spun a bearing, rebuild? - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014 Thread Starter
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spun a bearing, rebuild?

Hello everyone, i have a 99 gt 5speed with 110,000k. I recently spun the number 1 rod barring. The piston came up and smacked the sparkplug out of the cylinder. The engine was stopped after less than 30 seconds after and is now sitting, w8ing to be fixed. I plan on just throwing in a new crank, connectingrod, and piston. And might as well re ring all 8 pistons. What kind of problems might I come across, and is there any helpful tips anyone would like to share?

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014
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Unless funds are a major factor, I would rebuild the whole bottom-end and make sure the heads are in good enough condition to re-use (hopefully you didnt bend a valve when that piston shot up...). I would also buy a new oil pump, timing chains, guides, tensioners, etc....

Could be a good time to go all forged

What is your budget and time frame?


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014 Thread Starter
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Yea I've been thinking of going all forged, but a forged crank is around $800, or I can get a 8 bolt cobra crank for $200. Is it worth putting forged connecting rods and pistons on a cast crank? I do have a 5 speed with a 3.73 final and I love bagging gears. But after I port my heads I won't be doing any more performance mods. Also are you suggesting the oil pump just because I'm opening up the bottom end?
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014 Thread Starter
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I would like to be on the road and broken in by mid April. Have about $800 to play with, but will be doing all work myself
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014
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With your performance goals, you probably do not need forged rods or pistons, but a forged crankshaft would be beneficial so you can rev higher. This would help when you port your heads as you mentioned above.

I recommend a new oil pump, tensioners, guides, chains because you already have the engine apart. Wtih 110km (not sure what that is in miles) it is good insurance and peace of mind.

Mid-april is realistic if you can do the work yourself. I'm not sure if the $800 is enough...don't forget about the little expenses here and there...

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1987 Mustang GT Hatchback - 2V Mod Swap In The Works

1997 Lincoln Town Car, PI Intake/Cams, Sofa-On-Wheels, "Fat Tony" we call it

2001 GT Convertible - D1SC / Geared / Cammed / 440wh 400wt - TOTALED 2/2019
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014
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IMO the $800 budget is too low for the goals. If the primary goal is to get the car back on the road while staying within budget, a low mileage salvage yard motor is your best bet.

Try car-part.com for a searchable list of salvage yards in your area. If interested in a lower price option, consider the Windsor/Romeo swap from a 2001+ Crown Vic/Grand Marquis/Town Car.

The main problem that I see with your rebuild idea has to do with contamination. Unless you are planning to fully disassemble, clean, and inspect the old motor, how can you be certain that all metal debris has been removed? Otherwise, there's a possibility of having a short service life for your rebuilt motor.

Suggest researching this. There's a real possibility that by time you pay for the machine work and parts it will exceed the cost of a whole salvage yard motor.

Further, what happens if additional damage is found? Say the heads are cracked or valve is bent which is a real possibility given the piston to spark plug contact? Results. Blown rebuild budget.

IMO, rebuilding the old block only makes sense if MAJOR upgrades are planned with a matching budget.

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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-27-2014 Thread Starter
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hmm.first the engine is at about 110,000 mi... Lol don't know how the k in there.
The engine that just spun the barring was salvaged about 10,000mi's ago That's Why I was thinking rebuild so I knew what I had to work with. I can get a set of 8 forged rods and pistons for $400, witch is a hell of a deal as far as I could find.
but I wasn't thinking about the pieces of metal that might still be present. There was no metal shavings it the oil, and when I looked in the #1 cylinder (the cylinder that spun the barring) with my lol camera, and turned the engine by hand the valves looked like they up and down smooth, but I don't know if that really means anything.
finally if I do a Windsor to Romeo swap, what do I need to look out for,
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