Head gasket repair? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013 Thread Starter
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Head gasket repair?

Just bought a 03 gt Vert, head gasket is blown but engine still runs and sounds fine. I knew the previous owner and they said it didn't overheat and the vehicle cut off after the intake blew. Intake was replaced thinking that was it. It does have coolant in the oil. 160k miles on the engine. Has anyone tried Steel seal(or any other seal treatment) to maybe buy a little time on the engine or should I go ahead and tear into it and replace the gaskets. Got a good deal on the car for 1k but would be nice to save up for a good used engine and drive it for a short period of time. What you think?

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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 11-30-2013
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Well if you can afford to replace the gasket that is by far the best thing you can do to try and keep that engine alive and well, that is to say if it hasn't already received a lot of water damage.

Anyways i have personally dealt with blown gaskets a lot and theres a product you can buy for around 20$.. i forget the name but it's a green container with some purple in there. ill come back and post it later by tomorrow and let you know.

The instructions are quite a few and specific. It worked wonders on my gt. used it 2 about two years ago and haven't needed to do anything else on it since but, but i barely had oil in the water, no water in engine. i caught it when it was young.

If you wish to do this i suggest you flush the engine oil with some seafoam for about 25 miles or so then run your block sealing liquid procedure, then after following all directions thoroughly change out the old oil with new and watch your oil and coolant like a hawk on a squirrel afterwards.

As a tip i would stay away from block sealants/gasket repair liquids that require you leave them in your cooling system as you drive around. Personal experience says they are not so effective. Use those that have to be run for 15-30 mins then have you flush out your cooling system and leave it airing out for at least 12 hrs. or so. good luck.


His -1996 GT- Steeda underdrive pulleys, SR CAI, SR intake spacer, SR adjustable clutch kit, SPEC stage 1 clutch, RAM steel billet flywheel,magnaflow cat back with pipes cut off after muffles( love the sound), Tokhico rear shocks, Tokhico front struts, Smoked Cobra style headlights & white tail lights for good looks.- nickname = Rolling Thunder

Hers - 1998 v6 convertible - dual exhaust, SR CAI nickname = sexy thang
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh3stang View Post
Just bought a 03 gt Vert, head gasket is blown but engine still runs and sounds fine. I knew the previous owner and they said it didn't overheat and the vehicle cut off after the intake blew. Intake was replaced thinking that was it. It does have coolant in the oil. 160k miles on the engine. Has anyone tried Steel seal(or any other seal treatment) to maybe buy a little time on the engine or should I go ahead and tear into it and replace the gaskets. Got a good deal on the car for 1k but would be nice to save up for a good used engine and drive it for a short period of time. What you think?
I would just replace the gasket if you are mechanically inclined enough to tear the engine down.. The sealers are kinda hit and miss.. May as well do it right the first time and put the new gasket on. Replacing the whole engine is pretty expensive and i see you got it for a grand but 160k miles isn't a crap load and worth scrapping the engine over. Unless the water damage is bad.

It's all for the love of hot roddin'!!

Crystal White 1995 GT Convertible, TFS Twisted Wedge 170's, Steeda 19 cam, Trickflow 1.7 Rollers, Tmoss ported explorer lower, PowerDyne Blower @ 7psi, AMK Racing Products Shorty Headers, Catted X-Pipe to Flow Master 40's, COBRA T-5 With MGW Short Throw 365rwhp 351rwtq

91' Coupe 4 banger
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Gearbox94 View Post
I would just replace the gasket if you are mechanically inclined enough to tear the engine down.. The sealers are kinda hit and miss.. May as well do it right the first time and put the new gasket on. Replacing the whole engine is pretty expensive and i see you got it for a grand but 160k miles isn't a crap load and worth scrapping the engine over. Unless the water damage is bad.
I'm siding with going ahead and breaking down the engine. I guess I'm in a little rush to get it on the road so I can drive it, but might as well do it to last. What should I do in the mean time to get the muddy mess out of the block(the water and oil) so it doesn't cause more issues before I get it taken apart? Been sitting in there a couple weeks right now. Will probably be a few more weeks before I can put it back together but could start the disassembling.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013
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Flush the system out. I have rinsed out engines with water in the crank using seafoam and got excellent results.Therefore i recommend seafoam.

