99 mustang gt supercharged or no supercharged? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014 Thread Starter
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99 mustang gt supercharged or no supercharged?

So recently after finishing all my exterior work of my 99 gt i have decided to finally break into my engine bay. but there is one problem I'm facing... i have 120k! on my engine i know i have to rebuild my engine and I'm willing to take the time and money over a decent period of time to eventually supercharge it. I would like to do a kennebell but i don't know wether to go with a 1.7l or a 2.3l. i also don't know where to start with my engine i know i need to rebuild my tranny upgrade fuel pump, injectors, gears ect. Is there anyone out there who could talk me through most of the process i would greatly appreciate it!
Thanks everyone!

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014
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120k on these engines is not that much, and if you are wanting to supercharge it, you could have shop perform a leak down test and compression test to see how healthy your engine is. I would have no problem superchargin a 4.6L with 120k on it. This is just my opinion.

If you are set on rebuilding, after pulling the engine, you would need the block cleaned up, heat tanked, re-bored, re-honed, new pistons/rings (at least) to match the new bore, seals, freeze plugs, oil pump, your heads should be cleaned up, sounds like you want a forged rotating assembly to handle the supercharger...after all that, you could have bought a long block already assembled from Ford Racing/MMR/MHS or another reputable shop. Saves you time and in most cases money.

You could also find a used engine on ebay/craigslist/junk-yard and have that one rebuilt that way your car is not out of commission while you're engine is being built.

As far as rebuilding the tranny, kind of the same thing as the engine. Will this thing be a track car? Cruise car? If it not gonig to be a track only car, the stock transmission may be fine for quite awhile.

The real question is...What is your budget???? and What power level are you seeking?

EDIT: Don't forget suspension/braking/chassis bracing


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014
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Just like stated above, what are your goals? Is it a DD, track car, weekend car?
120k is fine for a supercharger


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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014 Thread Starter
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the car is a DD 4 days a week usually friday-monday , it will be more of a cruise car no track maybe a few pulls at a drag way nothing crazy though. I personally am looking to be around 400-500 horsepower all said and done . My budget is somewhere around 6-8k as well if that is possible to stay under
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014 Thread Starter
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would it be smarter to just purchase a 347 stroker crate engine for that price range and have it dropped in? i would have to build my tranny regardless i believe?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014
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Your goals are gonna be tough on that budget. The KB setup, plus fuel mods (don't just use a BAP with the stock pump, do it right and upgrade your pump to a 255 or 300 lph unit) is already gonna be pushing 5 or 6 grand, an assembled shortblock is easily another $4K.

I'm not saying it can't be done, but in the interest of being realistic I would try to add a couple grand to your budget. And alot of it also depends on how much of the work you can do yourself - shop labor charges are the real mothertrucker here. If you can buy a bare block, get a forged rotating assembly shipped to you as a box of loose parts and then put it all together yourself then you stand to save quite a bit right there. Same goes with the blower install.

Personally for me, just due to my own experience and skill level I would prefer to just spend the money on an assembled block. Also take into account that by the time you acquire whatever tools necessary for that sort of work, an engine stand to put it on during assembly and a cherry picker to pull out the old slug that maybe the savings of diy from the ground up might not be so worthwhile. Although the experience of successfully doing it on your own is priceless. The blower, although I've not done one before, is totally something I could see somebody like myself with average skills installing on their own - I wouldn't spend money on shop labor for that.

You could for now if you like - assuming as mentioned above that your engine is healthy, strap on a KB of choice with a big pulley as to keep boost at a moderate level, with fuel mods and tuning and should be able to keep that within your stated budget. 400 rwhp is the commonly accepted threshold that the stock 4.6 internals can reliably handle; figure you should be able to get there with about 8-10 psi, air/air heat exchanger and a good dyno tune. Then in a few years or whatever, put together a shortblock that can handle more and turning up the boost is as simple as a smaller pulley, bigger squirters and a new dyno tune.

Bottom line here is you've got lots of homework and soul searching to do.


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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-21-2014
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I wouldn't do a 347. Completely different engine from a 4.6, installing that would require a new K member, fuel system, transmission, pcm or engine management otherwise.... Stay with a 4.6 or stroked version, it will make your life much more simple.

As far as your trans goes, the real weak link in the drivetrain is the stock axles. You can break an input shaft of the trans for sure, but in order to do that would likely need a built rearend and really good traction (slicks or maybe dr's) before the trans was exposed as the next weak link. In most cases as far as street driven cars are concerned, the stock transmission will hold up to some decent power just fine. Not a bad idea to do some upgrades there, especially once you do get into the realm of sticky tires, built rear and enough power to break stuff but imo doesn't need to be at the top of your list.


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And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-24-2014
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I am running a complete 2.1L Kennebell kit including there big air tube, K&N filter kit, heat exchanger, fuel injectors. actually everything you need to run there kit including the BAP, and (chip with 2 tunes, which is the only part of there kit I do not recommend). There tune was to lean, my tuner had to get out of it at about 4500 rpms. He then wired the BAP to run full time (not off vacuum switch) as the kit suggest. I am very happy my stock 4.6L 2v put down 400 RWHP and 415 ftlbs . I think I had $5,700 in the kit.

I also would like to make you aware, that if you have a automatic transmission you will need to do some work there. as the RPMS will climb faster then the stock 4R70W can shift, and you will hit the rev limiter between shifts. these trans take to long to shift 1st to 2nd, 2nd to 3rd isn't to bad, you can feel the difference during normal driving.

I have a new Performance automatic Competition series with torque convertor being installed in two weeks.

2000 Mustang Saleen
Kenne bell Supercharger 2.1L compete kit
Fluidyne Radiator
21st Sentry Heat Exchanger
Bassani High flow mid pipe
PA Competition Series 4R70W
Ford Racing 3:55 Gear set
400 RWHP and 415 FT LBS of torque
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014
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Originally Posted by 99gtmurder View Post
would it be smarter to just purchase a 347 stroker crate engine for that price range and have it dropped in? i would have to build my tranny regardless i believe?
You will be much happier with the supercharged 4.6 than buying a new crate engine imo Power and reliability is all in the tune and that should be taken seriously. The motor can handle around 400whp more or less and if you want more power building the block isnt that ecpensive, the kenne bell is a top of the line power adder but there are other cheaper alternitives if money is an issue, if it is not then you should have no problem building a motor slapping on the kb and getting it tuned, either way good luck on your build and do as much research as you can before dropping a ton of $$ -my .02
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