1996 Mustang Automatic to Manual Swap. What parts are required? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2014 Thread Starter
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1996 Mustang Automatic to Manual Swap. What parts are required?

I am new to Mustangs so pardon my lack of knowledge. My girlfriends son just picked up a 96 V6 5-spd that has a complete 4.6 GT swap (motor, auto, rear) and we would like to now swap the automatic to a 5-speed. Clutch pedals are still in the car so that isn't a problem. Are the cross member and drive shaft the same for the automatic or will we need to swap that as well? The previous owner gave a us a 5-speed trans, flywheel and clutch with the car that he was going to swap but never did. Also how do I identify if this is the correct trans and flywheel or not?

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Scott

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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2014
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It depends on if the engine is a Romeo or Windsor. What year is the engine built? If you don't know that, count the amount of bolts on the valve covers, I believe Romeo engines has 13 bolts per side, while Windsor has 11 bolts per side. When we know which engine it is we will be able to tell you if the clutch is right or wrong (6-bolt or 8-bolt crankshaft).

As long as you have the clutch pedal assembly, all you will need is a clutch cable and clutch cable quadrant. I assume the 5 speed transmission is complete with the clutch fork, if not you will need one. Make sure to use a brand new Ford throwout bearing!

As for the driveshaft, online people will tell you the 4R70W (Auto) and 5-speed transmission have different driveshafts; WRONG. The driveshafts are exactly the same, the only difference is in the yoke. You will get away with replacing the slip yoke that goes into the transmission, which is 1/3rd of the price of a new driveshaft. The slip yoke for a 5-speed is about half an inch shorter and is 31 spline, while the auto has the longer yoke with 28 splines. If the money is there you might as well get a new aluminum driveshaft though, that way you get less drivetrain loss, a stronger driveshaft, and brand new u-joints.

If money is an issue, then go to a junk yard and pull off the driveshaft from another 5-speed Mustang GT. (96-04).


2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-02-2014 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply...Romeo 11 bolts.
What about the cross member, same for automatic and manual?

And yes the clutch/brake pedals are still in the car in fact still using the neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal to start the car.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014
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Crossmembers are the same between all V6/GT/auto/manual.

You will need the manual trans harness and computer tuning either way. You could either swap to a factory manual computer but then you'd need to disable PATS anti theft since your key chips won't match the computer. Or you can get a custom chip that disables all the auto trans parameters on your computer and make it perform the same as a manual computer.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by metalman302 View Post
Crossmembers are the same between all V6/GT/auto/manual.

You will need the manual trans harness and computer tuning either way. You could either swap to a factory manual computer but then you'd need to disable PATS anti theft since your key chips won't match the computer. Or you can get a custom chip that disables all the auto trans parameters on your computer and make it perform the same as a manual computer.
So when the GT 4.6 swap was done the computer was changed I'm assuming? The car was a V6 5-SPD car originally now its a 4.6 Auto. The key chip currently does match obviously since the car runs but clutch pedal needs to be pressed to start the car. I know the original owner had plans to put the a 5-Spd back in the car so he left the clutch pedals and neutral safety switch in place. Do you think they swapped the computer, ignition, and locks from the GT donor car?

The trans that they gave us with the car is a Tremec CCCA1271AG ? ...TR3650 or T-45?
The ID tag has a bunch of numbers:
TCET1789 AB CC081
2R33 7003 AC 16880
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott89TTA View Post
So when the GT 4.6 swap was done the computer was changed I'm assuming? The car was a V6 5-SPD car originally now its a 4.6 Auto. The key chip currently does match obviously since the car runs but clutch pedal needs to be pressed to start the car. I know the original owner had plans to put the a 5-Spd back in the car so he left the clutch pedals and neutral safety switch in place. Do you think they swapped the computer, ignition, and locks from the GT donor car?

The trans that they gave us with the car is a Tremec CCCA1271AG ? ...TR3650 or T-45?
The ID tag has a bunch of numbers:
TCET1789 AB CC081
2R33 7003 AC 16880
Have you ever tried starting it without depressing the clutch pedal to confirm the switch is actually active? The computers are way different between a V6 and GT, so it must have been replaced. He might have got a computer from a donor car with a 5-speed, and had a tuner make a custom, temporary tune for it. If he used the computer from an auto the clutch pedal and neutral safety switch will not be in the software at all, therefore making them useless and non-functional as the car sits now.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014
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The NSS system is actually in the tune for both cars. In a stick you have the pedal switch and in the auto it's part of the "transmission range sensor". The EEC just sees the circuit open or closed. Same pin. In an auto car, the pedal sensor wiring would be there but would have a jumper in it.

For the PATS, the chip sensor is in the column, separate from the cylinder. So yes they could have swapped the GT lock cylinder very easily or just had the V6 cylinder rekeyed. The "could" have just kept your V6 key and zip tied the GT key up inside the column. This is what they do when they install a remote start on a newer car. Finally they could have had the EEC reflashed to defeat PATS. I know of a well known tuner that you could mail your EEC to and he could reflash it and delete PATS and covert to manual at the same time. Then no chips to worry about

Decipha @ EFIDynoTuning / Index
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