THEFT light 1-6 error code - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014 Thread Starter
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THEFT light 1-6 error code

1st time poster, long time follower...

Really hoping someone can chime in and I can get help to resolve this electrical issue that I am having...

I finally get my car back from the tuner now that the Procharger has been installed and I am still having one hell of a time with the PATS system and THEFT light blinking on the dash.

It blinks 1 time, pauses for 3 seconds and then blinks 6 more times. The sequence will continue for about 5 mins and then the THEFT light will turn off. I am able to start and drive the car normally and fortunately has not disabled the starter. In doing some research I found that this code means:
Faulty link between PATS module and EECV

I did have my tuner disable PATS and this did not matter as the same problem occurs.

I also already had my CCRM replaced as my car would not even start before I got it tuned. The mechanic also had to replace one of the large 30 AMP Max fuses in the distributor box in the engine compartment as it was blown. The odd thing is that after the tuner made his first WOT run on the dyno, the car would not start as it blew the 30AMP fuse again. He replaced it with a new one and was able to complete the tuning by doing many more runs at WOT without any further problems.

My car did not have any THEFT problems before it was tuned by the SCT tuner and then once we got a base tune on there after the supercharger was installed, that is when I started to have issues. I use to have an aftermarket car alarm installed but we pulled the entire system out.

On the plus side my car is now making 449rwhp and gained a decent 150rwhp with he supercharger so I am happy with that. I just need to get this darn error code problem fixed and I will be happy.

Thank you in advance for your help!

Mark

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014
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I give up. What Model year Mustang are we dealing with?

WHICH fuse blew? The model year and the fuse makes a difference.

On the off chance this is a 99-04, here's a link to the fuse panel layout.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...1.html#2669271

Frankly I leaning towards two problems with your car. The blinking theft light is not the core problem especially since PATS has been disabled anyway.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-07-2014 Thread Starter
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sorry, I haven't figured out how to add a signature yet...

2001 Cobra

It was a 30AMP Maxi fuse that was for the PCM.

The PATS was disabled but the same problem was occurring so my tuner enabled PATS again.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014
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There are slight differences in the various model year diagrams and fuse sizes. Many of the fuses are "called" PCM fuses when they actually go to the CCRM. So that I can help you I need to know the fuse ID in the form of F1=BJB or F2=CJB and fuse number.

Look at diagram 11-01 and find the fuse number from the battery junction box (BJB) diagram. Once I know the true fuse number I can look at the diagrams and go from there.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ml#post2669271

However, I have to admit being doubtful that disabling or enabling PATS could "cause" a BJB fuse to blow or not. I'm thinking this may be a case of the "slight" differences between the Cobra and GT not being applied correctly. IMO the blowing BJB fuse has nothing to do with the PATS problem.

Note, many ppl report a blinking theft light when PATS is disabled via tune. In that regard the blinking theft light does NOT represent a problem. Which is way many ppl with PATS disable simply remove the theft light from the cluster.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wmburns View Post
There are slight differences in the various model year diagrams and fuse sizes. Many of the fuses are "called" PCM fuses when they actually go to the CCRM. So that I can help you I need to know the fuse ID in the form of F1=BJB or F2=CJB and fuse number.

Look at diagram 11-01 and find the fuse number from the battery junction box (BJB) diagram. Once I know the true fuse number I can look at the diagrams and go from there.

https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...ml#post2669271

However, I have to admit being doubtful that disabling or enabling PATS could "cause" a BJB fuse to blow or not. I'm thinking this may be a case of the "slight" differences between the Cobra and GT not being applied correctly. IMO the blowing BJB fuse has nothing to do with the PATS problem.

Note, many ppl report a blinking theft light when PATS is disabled via tune. In that regard the blinking theft light does NOT represent a problem. Which is way many ppl with PATS disable simply remove the theft light from the cluster.
That's a big relief knowing that other people have experienced the same problem with the blinking THEFT light - I have been racking my brain the past few days thinking that there might be a bigger problem with the PATS system. I might try to call SCT and see if there is a specific file for Cobra's that might be able correct this issue. I just have an uneasy feeling disconnecting a light bulb to correct a problem.

