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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014 Thread Starter
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2003 Mustang Blue Smoke

I understand it is oil getting it the air and gas mix. But idk how to fix this or where to start. It happens whenever I accelerate for a split second then goes away. It looks like the oil is coming through my pcv tubes they are a little damp with oil. things I've tried
tested my compression ratio all the exact same
dollar bill over my oil cap it blows off when I give it some throttle(which points to what problem exactly?)
replaced my pcv valve
anymore ideas what could be wrong?


2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014
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How many miles are on it? The dollar bill over the oil cap is a new one on me. If you are burning a bit of oil on acceleration, you probably have some wear, could be guides, could be piston rings. How much oil does it burn? When you check the oil, how many miles do you drive before you add a quart? That, is the question.

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014
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You need to do a leak-down test. That will tell you where the oil is leaking (rings, valve guides, etxc...). If compression is the same across all cylinders, that would tell me the oil is getting in from the valve guides and valve seals. New heads, or getting your current heads rebuilt will solve that problem.

To prevent oil from getting into the intake through the PCV then buy an oil separator (UPR has a nice one).

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fairmontdave View Post
How many miles are on it? The dollar bill over the oil cap is a new one on me. If you are burning a bit of oil on acceleration, you probably have some wear, could be guides, could be piston rings. How much oil does it burn? When you check the oil, how many miles do you drive before you add a quart? That, is the question.
120k ya she is old. I'm not sure how much oil exactly it burns and I haven't added any oil my levels never got low enough where I thought it would be necessary before my oil change my dipstick reads "MAX" every time so not thinking its leaking a lot I suppose

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-25-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JonR2006 View Post
You need to do a leak-down test. That will tell you where the oil is leaking (rings, valve guides, etxc...). If compression is the same across all cylinders, that would tell me the oil is getting in from the valve guides and valve seals. New heads, or getting your current heads rebuilt will solve that problem.

To prevent oil from getting into the intake through the PCV then buy an oil separator (UPR has a nice one).
Well New heads always sounds like a nice option haha

Would I need two oil separators? both tubes on my head covers have oil in them pcv valve and I believe the other one is a breather?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-26-2014
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Your pcv lines will have oil residue in them, that's what they do.
They vent the crankcase which has oil vapors. You could put a catch can in-line between the pcv valve and the intake to catch some of those vapors before they enter the intake. If your getting pressure out of the oil cap at idle or when you rev it, you have blow-by which is caused by worn rings letting compression leak from the combustion chamber, past the pistons/rings into your crankcase which is why you feel it through the oil cap. This would also cause your to burn oil on acceleration.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014 Thread Starter
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Your pcv lines will have oil residue in them, that's what they do.
They vent the crankcase which has oil vapors. You could put a catch can in-line between the pcv valve and the intake to catch some of those vapors before they enter the intake. If your getting pressure out of the oil cap at idle or when you rev it, you have blow-by which is caused by worn rings letting compression leak from the combustion chamber, past the pistons/rings into your crankcase which is why you feel it through the oil cap. This would also cause your to burn oil on acceleration.
I thought worn rings would cause my compression in the cylinders that are worn to be lower then the rest of the cylinders? As I stated my compression test was perfect across the board 190psi in all 8 cylinders. but if I'm wrong please correct me as I am still learning.

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjacheezit View Post
I thought worn rings would cause my compression in the cylinders that are worn to be lower then the rest of the cylinders? As I stated my compression test was perfect across the board 190psi in all 8 cylinders. but if I'm wrong please correct me as I am still learning.
190psi in all cylinders is very good. TripleZ is correct; however, if both your valve seals and valve guides are worn, which is common on high mileage cars, the oil can seep through there. Mine does the same, and every time I start up a small puff of smoke comes out of the exhaust. At idle or while driving normally there is no blue smoke at all. Because your compression is good and even on all 8 cylinders, the only obvious culprit is worn valve guides that lets small amounts of oil into the air and fuel mixture as the valve open and the cylinder sucks in the air.

I change my oil every 3000 miles (half synthetic 5w20), and I never have to fill. There is no noticeable loss off oil between the oil changes when looking at the dipstick.

As mentioned, this is common on high mileage cars, and out 4.6s are known for this "problem". I have heard of and seen several 4.6s with the same issue running like that for 50k+ miles without any major issues. As long as you keep an eye on it (check oil level at least once a week) you will be fine. Add oil as necessary, if it starts burning a lot of oil and you have to fill a quart or more every 3000 miles you should start looking into getting your heads rebuilt, otherwise it is not really necessary unless you to.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014 Thread Starter
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so basically if I ever want it to stop or it starts causing problems my options are having the heads rebuilt or new heads correct?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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so basically if I ever want it to stop or it starts causing problems my options are having the heads rebuilt or new heads correct?
From how it looks, yes. If you do a leak down test like JonR suggested you will know 100% for sure, but because the compression is good I am positive the oil comes from the heads.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2014 Thread Starter
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okay cool well atleast I have a good idea of what it is. Since I plan on getting new heads anyways eventually do you think it would be a good idea to wait and just buy the tfs twisted wedge heads or should I just get it rebuilt or is it unsafe if I'm leaking oil in my engine. My tuner told me my car would be making 259 (he showed me the dyno graph of it) on his mustang dyno and its only 3 degrees away from my 241 but it was pinging so he bumped it down and if I fix this oil in my pcv valve that he could up the timing back to that or even more. is this true that its affecting how much more timing my car could be at or was he just trying to get me to buy some parts off of him?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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From 241rwhp to 259rwhp with just a 3 degree difference? Well, from my understanding the oil should not make the pinging worse. Make sure your fuel filter is good, and that you run high quality 93 octane gas. I run the Bama X4 canned 91 octane race tune, and using 93 octane gas from a Race Trac station made it ping quite a bit so I had to retard timing 9 degrees. After running two tanks of 93 octane gas from a Chevron station I decided to play some with the timing and was able to run with only 6 degrees retarded without pinging. The more you advance the timing the greater the effect will be, but you have to be careful and run good quality gas and not something from your local ghetto gas station.

With the worn valve seals you will be fine just rebuilding them. If you have the money then by all means get the TFS Twisted Wedge heads, I have seen some serious power put down with those heads! They are expensive, but definitely worth it if your long term goals include a supercharger or turbo. If you stay N/A and get some cams you will stills see gains, but maybe not as much as you would like for the price.

I am just going to get my heads rebuilt when the time comes, my long term goals include a supercharger putting down 450-500rwhp on a rebuilt engine with forged internals. If that proves to be too expensive I will rebuild without forged internals and aim for 380-400rwhp.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-28-2014 Thread Starter
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Ya, he should me the highest run he did which was 259 and he said it was pinging at that so he bumped it down. Then he was telling me about the oil so I asked how much timing was I away from that 259 and he said 3 degrees. I think if my car can actually make 259 on a mustang dyno it would be a beast that would be somewhere around 290 on a dyno jet. also fuel filter is good didn't replace it that long ago. I run 93 octane from exxon.

how much would it cost to get my heads rebuilt do you know? if its even half the price of the tfs I'll probably just wait until then.

Ya, I'm shooting for at least 500rwhp. Anything more than that will just be a bonus

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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