2002 mustang gt jolting and bucking - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014 Thread Starter
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2002 mustang gt jolting and bucking

I'm desperately trying to figure out what's wrong with this stang because I love it to death. When going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse it jolts really hard. If I'm coming up to a red light that turns green (don't make complete stop before stepping on gas) I'll get a jolt then too. I do have a noise in the back but I have determined it to be a Lower control arm. Ive done all mounts already. I don't have any tranny problems. What could this possibly be? I know my rear suspension is in need of a little upgrading which is next on my list but I'm not sure that would be causing the jolting.

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-27-2014
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My first guess would be the transmission. Just asking. How can you tell its not the tranny?

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014 Thread Starter
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Tranny has been checked and serviced multiple times, shifts great in all gears. It's just going from drive to reverse or reverse to drive the car just "slams" really hard. Going into reverse the car seems to lower to the ground. To further elaborate on the picking up from a very slow start, it's almost like when you hit the gas it takes just a second to respond and when it does its that "slam" or buck feeling.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014
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What have you done to rule out U-joints?

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-29-2014 Thread Starter
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I had ruled it out because I never had any excessive vibration just a real hard buck or slam the car makes, however after reading up on it a lot of people with bad u joints have the same problems as I do, with vibration being the only difference. I was trying to convince myself it wasn't the U joint, that'll be a ***** to replace. If you do think that would be it what would you recommend as a replacement? Also what is a common mileage for these to go bad? I'm still under 70k
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014
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U-joints are easy to replace. Recommend renting the press from your local auto parts store. I have found that one of the keys is to DOUBLE check the new bearings are being pushed in straight. I have broken a good yoke by stupidly using a bent press in an attempt to force them in. Note to self. Pressing U-joints does require some force but when the tool starts to bend, STOP. Something is wrong.

As far as when to expect U-joints to fail, how has the car been driven?

What else have you done to rule out bad motor mounts and transmission mounts? The Mustang is hard on motor mounts especially a manual transmission Mustang.

I had a 96 Mustang GT with broken motor mounts. When the mounts were replaced it was amazing how much higher in the K-member the motor sat. It was also unexpected how much the ride improved.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014 Thread Starter
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The car is driven lightly and never raced. Hardly has ever seen 3k rpm. It's not the mounts I've already done motor and transmission mounts and it stiffened it but didn't fix the problem I've been trying to figure out. The more I read about people having failing u joints the more I think that may be the problem. I took it out today and noticed that when it does make the bucking feeling there is a clunk from the rear. This will probably be a costly thing since I would replace the driveshaft while it's off, so hopefully it will fix the problem. Is shy of 70k miles a normal lifespan for a u joint on an easily driven stang?
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014
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If $$ are an issue, why are you replacing the drive shaft? What's wrong with it? This risk taking a less than $50 repair and multiplying it several times.

Consider that Ford balanced the drive shaft as an assembly when the car left the factory. Any replacement drive shaft won't have such a benefit. Remember to match mark all of the pieces and put it back together the same way.

2003 GT Convertible (sold & missed)
2000 GT coupe (Craigslist project. Fixed. Now my DD). Windsor to Romeo swap.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-30-2014 Thread Starter
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Would you consider keeping it rather than getting an aluminum one? I figured I might as well go for
The aluminum while I can.

And to further add to the list of symptoms to help confirm it is in fact the U joint, when it is put into drive and bucks it's almost as if the rear end shakes back and forth a few really fast times, like a dogs tail.

Thanks for the input!

Last edited by 85gtman; 10-01-2014 at 01:53 AM.
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