Brand New Clutch Chatter/Noise - '00 GT - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014 Thread Starter
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Brand New Clutch Chatter/Noise - '00 GT

Hey guys,

I've got a 2000 GT w/ 178k, 5-speed. I just had the clutch replaced in January due to a slipping clutch and bad T/O bearing. I had it replaced by a reputable shop in the area. I have been back to this shop 2 times for more replacements (I will list details for each visit). I am STILL HAVING a clutch chatter noise when decelerating while in gear (engine braking). Here are the details of each visit:

1st time: Dropped car off. Clutch replaced with a very close to stock LUK Clutch kit. T/O bearing, pilot bearing, clutch. I also had my flywheel resurfaced. I drove off and immediately started getting a clutch chatter noise. Also, the car shook when shifting.

2nd time: They told me it was a defective clutch causing the noise, and a bad flywheel causing the shaking. I ordered in a FRPP flywheel and new bolts. They replaced my clutch and all components again. Then they "found out" that I had a bad clutch fork and pivot ball stud. So I replaced all of that. I started getting clutch chatter again and unnatural clutch pedal tension after a month.

3rd time: I ordered in a FRPP T/O bearing and brought it to them. They said it wasn't the clutch causing the issue, so they only replaced the T/O bearing. Come to find out, the original T/O bearing the put in was partially made of plastic unlike the FRPP which is all metal. After 3 days, I now have the clutch chatter back.

Any insight on my troubles will help!

PS. I believe I have the T-45 tranny, but I could be wrong.


2000 Mustang GT!!!
FRPP Intake manifold, Flowmaster 40's with larger pipes and tips (Nice deep tone).

"I want to own a shop where people can come and not get completely ripped off" - Ludacris (Fast Five)
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-23-2014
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Well I know my clutch shakes my car but it's a stage 1 clutch and pedal is very stiff. However, some clutches naturally chatter but should get quieter for longer you break it in. But I think some clutches just chatter period.


[/SIGPIC]2001 mustang gt - accufab throttle body/plenum and intake spacer, airaid cold air intake, ram hdx stage 1 clutch, optima yellow top battery , 3.73 gears with fresh replacement of bearings, sr short throw shifter, much more to come .
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply, man. I had no idea brand new clutch noise was common? I thought it was just me.

2000 Mustang GT!!!
FRPP Intake manifold, Flowmaster 40's with larger pipes and tips (Nice deep tone).

"I want to own a shop where people can come and not get completely ripped off" - Ludacris (Fast Five)
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014
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A little chatter with a new, un-broken in clutch is normal, and with some performance clutches it never goes away 100%. But the chatter noise should only occur during engagement, usually only noticeable when trying to get moving from a stop in 1st or Reverse.

Kinda sounds like yours isn't limited to that scenario - "chatter noise while decel in gear", I'm not really sure wtf to make of that.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014 Thread Starter
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Yeah I'm mostly getting noise while cruising at about 45 in 4th gear. The clutch is far from performance, I told the shop that I wanted something as close to stock as possible. Which is why they recommended LUK. They may be feeding me ********, but they assured me there was no break in period at all. "Just don't do a burnout leaving the parking lot" is exactly what they said. I am pretty sure every clutch needs a break in period. When should I start to become worried that my clutch is actually bad? 1000 miles if the noise doesn't go away?

2000 Mustang GT!!!
FRPP Intake manifold, Flowmaster 40's with larger pipes and tips (Nice deep tone).

"I want to own a shop where people can come and not get completely ripped off" - Ludacris (Fast Five)
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-24-2014
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Usually break in is about 500 miles. Road trip on the hwy where it stays in 5th the whole time doesn't count; 500 miles of around town or city/hwy mixed driving where you're frequently shifting gears and engaging/disengaging the clutch. After that, feel free to rip into it. My Spec clutch quieted down slightly after getting through the break in period, but due to also having an aluminum flywheel installed there's a little chatter that's just always gonna be there. The clutch you have should be quiet as a church mouse.

That's strange they would suggest you forego any sort of break in, as it is their parts and labor on the line for warranty.

If you see SPeaceATL around (or if he doesn't happen upon this thread) you may want to relay your questions/concerns to him - my understanding is he rebuilds transmissions for a living and is intimately familiar with all things T45. You may have to look around the various subsections to find him - think he kinda posts all over; one of those guys I might see two posts in one hour and then not again for two weeks over here in 4.6.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014 Thread Starter
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I'll keep an eye out for him. Thanks for all the info! I'll try to remember to update this post in a few weeks with how it sounds.

2000 Mustang GT!!!
FRPP Intake manifold, Flowmaster 40's with larger pipes and tips (Nice deep tone).

"I want to own a shop where people can come and not get completely ripped off" - Ludacris (Fast Five)
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