[Guest]

Is that little tunnel in the MAF the sample tube?? I am thinking about porting my MAF. I am going to the junkyard on Saturday to get some parts out of like a 97 mustang. I will make sure i get a MAF so i can practice. Any suggestions on porting my MAF? Should i do it? Or not? Thanks

 

[Emery]

yeah....the tube is the tunnel part that the resistor is in. I did it to my car years ago and only have felt detonation after running 5 tankfulls of 87. On 93 it never happens.

I have seen various opinions on this site in regards to the mod.....from yeah it works great (like my experience), nothing good or bad noticed, to makes my car run like crap.

Interesting to me....tried to survey the people who had done it and get their altitiudes....I (and another who liked the mod) lived in costal states at almost sea level. It seemed that the people that complained about it lived in higher altitude states......dunno if 5000 feet makes that much of difference to air density but you have to bake cakes differently at 3500+ feet so it must.

Couldnt get answers and dont know if they just didnt reset their puter after the mod. You are approachin it right....get another just in case. I like my stock 85mm MAF. Let us know about your experiences.......get a hacksaw and a dremel with plenty of barrel sanders and have fun. Takes about 2-3 hours.

 

[Guest]

Well i live in WA around the puget sound area. I think i will get a good working MAF and port it and then port mine and take the best of the two. What are some of the effects of porting your MAF?? HOw much hp will i gain? I plan to buy a CAI soon if thats makes a difference or not. THanks for the info. Bye

 

[jonastang4.6GT]

i ahve done this project before, and i did noi feel a difference at all. In fact i dont even know what the purpose was of it, got bored one day and did it

I moght be able to find instructions to do this project so hang tight

 

[jonastang4.6GT]

i can not find the post where i pu tthe link in to help you cut the center post. SORRY

 

[onegundoc]

A friend of mine cut out the center post and the screen and his car ran like sh*t! He ended up getting the C&L mass air kit and loved it. He lived in the puget sound area too, Whidby Island to be exact. I would recomend just getting the C&L kit.

 

[jonastang4.6GT]

again i have removed the post, NOT the screen and i have no problem with my car (knock on wood) i also line in CHICAGO.

 

[Emery]

to reinforce what JON said DO NOT REMOVE THE SCREEN you will screw it up. THe screen redirects and aligns the airflow that comes out of the filter at numerous different angles.

p.s. the article I followed is:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/51.shtml

 

[onegundoc]

So your saying the screen is only needed with the stock mass air meter?

I don't have a screen in my C&L kit and my car runs like a top!

I thought the screen was for debri that may get in there.

 

[Guest]

Removing the center post on the Maf adds about 150-200 cfm thru your intake tract. 96-98 cars ran rich from the factory so generally leaning out the a/f is worth some power but not much. I did this mod on my 96 GT and removed the screen also, the car never had any problems with it. BUT your maf is calibrated to measure your air flow and match its readings with the computer, so it knows how much fuel to add. By removing the post you are ruinning that calibration and continuously leaning out your A/F ratio. I would just spend the cash on the properly engineered meter like the C&L.

 

[96redhotgt]

I ported the MAF sensor yesterday (by removing the post), the screen had already been removed with no problems. I also ported the upper intake plenum (huge mold lines at seams on the inside mostly. When I started the engine ( EEC had been reset by battery being disconnected), I had a very high idle which I expected until the EEC recalibrated but it stayed very high until it went into closed loop, then stayed at about 1100 rpm's. Throttle was very sensitive, MIL on, apparently is running very lean. I drove it and it ran OK but was obviously too lean because it ran too hot even though it was only about 55 degrees outside. (180 thermostat). I put the air silencer back on (the air noise was much higher after porting) thinking that might help.
Any ideas?

 

[96redhotgt]

I forgot to mention that I took out the big bleed screw on the bottom fwd side of the throttle body and am not entirely sure how many turns it made coming out. Does anyone know what it does? It's almost impossible to access or adjust when the throttle body is installed.

 

[96redhotgt]

OK, I got it. It was the vacuum bleed screw on the throttle body next to the TPS. I had taken it out and started turning it before I remembered to count the turns. I guess what happened is it was getting too much air from the EGR vacuum regulator because I just started closing it until the idle came down and I did not get a MIL again. I drove it and it definitely pulls stronger to 5000 rpm and will go higher much quicker than before. The difference was probably the plenum. That was one of the sloppiest castings I've ever seen. Two pieces fused together somehow.

 

[engineer76]

That post is from 2002...
Anyway, Porting a MAF most likely subjects to fail!!!

Reason:
Air flow is a very complicated thing in a MAF. As soon as the porting changes air flow, you will see diffrent readings. Porting a MAF is like grinding a micrometer to make it work for measuring a larger part than what it was designed for.

THE MAF IS A MEASURING UNIT, DONT SCREW AROUND WITH IT

Just a little side Information:
MAF get engineered and then the "maps" in the cars ECU gets adjusted to the MAFS READINGS. All kind of porting work done to a MAF that DOES affect air flow will most likely read out false information in regards to the ECU's maps - the motor runs to lean or to rich.
Porting work that does not positively affect air flow is not worth changes.

So if your your motor is modded and the MAF would be the restriction, stick with a NEW, LARGER MAF and adapt your ECU to this MAF.