03 Gt dead battery - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013 Thread Starter
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03 Gt dead battery

On my 03 gt that i finished a couple of months ago(V6toGTswap).2 weeks i went to go to the store and the battery was dead-old battery,so i bought a new one=Autozone Platinum,their Optima copy.It done fine for about a week and then again,dead battery.So after running some test,figured alt.was bad.Got new alt.charging system passed,running great,no problems.Went out yesterday,dead battery. I did add a Bama tune and recently re-tuned.Going to check it out today-any ideas would be great.Seems to be a slow drain-i only drive this car 1-2 times per week.



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Last edited by heavy metal; 11-29-2013 at 10:19 AM. Reason: more info
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013
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On my 03 gt that i finished a couple of months ago(V6toGTswap).2 weeks i went to go to the store and the battery was dead-old battery,so i bought a new one=Autozone Platinum,their Optima copy.It done fine for about a week and then again,dead battery.So after running some test,figured alt.was bad.Got new alt.charging system passed,running great,no problems.Went out yesterday,dead battery. I did add a Bama tune and recently re-tuned.Going to check it out today-any ideas would be great.Seems to be a slow drain-i only drive this car 1-2 times per week.
heavy metal,

Sounds like you have some excessive battery drain while the engine is off. What kind of aftermarket electronics are mounted on or within the car? Anything that should be running on a relay instead or basic wiring?

You would be surprised all that it takes to drain a battery completely dead when the engine is shut off. Only a few plugged in electronics or one electronic that requires a heavy load!

Shane


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013 Thread Starter
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I have a double din in it,but i used the right adapter plug set for it.I have interior and underglow lights,thay are on toggle switches.Backup camera wired into lights.I have double-double checked and i left nothing on.....


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-29-2013
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Do you have an ampprobe dmm? Hook it around the "+" cable with everything shut off so you can verify the drain. Then, one at a time, remove and replace fuses, checking the reading on your dmm each time. When it drops to "0", then there's your faulty circuit and you can go from there. Remove the dome lamp while you're going through this process so that you're only observing the drain from the faulty circuit.


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
Do you have an ampprobe dmm? Hook it around the "+" cable with everything shut off so you can verify the drain. Then, one at a time, remove and replace fuses, checking the reading on your dmm each time. When it drops to "0", then there's your faulty circuit and you can go from there. Remove the dome lamp while you're going through this process so that you're only observing the drain from the faulty circuit.
This method i have done before,thanks for reminding me.I will try to do it today and see what i find. Interior light messed up on me about a week after i finished the car,it would not go off,so i took out the bulb.Yall think that circuit could be the problem?


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Last edited by heavy metal; 11-30-2013 at 07:37 AM. Reason: more info
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013
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Interior light messed up on me about a week after i finished the car,it would not go off,so i took out the bulb.Yall think that circuit could be the problem?
For sure sounds like a problem, but if the bulb isn't there to create a draw I don't think it's the problem.


2001 GT Convertible
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All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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I did not have a amp probe-multimeter did not come with it.So i unhooked the neg. cable and put my multimeter leads on the battery neg. and the neg. cable-showed 11.64 volts-went through and undone every fuse one by one and seen no difference in volts.I am stumped here.So i installed a battery shut-off switch for now until i figure it out.


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Last edited by heavy metal; 11-30-2013 at 04:25 PM. Reason: smiley problem
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013
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That sucks. If you have one around, I would use a battery tender instead of a cut-off so you don't have to deal with everything resetting (especially KAM) all the time.

And would be difficult to detect the bad circuit when observing voltage. When a circuit is connected to a power source (battery in this case), voltage will (or should) remain constant - like if you check for power at a taillamp bulb socket and observe 12.6V, and then install the bulb, turn it on and then backprobe the socket you would still see the same 12.6V. But current (amperage) on the other hand, would only be present with the bulb installed and turned on.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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Going to check on getting a amp probe attachment for my multimeter.I used a heavy duty race car style cut-off switch and mounted it outside hidden-easy to get to.


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