Little history would be good here... Such as, things you have already tried.
Also, is the Check Engine light on?
Usually with vacuum leaks - although hesitation can be one of the symptoms, more common would be things along the lines of rough or unsteady idle (but runs ok with throttle), Check Engine light (lean code).
Idle is a little lopey once the car is on for about 30 seconds. On light acceleration it's fine, slightly more than light you can feel it hesitate, then when you floor it it seems fine.
Regarding the IAC, that would only have an effect on idle (most people who experience a faulty IAC are plagued with a high rpm idle speed), so I wouldn't worry about that. Throttle Position Sensor would be different problems as well and also likely accompanied by a CEL and component specific dtc, so IMO you can rule that out for the time being.
Gotcha, makes sense. I figured those parts are cheap enough that it couldn't hurt to replace them and hang on to the stock pieces just in case. Looks like they were never replaced in 119k.
I would start with the usual tune up items like spark plugs and fuel filter. Inexpensive and simple stuff. Inspect the coil boots for any damage or deterioration - if juice is arcing through them it can often be identified by a brownish dusty substance on the boot. Replace as necessary. When you do the plugs, be absolutely sure not to overtighten them. 11-14 lb/ft is the spec; if you don't have a torque wrench around then my own personal technique is snug tight and then bump the handle of your ratchet with your fist. Regarding gap, I like to run them a little closer than the factory .054" spec - feel free to set them at about .046" if you like.
Thanks I will do that. I didn't look at it too closely, but it looks like some of the hoses and brackets above the COP's and plugs need to be unbolted to access all of the COP's and plugs? I will be replacing the plugs, NGK OEM's, which I believe are gapped to spec already. I will check them.
Is the fuel filter a simple item to replace?
And for the $6 it will cost you for a can of MAF cleaner, might as well do that as well. Don't use anything else but that product though, as the MAF can be easily damaged by harsh solvents lile carb cleaner, etc.
Thanks, and good point.
I've read some that adding some Seafoam to the vacuum hose that routes from the intake to the IM is also a good idea, any thoughts on that?
I really appreciate the help.