comp cams stage 3 (what other parts do I need?) - Ford Mustang Forum
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014 Thread Starter
shan_db9's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: canoga
Posts: 48
Smile comp cams stage 3 (what other parts do I need?)

Hi I orderd the comp cams stage 3 xe270ah but I read some comments and turns out the stock bolts dosent fit the cams from the 2000 mustang gt 4.6 pi head camshaft bolts.

Comp Cams Stage 3 Xtreme Energy XE270AH Camshafts 102600 (96-04 GT) - Free Shipping - AmericanMuscle

Anyone knows the part numbers so I can order them?
I only need the spacer part number I have the bolt and washer part number

Part #

Camshaft bolt _ F1AZ6A340A
Camshaft bolt washer_ F1AZ6278A

Camshaft spacer (sits between the cam gears)_??????? Anyone knows the part number?

shan_db9 is offline  
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014
SHELBY GT 350 Member
Classic Member
4.6L Member
SoCal2V's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2010
Location: see user name
Posts: 8,705
Not sure on the bolt issue, but you can plan on springs for sure and simce it will all be apart I would install new timimg chain guides and tensioners. Also, very important to have those cams degree'd as to avoid PTV clearance issues.

2001 GT Convertible
/1967 Coupe
All the usual bolt-on's /200 I6, C4

And a few Explorers too... 2008 4.0 XLT 4x2, 1996 XLT 5.0 4x2, 2003 Sport Trac XLT 4.0 4x4
SoCal2V is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 06-18-2014
BOSS Member
Beechkid's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 4,252
IMHO, I would avoid Comp Cams like the plague.......

They have consistant QA issues that are cyclic amongst their product lines....ranging from cams, valves, springs, etc. Comp is a mass production (McDonald's type) company which - seems to have experience more cam lobe failures than most and places the blame on the low ZDDP in the oils...then experiences valve spring failure, and it just does a cycle. With regards to their cams billets, I highly suspect that they are also using Chinese & they do not include Parkerizing their cams unless you want to pay extra for it (Parkerizing is the final step and a crucial step to help break the cam in- a heated acid bath that microscopically etches the metal surface and adds a very thin layer of graphite coating which allows the cam lube to hang onto and penetrate into the cam surface during cam break in) unless you specifically request and pay additional money for it......if you keep it I hope you paid the additional $ for the Tx.

Considering the cam has such critical importance to the engines performance and life, to me it makes sense to use a cam grinder who will talk with you directly- even modify the cam grind to fit your needs even better and to address the possibility of cam lobe failure with the new oils. When it comes to making an engine breathe, there are so many variables including elevation, humidity, fuel blends/available octane, most cam mfgs will vary a "core grind pattern" to match the external impactors in addition to the internal impactors- which today IMHO makes the different between and engine that runs well, to one that just seems to run a little bit better, smoother and gets better mileage than expected.

With regards to price...the difference is nil- especially considering its cheap insurance to know exactly who is machining such a critical part for your engine. And remember, advertized lift/duration/lobe separation is just that- advertized and not the specific grind including ramp profile that is used on the cam. I highly recommend Iskenderian (who I personally know to this day physically tests/inspects every single valve spring before it leaves the shop) & Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati...all are family owned, been grinding cams for decades, and both will even re-grind your oem cam if possible- saving you even more $. Also Crower & Chet Herbert & Lunati are excellent names as well.

Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
Beechkid is offline  
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2014 Thread Starter
shan_db9's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: canoga
Posts: 48
Thanks beechkid for your reply wish id seen it sooner. :/ I already received the cams already..

And those of you wondering if you do need to get a bolt..

the stock bolt that comes out of the pi cams wont fit the comp cams stage 3 xe270ah cams. They just arent big enough.. so youll need to

Buy 2 camshaft bolts:
F1AZ-6A340-A ( this bolt is hard to find and has been discontinued so search the secound part number I listed right under this)
F5RZ 6A340 B
And 2 washers:
shan_db9 is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2014
PONY Member
blown 02's Avatar
Joined: Dec 2010
Location: crystal springs
Posts: 269
I guess I have to be the first one to disagree with you beechkid because i love my 270's. They make good power, has a very nice lope and to me a very nice all around cam in N/A & F/I form. Now the 270 is not a high rev cam. So if you are trying to rev to 6500+ then they are not the cams to get. But I love them and have no plans to change them. Comp do recommend notched pistons and upgraded springs for them.
blown 02 is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2014
PONY Member
4.6L Member
Lackey'sGT's Avatar
Joined: Jun 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 942
Like everyone else said at least new springs and you also will need a custom tune.

2000 GT 5 speed
SMR #2415
Lackey'sGT is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-10-2014
Global Moderator
Mustang II Member
Classic Member
V6 Member
4.6L Member
5.0L Member
heavy metal's Avatar
Joined: Oct 2007
Location: Bradyville
Posts: 39,079
Send a message via Yahoo to heavy metal
I have the Comp xe268h cams and have been very happy with them.I reused the old cam bolts-01 C/V Romeo engine.Rest of mods in profile.

Cherish those around you,for at the blink
of an eye,they can be gone.

heavy metal is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-13-2014 Thread Starter
shan_db9's Avatar
Joined: Apr 2013
Location: canoga
Posts: 48
Yupp new springs are mainly needed for the swap.. but for me I bought notched pistons off modularheadshop and along with new valve guides might aswell.. and the shop charged me $375 to do a valvejob on both heads... almost done with the swap.. I need to save up $450 to degree the timing from a professional.. cuz I do not want to mess with the timing. Plus I dont know how to degree them.
shan_db9 is offline  
Sponsored Links

bolt , comp cams , stage 3 , xe270 , xe270ah

Quick Reply

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:


Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome

Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1