I really need help with this car Im getting desperate. - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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I really need help with this car Im getting desperate.

Ok, ive posted on here just a few days ago about a possible IAC problem with a coinciding lean code. The lean code disapeared after i found a tiny vacuum leak in the EGR delete plate that i fixed... well.. It came back.... ugh ive been fighting this problem for awhile now. Ive checked all vacuum lines ive replaced the 02 sensors out, ive removed my egr, I got a tune for my upgrades, etc.... Im at a loss. Today im replacing my fuel filter, pcv valve, Idle Air Control valve, and Throttle Position Sensor. I took the car to ford and they dont have a clue whats going on.

So heres what its doing..

When its warming up it idles at 1000 rpm's and runs fine no sputter or anything.

After it warms up for a bit it sputters or dies at an idle. Basically when i let go of the gas and press the clutch it dies.. drops down to 200 rpms.. or bounces between 300 and 800 rpms. But if i leave it idleing for awhile it run like crap but evens out idle y's.

also with slight gas input it stutters mainly between 800 to 1200 rpms its will jerk and just all around run like crap. but anything over that it will run fine. and smooth.

Its ticken me off soo much im thinking about selling it.. Trust me this cars my baby selling it to me is like you pawning off your kid or similar.

PLEASE im begging what in the world should i do/check/whatever not even any mechanic hear has a clue whats up with this car.

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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Even though i have no expertise in the field of new mustangs (I own a '68) mine was just doing this same thing. i had a vacuum leak so it ran like crap and had lean mixture. i fixed the leak and it still stalled out at idle in drive. i fixed my problem by adjusting the idle fuel mixture on the carburetor to run richer and the problem went away. i have no clue if you can do this on electronic fuel injected cars at all. maybe it has something to do with the throttle plate if thats adjustable or even clogged injectors, which could rob some of your fuel input.

no mustang owner wants to see another sell their baby. hope it all works out.


1968 Coupe 289. Currently a driving work in progress. the progress is dictated by limited cash flow =]
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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Did the problem coincide with any recent upgrades or modifications?

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Yes I put in a set of long tube headers and a set if high flow h pipe. It worked fine till I cut the cats out then it started to run lean.. so I got a tune with no luck and replaced the cats with no luck.... and everythingelse is mentioned in original post
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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Sounds too conincidental to be anything other than the long tubes since that is when it started. I assume you have reset the ecm via unhooking the battery. If you believe it's vaccum, here are a few things I found in the past. First off, there is a vac line which enters the firewall and controls the blend doors. It usually enters into a t-fitting which mine came loose. Drop your glovebox and you will see it in there. Also, once my evap canister lines clogged. I had to replace my gascap and the 2 vac lines which run into the passenger fenderwell(where the canister is). Fixed my problems(almost exactly like yours). Good luck, worth a look if you believe vac is the issue. By the way, a vac air gauge helps big time.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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By chance do u have a pic of the vac lines and canister u were talking about.. and ill look into the firewall lines what general Psi should the vac be ill get a vac gauge.. and the gas cap I replaced with a locking one about a month ago way after this started could that be a probpem.. thanks so much I have somewhat of a hope now

Oh and it could be the long tube headers ? What could cause that with long tube headers sorry if I sound dumb I just don't understand how they would cause it

Last edited by hotshot; 08-26-2010 at 06:54 PM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010
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Eliminating the o2's can set the ecm into all kinds of conditions obviously. If anything introduces more or less air into the fuel/air mixture, the ecm has to adjust. First off, disconnect both battery terminals and hold them together for a couple of minutes. Don't let them touch anything else. This will discharge the capacitors in the electronics and reset the idle in the ecu. Next, I would electronically check-then clean the IAC and maf with carb cleaner.

In regards to vac problems, installing the long tubes may have pulled a vac line loose. This is why I mentioned the 2 areas most don't look at or into. I don't have pics right now but...first make sure your vac line to the back of the intake manifold is still on. Next, the line which goes into the passenger firewall is easily visible under the glovebox. It goes into a t-fitting and controls the blend door and hvac controls. I pulled this free when changing my intake manifold. This line sits on top of a pressure cylinder for hvac. Last, the charcoal canister is inside the passenger fenderwell. Take the wheel off and the fender lining, it's right there easy to get at. One line goes to the fuel tank and the other 2 go up into your engine bay. I don't remember my vac pressure, but if you don't have a gauge use carb cleaner. Just carefully spray your vac lines one at a time. If your idle raises...you found it. All stuff to look into if you think it's vac related and can't find it elsewhere.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-25-2010 Thread Starter
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Awesome ill check all of those thanks SOP much I think I have an ideal. There is a line that runs next to the passenger long tube headers that got pinched during install SOP ill spray it to see if its a vac line and if its leaking and I changed the iac and tps today and ill inspect those lines ASAP

Awesome ill check all of those thanks SOP much I think I have an ideal. There is a line that runs next to the passenger long tube headers that got pinched during install SOP ill spray it to see if its a vac line and if its leaking and I changed the iac and tps today and ill inspect those lines ASAP

Last edited by hotshot; 08-26-2010 at 06:54 PM.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-27-2010 Thread Starter
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Ok so I checked them all out no leaks or lose lines replaced my tps and iac now it is running really bad but I don't have any cel any more now its just running as if I'm not running on all eight cyllinders its bogging with light throttle souns like its misfireing and the idle is crazy sporadic and dies almost overtime I push in the clutch and don't give it gas... I'm lost I was thinking maybe fuel injector or spark plug or coil maybe ..... god this sux
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Im curious if you found the problem. I'll say this, if it's your only vehicle and you need it to get you to school/work adjust the throttle stop screw on top behind the intake in a pinch to keep it running. Post back when you find out-
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no cats is bad could be stuck closed injector or could be missing a small leak.. the reason why it got worse might be when you put in the tps theres a specific way to do it. hard to explain. check with a screwdriver too here if its ticking and let me know def. check that tps sensor really need a scan tool
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010 Thread Starter
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So here's an update I forgot I had my act chip set for no cats and I just installed cats onto my car.. so I set it back to stock it runs a lot better now but I'm now getting a egr high flow code (i deleted my egr) and a sensor saying I'm running at maximum limits and the other sensor saying I'm running rich now haha I guess its better then lean so I'm going to call sct and get a re tune for egr removed and high flow cats hopefully it works think this will help??
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It may help, and its worth getting a tune for what you have. Still sounds like a combination of things, vacuum leak, IAC, and maybe something else. Have you pulled the plugs and read them? That can be a big help if you know how to read plugs. Cleaning the IAC can help, but sometimes it just needs to be replaced. Not saying you should go buy one, but its something to examine. The rear O2's have nothing to do with it, they only monitor cat efficiency and if you remove them or the cats you'll get a cel, but they have nothing to do with the way the car runs. Your O2's (front) may be bad also, but best plan is to get hold of a fsm and go through the chase down process.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010 Thread Starter
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I just replaced the iac and my front o2 sensors are new (3 months old) I have literally check all vacuum lines and nothing... so I was thinking that because my egr valve is removed the computer might be over compensating causing it to run rich... thus the new tune to go for the egr valve off might work ??? And specifically set a tune for my current set up.. other then that I don't know anymore so currently running rich with a cel for the egr and my o2 sensors are sayin% im running rich any thought on what to do now ?????
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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old 08-28-2010 Thread Starter
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My apologies I haven't pulled the plugs yet black is rich and white is lean right ??? Ill pull them tomorrow morning ... thanks for all the help thankfully I got rid of a few issues Oy.. if its not one thing its another with my car I must have ticked it off somehow haha

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