96 mustang gt ticking? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-27-2014 Thread Starter
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96 mustang gt ticking?

so ill start out saying this is my first post. me and my dad are trying to get his 96 stang running right after it was stolen (for the third time). its got over 450,000 miles and on its 3rd motor with about 50,000 miles on it. It was running pretty rough when we first started up after about a year, but we changed the filter and oil which was black but didn't look like antifreeze in it (great), new air filter which was disgusting, new thermostat, new pcv sensor, and it sounded better but had a misfire. we looked at the coil pack and it had a crack in it where the plug goes in (not the plug wires but the plug on the side) so we moved it back into place and super glued it to where there is no misfire anymore so it is fixed till we have time to get another one. we drained the antifreeze and it was brown so we are guessing it was rust since there was no white smoke from exhaust, no bubbles in antifreeze while in radiator from an air leak from a leak in the head, no over heating, and no smoke coming from radiator. so we flushed it out using a flushing kit till the water was clear and antifreeze has stayed a bright green color. so it was running great until we changed plugs (which all had a great color on them) and it started ticking from the passengers side valve cover (pretty sure its not a rod knock because you would here it throughout the engine correct me if im wrong) so we took the plugs out just to make sure one didn't get thrown through the head like ive heard happens to 4.6s and they all came out good and went back in good. we di have a problem putting the front most plug wire onto the plug and it still never clicked into place like the others but it is seated better than the other so could this have something to do with it. so im wondering what this could be. sorry for the book ive wrote but i thought it would be easier to troubleshoot if you know what weve done. ive also just read that the oil restrictors could be clogged up and oil isn't getting to the valve cover so how would I go about check that out. any help is appreciated

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014 Thread Starter
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96 mustang tick - YouTube
this the sound its making

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014
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Not being there listening to it in person makes it hard to determine. There is some definite knocking/ticking going on. Whether it is a rod knock or valvetrain I'm not confident enough to say....

Is it constant or does the frequency change with RPM? How does it sound when the engine begins to warm up? Is it only on cold starts?

EDIT: After listening to it again, are you confident that it is not an exhaust leak...?

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-28-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonR2006 View Post
Not being there listening to it in person makes it hard to determine. There is some definite knocking/ticking going on. Whether it is a rod knock or valvetrain I'm not confident enough to say....

Is it constant or does the frequency change with RPM? How does it sound when the engine begins to warm up? Is it only on cold starts?

EDIT: After listening to it again, are you confident that it is not an exhaust leak...?
its definitely not an exhaust leak and it gets faster with rpms and its all the time not just cold starts
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-30-2014
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Sounds like a rocker arm tapping on the valve.

Like the man said, hard to diagnose with out hands on advantage.
This video should help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCkBGDuw4sIou
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 01-31-2014
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make sure your plugs are snug. I had a similar problem I thought it was bad gas, then I thought it was an exhaust leak then thought it was my valvetrain. I later figured it out when my plug blew straight out of the head taking the threads with it.

02 Mustang GT Hard Top. 3.73 rear, CAI, No A/C,Performance suspension, Straight pipes from the cat. Bama Tuned. Rear upper and lower control arms with poly bushings.
Future mods: Cam, 3.9 rear, better suspension, Lightweight drive shaft, subframe connectors, larger tb, Long tube headers with electronic cutouts and SLP LMII's, SCT tuner, better wheels and tires, possibly a 2500 torque converter.
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