I am at work right now and will double check my fuse position with the diagram and get back to you.

I REALLY, REALLY appreciate your time and help that you can give me.

Mark
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VENOMOUSONE View Post
I have been racking my brain the past few days thinking that there might be a bigger problem with the PATS system. I might try to call SCT and see if there is a specific file for Cobra's that might be able correct this issue. I just have an uneasy feeling disconnecting a light bulb to correct a problem.
I get the feeling that you don't understand how PATS works and why the light is blinking. Consider that for the 99+ model year the PATS system involves BOTH the cluster AND the PCM. The theft light is blinking because the cluster is expecting a coded message from the PCM.

With PATS disabled inside the PCM, the PCM never tells the cluster everything is OK. Therefore the cluster blinks the theft light until it times out.

A new PCM tune isn't going to change how the cluster works.

If you really want the theft light to stop blinking either:
*Learn to ignore it
*remove it
*fix what was wrong with the system to begin with.

As for the differences between the Cobra and GT. My guess is that the fuse that is blowing is the fan fuse. On the GT the fuse is 30 amp. On the Cobra the fuse is 50 amp. Which could explain why the fuse is blowing. But I won't know for certain until the fuse has been confirmed.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-08-2014 Thread Starter
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Well my car just got towed back to my work (Ford Dealership) again tonight. The same 30amp fuse blew twice. After driving around for a while this afternoon the car died again... under normal acceleration from a dead stop in 1st gear the check engine stopped and the check engine light came on. I had extra fuses with me and 2 brand new 30amp fuses blew as soon as I tried to start the car.

The problem fuse is F1.26 in the BJB box - it is the same one and only one that keeps frying.

Could it possibly be a ground not connected properly that is causing an overload?

The only other info I can give is that I did have my clutch changed out by my mechanic from my work who installed my Procharger. I don't know if any grounds or wires are around the transmission housing that can be affected? I did not have any issues with the fuse or PATS until the blower install was complete and we put a base SCT tune on the car to get it going. It died on me for the 1st time after putting on about 100kms I gave a bit of throttle in 1st gear and then the engine stopped while accelerating in 1st gear. We found that the plugs were also full of fuel as I tried to start the car multiple times and not knowing fuel was just being dumped. After clearing out the fuel from the plugs the car started again without a problem. The THEFT problem started about a week after this incident when the car was in the service department getting an a/c charge and it would not start after getting the a/c charge. The THEFT light kept blinking and we tried both keys, reprogramming the keys but it did not work. The electrical mechanic traced it back to the CCRM saying that there was no power after the module so we ordered a new one and after they put the new module in it did not start again UNTIL they found out that this same fuse F1.26 had blown. Once the replaced it with a new one then the car started and ran for a while until it died on the dyno as previously mentioned.

Thanks again.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014
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F1.26 powers the engine IGNITION as well as F2.2 and F2.8. Since F2.2 nor F2.8 is blowing and the ignition does use a crap load of power, my vote is a problem within the ignition system.

Soooooo what are the most common reasons for excessive ignition power draw?
  • Bad COP or Coil.
  • Bad spark plug. For example closed spark plug gap that almost immediately grounds out the spark.
  • Excessive Dwell. This could be from a grounded signal return line or bad PCM.
  • bad radio interference capacitor
  • bad or weak motor ground. Double check the grounding strap between the left hand motor mount and frame rail is in place.

If I were a professional mechanic and ordered a new CCRM because of no power. Only to find out after replacing a good CCRM that the fuse powering the circuit (F1.26) was blown all along, I would have to have s serious "skills" check.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.

Last edited by wmburns; 06-09-2014 at 08:51 PM.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-09-2014 Thread Starter
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Looks like my electrical mechanic found the problem... the wires that go to the MAF that was relocated to the inner fender well were arc'ing on the metal edge. Obviously they should have been properly insulated when relocated. He also pulled the THEFT light blub so that won't be an issue anymore.

I am hopeful that this will get me on the road and I can now go WOT with confidence and not cringe thinking that my fuse might blow and need another tow to the shop.

Thank you WMBURNS again for your time to respond!
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