Installing a clutch for the first time - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Installing a clutch for the first time

Whats up guys... been a while since I posted/lurked in here... my car has been kind of on the back-burner since I have moved and been working non-stop... I let the thing sit for about a month and when I started it the other day, I got a hell of a squeeeeeel from the throw out bearing. i guess that was the mustangs way of telling me not to ignore her anymore....

anyhow... I've been searching around on the forum here.. and on some facebook pages... and I'm trying to gather opinions on a few things...

First off, I ordered a Spec Stage 2 clutch.... I've read both good and bad, and finally settled on it because a guy who lives near me with a nice Cobra has pretty much sold me on it.

I also ordered a FRPP throw out bearing.... didn't want to use the Spec on included in the kit... I read it is junk.

Now I am looking at 2 things..... the flywheel and the cable

1>..... should I buy a new flywheel??? or is it ok to re-surface the factory one?? I'm real tight on $$$ so if I can use the factory one with this clutch I would be really happy.

2> what is a good clutch cable kit?? is the SR performance one on AM any good? or is the BBK one better?? I like the price on the SR ....


any feedback would be greatly appreciate... thanks!


2003 GT convertible
Current mods:Vortech V2 (3.33 pulley), Complete Bassani exhaust, FRPP 90mm MAF, 52# injectors, BBK 78mm intake, Accel coil packs, Steeda Tri-Ax, AM reverse glow dash, AEM wideband air/fuel guage, AEM boost guage, Anderson Power Pipe, Kenne Bell BAP, UPR control arms, Spec Stage 2 Clutch.

^^^^SOLD!!!!! now sporting an all stock (for now) 2011 GT =)
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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For the Spec Stage2 clutch, you can definitely use the factory flywheel again to save money. Make sure it's resurfaced properly and you won't have any problems. Lots of other members on this forum run single disc clutches with the factory flywheel.

Secondly, the SR adjustable clutch cable is a nice upgrade. When the SR unit first came out, some people were having issues with the cable snapping. Since then SR has upgraded the clutch line and I haven't seen anyone have issues with the cable. Which is why I'm confident you'll be happy with the SR unit going forward!

Are you installing the clutch yourself or having a shop install it?

Shane


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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I personally wouldn't have any issues with re-surfacing the current flywheel (assuming it's within spec).

If $$ are tight, why not stick with the Ford stock clutch cable? It's not like it couldn't easily be changed later should your budget improve or you change your mind.

However, many aftermarket clutch kits replace the stock quadrant. Often this involves "breaking" the stock unit in order to remove it. This makes going back to stock difficult/impossible.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014
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As long as there is no heat cracks in the flywheel,
it is still good. When I did mine I noticed that there
was a little discoloration but no cracks so I scuffed
it up with light emery cloth [ 220 grit] in a circular
motion. Never had any problems with slippage.
I use a ford racing adjustable clutch cable. If you
still have the factory self adjusting clutch quadrant
Get rid of it now.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Yes I am doing it myself in the driveway with the help of a friend and a few cold beers.... I was quoated $450 labor and decided it was worth trying myself... not scared of a little challenge.

I want the SR cable because I'd rather just install it now and get it over with.. I still have the stock cable and quadrant and heard that the Spec stage 2 can be a bit stiff setup like that... so I want the option to adjust it.

Hey Shane, I just shot Dan a private message asking if there was a discount code at AM ... can you send that to me? I've got part up and ready to order

2003 GT convertible
Current mods:Vortech V2 (3.33 pulley), Complete Bassani exhaust, FRPP 90mm MAF, 52# injectors, BBK 78mm intake, Accel coil packs, Steeda Tri-Ax, AM reverse glow dash, AEM wideband air/fuel guage, AEM boost guage, Anderson Power Pipe, Kenne Bell BAP, UPR control arms, Spec Stage 2 Clutch.

^^^^SOLD!!!!! now sporting an all stock (for now) 2011 GT =)
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdmeyers1982 View Post
Yes I am doing it myself in the driveway with the help of a friend and a few cold beers.... I was quoated $450 labor and decided it was worth trying myself... not scared of a little challenge.

I want the SR cable because I'd rather just install it now and get it over with.. I still have the stock cable and quadrant and heard that the Spec stage 2 can be a bit stiff setup like that... so I want the option to adjust it.

Hey Shane, I just shot Dan a private message asking if there was a discount code at AM ... can you send that to me? I've got part up and ready to order
I applaud you for taking the project on yourself with a friend. I've always been one for working on my own car, even when it was a new project. As long as you take your time, I'm sure you'll get the job done!

