1997 mustang wont ignite - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012 Thread Starter
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1997 mustang wont ignite

Hello lets start with I have a 97 mustang gt v8 standard I had new engine transmission ect put all new well last month i shut the car off and had no power at all bought a new battery and alternator got all power back but it wont ignite brought to mechnic for a month all sensors codes ect are fine

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangsavoy View Post
Hello lets start with I have a 97 mustang gt v8 standard I had new engine transmission ect put all new well last month i shut the car off and had no power at all bought a new battery and alternator got all power back but it wont ignite brought to mechnic for a month all sensors codes ect are fine
Holy wow...
?????
Start again, dude. New tranny and engine. Sweet. Are we to assume the car operated reasonably well after that, and then one day it stopped?
...New battery and alternator, and has power but won't "ignite." Let's guess that means "crank over." But you might mean it has no spark. Dunno.
Then a mechnic has it for a month... determines everything's fine. But... it won't start.

This is too confusing and leaves many questions unanswered. Clarify.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2012
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The only thing I would have replaced in this situation would be your mechanic.
As stated above, by Burns... Check the basics. Fuel shut-off switch. Fuzes. Battery connections. Connection to starter.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by mustangsavoy View Post
Hello lets start with I have a 97 mustang gt v8 standard I had new engine transmission ect put all new well last month i shut the car off and had no power at all bought a new battery and alternator got all power back but it wont ignite brought to mechnic for a month all sensors codes ect are fine
the car ran excellent when all was replaced the battery im guessing was junk because it was running fine then shut it off turned it back on there was nothing the post i did is exactly what happened sorry i didnt think it was confusing im a women sorry i guess the next step is too check fuses and what ever else you people suggested im new to nc soo i dont know any good mechanics i just no he wasnt the answer he couldnt find nothing wrong with it!!!!!
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-27-2012
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1996+ Crank with no start check list

Quote:
Originally Posted by mustangsavoy View Post
the car ran excellent when all was replaced the battery im guessing was junk because it was running fine then shut it off turned it back on there was nothing the post i did is exactly what happened sorry i didnt think it was confusing im a women sorry i guess the next step is too check fuses and what ever else you people suggested im new to nc soo i dont know any good mechanics i just no he wasnt the answer he couldnt find nothing wrong with it!!!!!
Just wondering, do you plan on doing the work yourself? As a reminder this is the tech section.

Also note that the quality of the help you get is largely affected by the quality of the information that you provide.

Garbage in = Garbage out.

1996+ Crank with no start check list.

Check all fuses under the hood (BJB=panel F1) and driver's kick panel (CJB=Panel F2). Check the trunk mounted IFS cut off switch.

1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...1.html#2669271

Check the Grounds around the radiator core support. Are they clean and tight? Perform a through visual inspection of the visible ground connectors that are almost always black wires or black with a white stripe.

Pay special attention to the PCM/CCRM ground which is a large black wire with a white stripe. From the radiator core support it travels around the battery to a round single pin connector. Confirm that this ground hasn't become disconnected. Note, very possible to accidentally disconnect during a battery replacement.

Check the battery and battery terminals. Are they clean and tight? Pay special attention to the battery negative as it's bad about splitting when over tightened. Is the battery fully charged?

It's always a good idea to confirm that the alternator is good. A bad alternator diode will cause excessive AC ripple that will "cause" other symptoms. Almost all auto parts stores will do alternator tests for free.

Bottom line. Today's cars simply will not run right without a strong battery and charging system. Do not cut corners here!

More information on Howto perform charging system voltage drop tests.
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...-drop-test.56/

Confirm that the fuel pressure regulator/sensor intake vacuum reference line is connected and leak free. Inspect the line for raw gas. If any is found, repair/replace.

If you have access to an ODB2 scanner/reader, check to see if the PCM will "talk". If so, this will confirm that the PCM is getting power and functioning at some level. Note, IF the PCM is not getting power, this will CAUSE an apparent PATS problem.

For the 1999+ model year if the cluster is displaying all dashes ("------") this is a sure sign that either the PCM is not getting power, PCM has lost programming, or the PCM is bad. STOP and find out why.

Unlock the driver's door with the key. Use the remote key FOB to lock and unlock the car. On some systems, this will reset PATS after a battery disconnect.

Turn the key on/pause/off several times but do not crank. Listen for the fuel pump to run for a few seconds. A helper may make this easier. If the fuel pump never runs, STOP and find out why.

Turn the key on but do not crank. Confirm that the theft light goes off after a 3 second "prove out". If not, STOP and find out why.

*NOTE: sometimes the PATS system can be affected by large metal objects on the key ring. When a possible PATS issues is suspected, try again with JUST the key. Even better try with a different key.

*NOTE: If PATS has been disabled via a custom tune, then the theft light will still blink as if tripped but the motor will start anyway.

Does the theft light blink or on solid during cranking? If so, STOP and find out why.

Pay close attention to the check engine light during cranking. It should go out during cranking indicating that the PCM is receiving a CKP signal. Does the check engine light STAY ON SOLID during cranking? IF so suspect a missing CKP sensor signal or other basic crank shaft sensor issue. STOP and find out why.

Hold the throttle half way open during cranking. What changes?

Disconnect the MAF electrical connector. Does it start now?

Will the motor start or "hit" on a small amount of starting fluid? Note be careful using starting fluid on a modern fuel injected car!!

If you follow all of the steps and post the results likely you will get much better response than the 1st time.

Good luck.

