What are my options? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #16 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TigerSN95guy View Post
oh hey!

our sponsor Modular Racing just posted soemthing about a forged rotating assembly for only $900!! this is actually perfect timing for you! that's only $120 more than what i found on summit for 200% better parts! if you got the money now, i would jump all over that!
Sweet I'll have to look into that. Thanks for lookin out.

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post #17 of 23 (permalink) Old 11-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TigerSN95guy View Post
oh hey!

our sponsor Modular Racing just posted soemthing about a forged rotating assembly for only $900!! this is actually perfect timing for you! that's only $120 more than what i found on summit for 200% better parts! if you got the money now, i would jump all over that!
You wouldn't happen to have a link to that would you? I've searched for it a bit, but I'm not having any luck finding it.

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You wouldn't happen to have a link to that would you? I've searched for it a bit, but I'm not having any luck finding it.
I think this is what he is talking about:

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ing-899-a.html

This thread was updated 6 days ago...But it doesnt look like it comes with a crankshaft...only rods, pistons, and rings. Maybe it assumes the crankshaft...idk, I would call them.

Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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To add to the above, MMR makes good stuff. If you buy a new oil pump though from what I've heard the best way to go is stay with oem/Ford - do your homework on that though.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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JonR,
If the crank didn't get torn up already and the bearings are all in place, he shouldn't need a crank unless he plans on boosting it in the near future. I was under the assumption this is a budget build, but you might as well get the best bang for your buck! My father has a 460 bored/stroked to a 514cid pushing like 800ft/lb torque on the factory crankshaft... I don't think there is a problem before boost... Just my two cents

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JonR,
If the crank didn't get torn up already and the bearings are all in place, he shouldn't need a crank unless he plans on boosting it in the near future. I was under the assumption this is a budget build, but you might as well get the best bang for your buck! My father has a 460 bored/stroked to a 514cid pushing like 800ft/lb torque on the factory crankshaft... I don't think there is a problem before boost... Just my two cents

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Good point. I wasn't saying he shouldn't look into it that kit but it all depends on what's causing his rod knock. Most likely he can re-use his crank and get it re-grinded and rebalanced with the new rods and pistons.

His crank is forged already (i think the 98 Cobras came with a forged crankshaft) so it would hold up to mild boost fairly well.


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Matthew 26:52-54 / Go Pack Go!

1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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Even the cast iron crank on these engines will hold to 500+rwhp no problem, so like stated above as long as OP's crank isn't worn or damaged beyond repair by machining then it should be fine.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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Hi, you mentioned the shop you go consider home for your car, that are familiar with Mustangs engines and the like. I would consider the
$1600. that they qouted you. Of course clarify the warranty and keep the relationship. A good shop is hard to find for your car.
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