grind into 3rd gear - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
00mustang95
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grind into 3rd gear

my 2002 mustang gt grinds into third gear only at high rpm and when shifting fast. i can shift fast at normal speeds and it will not grind. the only way to shift into third at high rpm without it grinding is to shift a bit slower. Is it the synchros or can it be something else.I also have a short throw so would replacing the shifter change anything.

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
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More than likely the synchronizers..

How's the fluid?


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
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Originally Posted by 00mustang95 View Post
my 2002 mustang gt grinds into third gear only at high rpm and when shifting fast. i can shift fast at normal speeds and it will not grind. the only way to shift into third at high rpm without it grinding is to shift a bit slower. Is it the synchros or can it be something else.I also have a short throw so would replacing the shifter change anything.
It is the synchro ring. If you nip it in the bud you can get away with just new rings. After it has been scraping a while (metal to metal) the synchro hub itself will need to be replaced and even possibly the gear as well.

Typically, third is the first spot to show the wear, but any can go.

Fluid:
I strongly recommend sticking to one of these three: Mercon-V, Mobil-1 Synthetic, GM Synchromesh (or Pennzoil equivalent).

The official fluid is the Mercon-V. I understand Tremec developed and tested the TR3650 using the Mobil-1, and Tremec support has recently been recommending Synchromesh. (Not to be confused with RP Synchromax which is not the same)

Fluid Level:
For an 01-04 TR3650 the fluid should be 3/4 inch below the fill plug per a Ford TSB. This is to reduce drag caused by the excess fluid on the gears. Primarily this addresses a tendency to scrape when the transmission is cold.

The fill plugs were lowered in the redesigned 2005 TR3650 so this does not apply to the newer models.

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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
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Originally Posted by bullitt 736 View Post
More than likely the synchronizers..

How's the fluid?


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i havent checked yet i will drain it and see
post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
00mustang95
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Originally Posted by SPeace-ATL View Post
It is the synchro ring. If you nip it in the bud you can get away with just new rings. After it has been scraping a while (metal to metal) the synchro hub itself will need to be replaced and even possibly the gear as well.

Typically, third is the first spot to show the wear, but any can go.

Fluid:
I strongly recommend sticking to one of these three: Mercon-V, Mobil-1 Synthetic, GM Synchromesh (or Pennzoil equivalent).

The official fluid is the Mercon-V. I understand Tremec developed and tested the TR3650 using the Mobil-1, and Tremec support has recently been recommending Synchromesh. (Not to be confused with RP Synchromax which is not the same)

Fluid Level:
For an 01-04 TR3650 the fluid should be 3/4 inch below the fill plug per a Ford TSB. This is to reduce drag caused by the excess fluid on the gears. Primarily this addresses a tendency to scrape when the transmission is cold.

The fill plugs were lowered in the redesigned 2005 TR3650 so this does not apply to the newer models.

thanks i need to do the clutch on the car anyway which i will be doing myself. how much would you expect a shop to charge for this repair if i take off the tranny myself.
post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
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thanks i need to do the clutch on the car anyway which i will be doing myself. how much would you expect a shop to charge for this repair if i take off the tranny myself.
The tough thing is that to get even the third gear synchro ring out you have to open the front and the tail and remove the main shafts.

The only thing not disassembled would be the remainder of the main shaft and that is required to get to the first and second gear rings.

I don't know any shop that would want to just change the third gear ring and not inspect everything while it is apart.

I suggest getting a full set of synchro rings, the updated second gear, updated 1-2 synchro hub, etc while it is apart.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 11-21-2013
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Originally Posted by SPeace-ATL View Post
The tough thing is that to get even the third gear synchro ring out you have to open the front and the tail and remove the main shafts.

The only thing not disassembled would be the remainder of the main shaft and that is required to get to the first and second gear rings.

I don't know any shop that would want to just change the third gear ring and not inspect everything while it is apart.

I suggest getting a full set of synchro rings, the updated second gear, updated 1-2 synchro hub, etc while it is apart.
alright thanks ill make sure they do that i dont want to replace the third and then blow another when i could have got it all done at once.
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