Need help on drain of battery on 2001 Ford Mustang - Ford Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
david7147's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: SALEM
Posts: 6
 
Need help on drain of battery on 2001 Ford Mustang

Hello all,

Have been a faithful Mustang owner since 2004 and have a 2001 Ford Mustang GT (50,000 miles) with a drain on battery after car is shut off.

I have replaced the following now with no good results.

All new parts including labor:

Battery $80
Complete Wiring Harness $420 (positive and negative cables, and all wires leading to starter, battery, alternator, fuse box etc.)
Alternator $440
Starter Motor $540

Fuse box has been checked out, and any possible shorts with no results.

Any ideas? After all that work listed above, the only way to start the car is to jump start it after sitting only 1 1/2 days went from a fully charged battery to a dead battery.

I am at my wits end on this one.

Some people have suggested a kill switch for the battery. The problem with that is I was told by more than one mechanic that will mess up the computer component inside the car which will be expensive to fix. This being if I keep switching the switch on and off cancelling out the drain of the battery but resetting the computer each time I do this.

Is there any thing I am missing?

david7147 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013
Banned
4.6L Member
 
2Manystangs's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Location: Tampa
Posts: 12,438
 
yeah it's pretty frickin' common
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ery-drain.html
hope this helps

2Manystangs is offline  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
4.6L Member
 
SoCal2V's Avatar
 
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
Posts: 8,705
               
If the above doesn't provide a solution, get a voltmeter w/ ampprobe attachment.

Place ampprobe around/over positive battery cable, observe current draw reading (obviously everything you know of is turned off, doors are shut, key is not in switch, etc). Actually, you may need to pull the lamp out of the dome light for the next step, since unless you are very very small and can fit on the floorboard beneath the steering wheel then you will be performing said step with the door open.

One at a time, remove and replace fuses until the current draw reading goes away. If you pull a fuse and current draw reading drops but does not completely go away, take note of which fuse and leave it out for the time being and continue - it may be more than one circuit that is causing the draw. When you find which fuse or fuses is responsible for the draw then post back with whatever info you've gathered and we can go from there.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
SoCal2V is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
david7147's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: SALEM
Posts: 6
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Manystangs View Post
yeah it's pretty frickin' common
https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ery-drain.html
hope this helps
Thanks for the advice. I will look into that. Another thing is I have some stuck cd's in the radio/cd player. But I leave radio off all the time. Could that still drain the battery?

Could a shorted out speaker drain the battery, even though the radio is not on?
david7147 is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-24-2013
Apprentice
 
guy tino's Avatar
 
Joined: Jul 2012
Location: daytona
Posts: 245
 
i had a mach system rear amp go bad and would not shut off , it was the cause of my drain. unplug both amps and see if it stops the drain.good luck

98 lx converted to 98 gt wires with rebuilt 32 valve teskid cobra motor with vortech v-2 with cool charge, ford imrc deletes, ford racing shorty headers,2.5" catless h pipe with flowmaster 60 series muflers and full cat back, coil on plug, steda timming adjuster,diablo tunner, smog deleted,rebuilt 4r70w trany built with reprograming kit,optional manual valve body & trans break ,updated ford parts, 3000 stall converter,3:73 gears or 4:10,8.8 or 9" optional rear, 6 point cage, cobra breaks,&more
guy tino is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-25-2013 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
david7147's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: SALEM
Posts: 6
 
Thank you all. The place i had all the work done at is going to have their electrical specialist find and correct the problem or problems at no extra charge to me. I will have them look at the visor lights, fuses, speakers, radio/CD player and all other possible issues. I will post later this week what they find and what solution so another fellow Mustang holder can avoid the same problems.
david7147 is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 03-31-2013 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
david7147's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: SALEM
Posts: 6
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by david7147 View Post
Thank you all. The place i had all the work done at is going to have their electrical specialist find and correct the problem or problems at no extra charge to me. I will have them look at the visor lights, fuses, speakers, radio/CD player and all other possible issues. I will post later this week what they find and what solution so another fellow Mustang holder can avoid the same problems.
Ok they found the drain. The standard speakers sitting on the doors (right and left) apparently got wet during a storm when doors were opened up for a few moments, and shorted themselves out causing an open circuit all the time. I had them disconnect the radio and speakers and walla no drain on battery now.

They did check out all the other things in electrical and everything else checked out great. I have since let it sit for 2 days at a time and she started up great.
david7147 is offline  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 04-01-2013
PONY Member
4.6L Member
 
Hood Time's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2012
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 271
 
That was a lot of money you spent. Hopefully you actually needed some of those replacements.

Nothing better than factory smooth...
Hood Time is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-09-2013
Rookie
 
fullmonte60's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2013
Location: Chesapeake
Posts: 2
 
i'm living it now...I've noticed is when the battery is low but enough to start is the gauge on the dash will be between low and 1/2 way (l) instead of high and 1/2 way (r). then it seems once the charge gets strong enough it kicks over to the right and I hear almost a slight whine or whistle. I've changed the alt. as well and it behaved the same with either. BTW, I have an optima yellow top, made for numerous charge cycles...lol. it does have an aftermarket Kenwood head unit with a +5VDC voltage regulator so the factory amps don't making the wheeeeeeuuuuuuuu sound when you turn the key on. the mach amps require 5 +VDC input. I wanted to hook the multimeter in line and try fuse removal but the alarm goes into panic mode and I can't disable...ugh. fuse #9 was already gone. I need to get some of that size so I'll put one in and see what happens...lol. thanks.
__________________

2007 Grabber Orange 4.0/5 Spd
-FRPP duals w/GTBs, FRPP CAK, Shaftmasters d/s, BBK 70mm tb, SS headers;17" Bullitts, 3dcarbon grill, CDC seqs, SH rear panel, Roush hood scoop, DG window scoops, GT500 pedals, MG mirror covers;GT f&r sways, FRPP M-2300-D brake upgrade, UMI subs, Steeda g-trac, SMR stb, CHE lcas, J&M panhard
2000 Laser Red GT Vert 4.6/Auto
-Flows, C&L 80mm CAK, Hypertech, Accel, FRPP alum d/s, March UDPs
fullmonte60 is offline  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 02-04-2014 Thread Starter
Rookie
 
david7147's Avatar
 
Joined: Mar 2013
Location: SALEM
Posts: 6
 
Help again please

Quote:
Originally Posted by david7147 View Post
Ok they found the drain. The standard speakers sitting on the doors (right and left) apparently got wet during a storm when doors were opened up for a few moments, and shorted themselves out causing an open circuit all the time. I had them disconnect the radio and speakers and walla no drain on battery now.

They did check out all the other things in electrical and everything else checked out great. I have since let it sit for 2 days at a time and she started up great.
Ok this is getting weird.

A worse problem happened now.

When I am driving, happened twice now in a 2 month period, at night the dash lights dimmed out totally and the headlights and back lights all went off leaving me in the dark driving.

Have checked battery, alternator, fuses, any corrosion , water, around under hood fuse box, and under dash fuse box and everything is coming up clean.

Mileage is now 55000 on my 2001 Form Mustang GT. Have also replaced the main belt.

Any ideas?

Thank you. Need an answer by tomorrow.
david7147 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1