1997 4.6 gt starts but stalls out? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013 Thread Starter
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1997 4.6 gt starts but stalls out?

Ok so im new to the site and new to owning mustangs ive had a few other cars but all were 4cyl so im moving up in the world I bought a 1997 mustang gt 5 speed with 170k i got it for cheap cause my friend didnt have the money to get it out of inpound. he hit a pole driving through a parking lot, not to bad needs a quarter panel and head light. but heres where the problem comes in i cant get it to stay running it starts but only for 3-5 seconds... i know about the inertia switch and thats not it i hear the pump come on and yes it does have gas. the car ran just fine before the accident. it is getting cold here in New England but that shouldnt be an issuse like i said it starts.

I thought i should also mention that while yes i am young and dont have a proper education in automotive i have done quite a bit of work on cars everything from head gaskets with warped heads to full engine rebuilds but as i said before they were all on 4 cylinders so any info or advice would be greatly appreciated thanks in advance.

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013
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Does it stay running if you give it some throttle?

If so I would first look for any vacuum leaks.

Following that I would suspect a faulty IAC (idle air control) valve. As far as replacements go, I have heard that the aftermarket ones like AutoZone etc. have are hit and miss, best to go with oem Motorcraft on that part.



2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gage311 View Post
needs a quarter panel and head light.
At least it's 1 of the front panels, not the back since they're welded to the car and almost impossible to change, unlike the front that are much "easier" to simply replace.

At least that's what I've heard.

Not sure about your other problem, sorry.

2004 F-250 V10 Crew Cab with 6 inch lift

1996 Mustang GT V8

1995 Mercury Sable
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-11-2013
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Runs for 3-5 seconds and then quits. The things I can think of are:
  • Fuel starvation. Low fuel pressure or fuel pump not supplying enough fuel
  • after market alarm
  • PCM switching from "open loop" to "closed loop".

Since you can hear the fuel pump run, let's assume it's OK (good idea to check the fuel filter).

IMO based on the reported symptom you should look for things that can go wrong when switching from open loop to closed loop. For example:
  • Intake or exhaust leak
  • problems with the O2 sensors
  • problems with the MAF reporting bad values
  • IAC valve. Either bad or disconnected mechanically or electrically.

Since the car has been in a wreck, my vote is to look at the MAF and intake tube for leaks. Especially if the car was hit on the right side.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick replys and no it wont stay running if i hit the gas it does rev up a bit more but still stalls in the 3-5 sec window. unfortunately its parked at a friends house ill have to wait till i can get a ride over there to try your suggestions. i know that it does have an alarm atho im not sure if its aftermarket and i dont have the key fob for it ( guy i got it form lost his keys a couple weeks prior but never had a problem). im going to say it may have to do with the intake it does have a real cold air intake in the fender that got hit didnt look bad at first glance but ill have to check. the filter was the only thing that got squished the rest of the piping was just fine.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-12-2013
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Does the Check Engine light stay on after you start it? If so, scan for codes and post the results here.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013 Thread Starter
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ok so im an idiot i was using the worng key the whole time(who has a key made just for the doors?) anyway car ran great till i got to my friends house where he is building one hell of a foxbody. on the way home from there the car started bucking like crazy the rpms would go up and down but it didnt stall. giving gas did nothing either like nothing at all like i wasnt even on it. about half way home it settled out and ran fine till 2500 rpm then it would do it again. the check engine light would also come on and off like it was going with the bucking. luckily i had my scanner still plugged in (it bluetooths to my phone not the best but still cool and gives alot of info) so these are the codes that popped

P00<D -powertrain
B2TAE - Body
ROR ?
P06<D - powertrain
P08<D - powertrain

i did some research and found a guy with the same codes but he has a v6 auto and it idles rough where as mine idles fine. its kind of an old thread i posted there anyway but he didnt have a solution and the posts just stop but heres the link

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...bad-pcm-2.html
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013 Thread Starter
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i should add to the 2500 rpm deal it starts fine in first, reach 2500 it bucks, i shift, it back fires, runs fine till 2500 again. it does this in all gears. i didnt try this in rev nor did i got over 2500 rpm in 5th
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-20-2013
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Something's not jiving with your scanner, none of those codes make any sense. For powertrain (engine) related dtc's, the format should be "P" followed by 3 digits. For the 3 digits, numbers ranging from 001-1000 are universal and carry the same definition regardless of the vehicle manufacturer. Anything numerically higher than 1000 is a manufacturer specific dtc. When you are able to retrieve a properly formatted code, there is a sticky thread here in the 4.6 Tech section up toward the top of the page, "List of trouble codes" or something like that, you can look up the definition of the code. Another helpful resource is OBD-Codes OBD-II Trouble Codes - DTC Codes Car Repair, it will give definition and possible/likely causes.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013 Thread Starter
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That's what I thought too I'll swap the plugs and oil and try again
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