive and im disappointed in my self for going ahead and buying springs withought reasearching it up before... now i got a set of springs and i still need to spend more then double there worth to just have them functional and not having my shock breaking on me.. and the rust is very bad im surprised my axles have not broken off... anything i can do for that otehr then rust prooffing it for teh first time ?

2003 GT Fire Red/Beige Conv. 4R70W
-C.A.I., 78mm TB&P, S.F.I UDP, 31 spline 8.8" reared w/ 4.10 gears, LT & Prochamber, Borla S

????
hp (lets find out)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_35th View Post
Tokico "D- Specs". Lol - Thanks Roush. I think I'm losing my mind here...
LOSING???? HECK if your like "me" you CAN'T LOSE WHAT YA NEVER HAD... LOL

2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stage2 ROUSH View Post
LOSING???? HECK if your like "me" you CAN'T LOSE WHAT YA NEVER HAD... LOL
Lol!



Bangii, it's normal for the axle to have a layer of rust around it. If your feeling up to it you could get under your car and sand the rust off + use an auto rust remover product.

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Well you can install them and rock the stock shocks for a while. Just be wary of rough roads. I've already crapped my shocks after a few months of being lowered, but one road I have to take to get to work SUCKS. It's like riding my dirt bike through a rocky creek, there's so many pot holes.

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Quote:
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Well you can install them and rock the stock shocks for a while. Just be wary of rough roads. I've already crapped my shocks after a few months of being lowered, but one road I have to take to get to work SUCKS. It's like riding my dirt bike through a rocky creek, there's so many pot holes.
+1 I've been riding on my stock shocks/struts with eibach lowering springs with stock caster camber plates adjusted to the max with stock bump steer for 10 months now(my tokico's should be in tomarrow- wooo!). You could do it man. Get your alignment done but keep an eye out on the inner part of the front tires for excessive wear. I've had no problem with my inner tires, but you are a 1/4" lower than me...

Budget shocks and struts aren't too expensive. The Koni STR T's and Tokico HP Blues will run about 300.00 for all 4.

You could pic up Steeda caster camber plates for $189.00...

10+ Year Mustang owner.
99 Mustang GT - mint condition
-
04 Terminator - Pullied, diablo predator tuner with dyno tune, airbags, MM subs/cc plates, Wilwood brakes, 4 point roll bar, FR500 steering wheel, staggered bullitts, JLT cai, Magnaflow exhaust, mgw shifter

00 V6 - Kenny Brown V6 stuff, Dr Gas x pipe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black_35th View Post
+1 I've been riding on my stock shocks/struts with eibach lowering springs with stock caster camber plates adjusted to the max with stock bump steer for 10 months now(my tokico's should be in tomarrow- wooo!). You could do it man. Get your alignment done but keep an eye out on the inner part of the front tires for excessive wear. I've had no problem with my inner tires, but you are a 1/4" lower than me...

Budget shocks and struts aren't too expensive. The Koni STR T's and Tokico HP Blues will run about 300.00 for all 4.

You could pic up Steeda caster camber plates for $189.00...
If you do go without struts n c/c plates then try to get the Tokico d-specs or the bilstiens... a little more in $'s but allot more in performance... and for the C/C plates GET THE J&M's as they have more adjustments than the steedas and r cheaper look Camber Plates


2002 ROUSH Stage 2, set up for SCCA/Autocross. ROUSH 13" brakes,ROUSH 37mm front sway, ROUSH upper & lower arms, Vogtland coil springs w/ isolators removed, ROUSH CAI, 275/40/17's on 17x9 Bullitt rims on all corners, Hawk brake pads, Tokico D-spec struts n shocks, adjustable rear sway bar, Steeda f&r strut/shock tower brace, bumpsteer kit, J&M C/C plates, sub-frame connectors....
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