Just add some to the crank and let it idle for a while say 20 mins. and give it some revs every once in a while. then when its all cool drain it All away. seafoam can be used in your fuel system to take care of moisture that is present there. it can also be safely added to the crankcase for the specific purpose of flushing out the system. It's a product that works great and is safe to use. search videos about it on YouTube if your not convinced enough.

His -1996 GT- Steeda underdrive pulleys, SR CAI, SR intake spacer, SR adjustable clutch kit, SPEC stage 1 clutch, RAM steel billet flywheel,magnaflow cat back with pipes cut off after muffles( love the sound), Tokhico rear shocks, Tokhico front struts, Smoked Cobra style headlights & white tail lights for good looks.- nickname = Rolling Thunder

Hers - 1998 v6 convertible - dual exhaust, SR CAI nickname = sexy thang
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013
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Originally Posted by oh3stang View Post
I'm siding with going ahead and breaking down the engine. I guess I'm in a little rush to get it on the road so I can drive it, but might as well do it to last. What should I do in the mean time to get the muddy mess out of the block(the water and oil) so it doesn't cause more issues before I get it taken apart? Been sitting in there a couple weeks right now. Will probably be a few more weeks before I can put it back together but could start the disassembling.
depending on how mucky the oil is you might be able to drain it and fill with new oil and run it for a short time and repeat the procedure until it all comes out.. But if it's a thick goopy mess the oil pan might need to come off to get all the crap out.. Of do like the guy above suggested, pour some seafoam in. But i would definitely drain the oil that's in it now before staring it again..

It's all for the love of hot roddin'!!

Crystal White 1995 GT Convertible, TFS Twisted Wedge 170's, Steeda 19 cam, Trickflow 1.7 Rollers, Tmoss ported explorer lower, PowerDyne Blower @ 7psi, AMK Racing Products Shorty Headers, Catted X-Pipe to Flow Master 40's, COBRA T-5 With MGW Short Throw 365rwhp 351rwtq

91' Coupe 4 banger
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-01-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh3stang View Post
I'm siding with going ahead and breaking down the engine. I guess I'm in a little rush to get it on the road so I can drive it, but might as well do it to last. What should I do in the mean time to get the muddy mess out of the block(the water and oil) so it doesn't cause more issues before I get it taken apart? Been sitting in there a couple weeks right now. Will probably be a few more weeks before I can put it back together but could start the disassembling.
To keep it safely stored until you do a tear down I'd recommend that you drain the oil pan completely along with the cooling system. Then put in 6 quarts of regular engine oil, start the engine and let it run for no more than 30 seconds. This will coat the bearings and everything with fresh oil and keep internal corrosion from occurring, or at least from getting worse.

I commend you for being proactive with this. Hopefully no real damage has been done and you have a nice clean disassembly/ reassemby to look forward to without incurring a big parts bill.

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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the information, I plan to dive in this week to try the flush and prayfully I can save it. I'll post how it goes. I knew when I bought it worse case is an engine. For a thousand dollar car I couldn't go wrong. The rest of the car is in great shape.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-04-2013
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(a thousand dollar car I couldn't go wrong. The rest of the car is in great shape).
Here is my two cents:
The engine was definitely damaged, started with headgasket, blown
intake. Major one water disturbed the lubrication system. Consider a good investment when you finish putting it back together (no short cuts).
Find friends that can help: Tear the engine apart, cylinder heads, block to machine shop for cracks. It will be a slow process unless you have $$$ to get it done. Doing it with friends, accomplishment
you can look back (as Mustang expert). Forum friends will be glad to help, we are here for aggressive people like you. (goodluck)
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 12-05-2013 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by salabellera View Post
(a thousand dollar car I couldn't go wrong. The rest of the car is in great shape).
Here is my two cents:
The engine was definitely damaged, started with headgasket, blown
intake. Major one water disturbed the lubrication system. Consider a good investment when you finish putting it back together (no short cuts).
Find friends that can help: Tear the engine apart, cylinder heads, block to machine shop for cracks. It will be a slow process unless you have $$$ to get it done. Doing it with friends, accomplishment
you can look back (as Mustang expert). Forum friends will be glad to help, we are here for aggressive people like you. (goodluck)

Thanks for the info, are there any get togethers around LA(clubs)? I'm 2 months new to CA and this is my second Mustang I've owned. Mostly been a old pre 70's car guy.
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