I can absolutely hook you up with the discount code. Sending you a PM right now!

Shane

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014
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As mentioned, go with the cable kit (cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster). I got the SR kit a few years back (whoch at the time supplied a Steeda cable). The only thing I was unhappy about was the.complete lack of install and setup instructions. If it's still that way, just go on MaximumMotorsports site and look up the very detailed instructions for their cable/quadrant/adjuster, as the parts are basically identical.

Other than that, the only hurdles I'm aware of with this job is the top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a total b!tch to get to, and the starter bolts aren't much fun. For the starter bolts, I've heard the most reasonable access is through the front passenger wheel well with the splash shield removed.


2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
As mentioned, go with the cable kit (cable, quadrant and firewall adjuster). I got the SR kit a few years back (whoch at the time supplied a Steeda cable). The only thing I was unhappy about was the.complete lack of install and setup instructions. If it's still that way, just go on MaximumMotorsports site and look up the very detailed instructions for their cable/quadrant/adjuster, as the parts are basically identical.

Other than that, the only hurdles I'm aware of with this job is the top 2 bolts on the bellhousing are a total b!tch to get to, and the starter bolts aren't much fun. For the starter bolts, I've heard the most reasonable access is through the front passenger wheel well with the splash shield removed.
Like SoCal said the only really problems are the top 2 bolts and the starter bolts but with a few different sized extensions and a few swivels you can get them. The starter bolts you can go though the front through the k member.

2000 GT 5 speed
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-04-2014
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I have been helping our youngest son change a clutch in a 2002 Mustang GT.

Good luck changing that clutch in your driveway! OMG, it is a female dog to change on a lift (my wife bought me a 10K# two post lift a long time ago and I cannot imagine doing a Mustang clutch on ramps!).

First thing to come out is the driveshaft. I hope that you have a yoke to put in the trans as it WILL puke trans fluid out when you pill the driveshaft yoke out of the trans.

We found the following things had to happen before we could get the bell housing bolts out:

1). The trans has NEVER been out and we have had to heat every bell housing bolt to get them out (we suspect that they threads have Loctite on them from the factory thus they needed to be heated to get the out). OBTW, they are 13 mm socket and you HAVE TO have a 1/2" drive shallow well 13 mm impact swivel socket to get to them and to get them out.

2). You can't even see the top two bolts unless you drop the back brackets for the exhaust and the transmission crossemember. By doing that it lets the trans and engine sag down so you can BARELY see them but you can now get a LONG extension on them to get them out.

The starter bolts are a female dog to get out. You need a good set of extensions and a helper with a small pair of hands to get the sockt on the starter bolts.

I hope this helps you.
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice guys!! good news for me.... I now have access to a shop with a lift and air tools... so hopefully I get that sucker apart this morning BEFORE the machine shop closes... it is going to be a race against time... but I'm not scared.

so any advice on the top starter bolt?? lol.... my mechanic friend isnt worried but I keep telling him it is notorious.... maybe its already been removed and I'll get lucky. ha.

also any pic requests while I got it apart?

I found a real good "how-to" video on youtube as well... thought I would share it here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFr0...xBaRDg&index=3

2003 GT convertible
Current mods:Vortech V2 (3.33 pulley), Complete Bassani exhaust, FRPP 90mm MAF, 52# injectors, BBK 78mm intake, Accel coil packs, Steeda Tri-Ax, AM reverse glow dash, AEM wideband air/fuel guage, AEM boost guage, Anderson Power Pipe, Kenne Bell BAP, UPR control arms, Spec Stage 2 Clutch.

^^^^SOLD!!!!! now sporting an all stock (for now) 2011 GT =)
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014 Thread Starter
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Thumbs up

Top starter bolt wasn't toooooo bad but still a knuckle buster... and a hot exhaust didnt help... but it pays to have the right tools
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2003 GT convertible
Current mods:Vortech V2 (3.33 pulley), Complete Bassani exhaust, FRPP 90mm MAF, 52# injectors, BBK 78mm intake, Accel coil packs, Steeda Tri-Ax, AM reverse glow dash, AEM wideband air/fuel guage, AEM boost guage, Anderson Power Pipe, Kenne Bell BAP, UPR control arms, Spec Stage 2 Clutch.

^^^^SOLD!!!!! now sporting an all stock (for now) 2011 GT =)
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