PS if you honestly didn't think that the opening post wasn't confusing, then this offers further proof that Men are from Mars and Women are from Venus.

More information on an affordable full featured ODB2 scanner:
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-for...elm327-usb.57/

Note: if you have access to an ODB2 scanner check to see that the values as reported by the PCM are "reasonable".
  • MAF flow. Should change during cranking.
  • RPM's should change during cranking. If they do not, suspect a problem with the CKP sensor.
  • Input Air Temperature (IAT). An open circuit IAT will often read -40 degrees. This can create a hard/no start condition.
  • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT). The ECT should read close to IAT on a stone cold motor.
  • Fuel pressure (FRPS) for 1999+

Last edited by wmburns; 05-15-2019 at 12:35 AM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-28-2012
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Hello, new guy here. Joined up for this exact reason so hope you dont mind if I just jump in on this thread.

My friend is inept and he has the 2003 GT, it has been sitting now for at least a year. Im a car guy and can stand letting things rot so im going to bat for him.

I put my spare (good) Optima in for test purposes, cleaned the terminals well and put them on tight.

I checked to see if the inertia button needed to be reset, it was pushed down no click.

I locked, unlocked, and then locked the car with the remote. i then unlocked it with the key and hit unlock again with the remote.

I had him sit in the seat while I went to the back of the car, had him switch it to on and heard and felt the fuel pump hum.

Waited a few secs no theft lights, steady or blinking.

Turned the key, starter engages and cranks but engine will not turn over.

Checked the schrader valve on the rail, fuel present.

Im a car guy, but not a mustang guy (EASY I like em Ive just never owned one) Im hoping someone on here will know better than me whats most likely the next step on these cars.

Like I said its been awhile with this problem so who knows how long he sat out there over the year just blindly cranking it, so Im thinking about pulling the plugs and see if he loaded it up and fouled them.(he told me he started smelling fuel after a while)

He also told me he got it to start once and it ran for 10 mins and shut off.

So what should I do? Ive got the Crank and Cam sensors ready to go...again anything I should know??

Ive also read about a CCRM, If i have power at the coils would that rule out the CCRM?

Is the CCRM just a collection of the engine control relays that is tucked away or is it some kind of surper relay that has to be replaced as a whole?

Any info or input would be great, thanks.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012
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So what about ALL of the tests? Disconnect the MAF what happens? Hold the throttle half way down?

Further, if the car has been setting for over a year, the gas may just be STALE.

Regarding a possible CCRM problem. You confirmed that the fuel pump is RUNNING. Further you confirmed that the theft light went out after "prove out". Therefore the odds favor that the CCRM is working and supplying power to the PCM and Fuel pump. Look else where for the problem.

Have you CHECKED the fuses? Have you confirmed spark?

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 06-29-2012
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Yea fuses were good,spark is a confirmed NO. I thought that was the point of this thread?

I did not think of the MAF untill reading this thread, which was late last night so I have not yet had a chance to test it out, again not my car. Just trying to get all the info I can before going at it again, such as any tricks or anything special involved in getting at the crank or cam sensors so i can go back prepared. Thanks.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-13-2012
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the theft light blinks fast and none stop cant find out why......car starts for a min then shuts off.1997 GT

Last edited by 19MustangGT97; 10-13-2012 at 11:10 PM. Reason: left out worging
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Where and what is the MAF Still blowing F2. F21 ty Another thing you may need to Know is we have removed the doors from the car.

Last edited by canadan; 01-16-2013 at 11:44 AM. Reason: More info
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I am having the same issue. I have a crank, no start. Long story short... After this problem occurred, I checked fuses, battery/ terminals, replaced spark plugs/ cables, upgraded to a BBK fuel pump and replaced fuel filter. Then even added a new coil pack and CCRM. Problem still occurs. I have tried disconnecting the MAF sensor and car still wont start. I looked for the ground wire on the CCRM, can't find it.. lots of black grounds all attached to the frame around battery and one on passenger side but none have a "white stripe". I did notice there was an "extra" wire harness connecter hanging by the CCRM plug but no wire loop in sight to attach it to?? Currently I am getting a constant theft light flashing that does not go off after the 3 sec's and my odometer is (-------) lined out. So I know it has something to do with the PCM or PATS system. I tried to push my key inward and jiggle it while cranking out of efforts to cross the ignition off my list. I attached my OBD2 scanner and it said "NO LINK". Can anyone point me to where the Radiator Core is... cuz I keep reading it will help me find my ground to the PCM or CCRM?? Oh and I tried to reset the PATS by the unlock, lock... key/ phob method and no results.
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How to trouble shoot basic PCM power 1999-2004.

Confirm all fuses in the engine bay and driver's kick panel are good. DOUBLE check the grounds around the radiator core support to be sure clean and tight. Double check the battery terminals are clean and tight.

Test for key on power in and out of fuse F2.34, F2.2, and F2.8 using a KNOWN good ground.

IF there is NO POWER into fuse F2.34 THEN suspect an ignition switch problem. The ignition switch can be changed and does not require PATS to be reprogrammed.

IF there is NO power into fuse F2.2 and F2.8 THEN suspect a CCRM problem.

1999-2004 BJB CJB fuse panel layout:
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ml#post2669271

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.

Last edited by wmburns; 02-03-2018 at 04:58 PM.
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i am having the same issue, my 2001 ford mustang gt has a new battery, all fuses are good, but when i try to start it , it acts as if there is not enough power. i took one of the spark plugs out and i smelled gasoline on the spark plugs
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