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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-03-2014 Thread Starter
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Mustang Wheel Squeak

I just recently change my front and rear brakes on my 2003 Mustang a couple of weeks ago. I used brake grease. But recently bout a few days ago my drivers side front wheel will squeak. It isn't a constant squeak either more like "squeak squeak squeak" every time the wheel has a full rotate it will squeak once. It won't do it straight away either about driving for a few minutes then it'll start to do it after everything gets warmed up. Also as soon as I put any pressure on my brakes its gone. I was thinking maybe brake dust or dirt got trapped so I cleaned it and had no luck. anyone got any other ideas?


2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014
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Most likely caliper dragging a little. Usually taking it apart and clean up/regrease the pins (don't use too much grease) will do. Inspect them as well; if there are any flat spots or irregular wear then replace.



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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014
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Did you get the rotors resurfaced? If you reused the old rotors without resurfacing them that might cause a squeak until the brake pads are properly worn to the same pattern. SoCal pretty much got you covered otherwise.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCal2V View Post
Most likely caliper dragging a little. Usually taking it apart and clean up/regrease the pins (don't use too much grease) will do. Inspect them as well; if there are any flat spots or irregular wear then replace.
where are the pins that I should regrease?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-04-2014 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DJAlsip View Post
Did you get the rotors resurfaced? If you reused the old rotors without resurfacing them that might cause a squeak until the brake pads are properly worn to the same pattern. SoCal pretty much got you covered otherwise.
No I took it to the shop after I did my brakes and they said there wasn't enough meat left on them. So i plan on replacing them after the winter

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014
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No I took it to the shop after I did my brakes and they said there wasn't enough meat left on them. So i plan on replacing them after the winter
That would explain the noise as the wheel would turn 1 full rotation. The brake pads have shims on the back of them to reduce brake noises. Whenever a rotor is not perfectly round (warped) the brakes will have issues such as shaking while braking, squealing, and other noises. When you replace the rotors also replace the pads again as the pads will now be formed to match the old rotor and not last long with new rotors.

2003 Mustang GT Convertible 5 speed - Mostly stock 4.6... 455 rwhp and 573 ft/lbs torque. (SOLD due to divorce)

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014
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That would explain the noise as the wheel would turn 1 full rotation. The brake pads have shims on the back of them to reduce brake noises. Whenever a rotor is not perfectly round (warped) the brakes will have issues such as shaking while braking, squealing, and other noises. When you replace the rotors also replace the pads again as the pads will now be formed to match the old rotor and not last long with new rotors.
They do not necessarily need to be warped to cause a squeal/chirp every revolution. An uneven wear pattern is sometimes enough to do that when combined with new pads. You are right though, when the OP goes to replace or resurface the rotors he must replace the pads again, which is why it is often a good idea to do both at the same time the first time around.

2003 Mustang GT
Intake & Exhaust: K&N FIPK CAI, Mac O/R H-Pipe, Custom Catback w/ Magnaflow Magnapack Mufflers.
Suspension: H&R Super Sport Springs, KONI STR.T Shocks & Struts, J&M Caster Camber Plates, Steeda Bumpsteer Kit, UPR Elite LCA's & UCA's.
Performance: BAMA 93R Custom Tune, FRPP 4.10 Gears w/ Terminator spec T-Lok.
Planned Mods: FLSFC, Eibach Sway Bars, Throttle Body, Plenum, Rims.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014 Thread Starter
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why would it only do it after I drive around for about 10-15 minutes? At start up it wont make any noise.

a side question what are the chances if I replace my rotors before the winter that they will start to rust before it is over? The company sells them with black paint covering everything besides where the brakes touch the rotors.

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-05-2014 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJAlsip View Post
They do not necessarily need to be warped to cause a squeal/chirp every revolution. An uneven wear pattern is sometimes enough to do that when combined with new pads. You are right though, when the OP goes to replace or resurface the rotors he must replace the pads again, which is why it is often a good idea to do both at the same time the first time around.
brakes look like they are wearing down the same the only thing I could see was two things one my brake pad retainer clip was broke I just fixed that no luck also my rotor has a deep scratch going all the way around it I looked at my brake pad and around it and didn't see anything that would of caused that maybe some my last pair? not sure

Also there was some play wiggling my wheel left and right but not up and down is that normal or is that a problem of the wheel bearing or ball joint?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-06-2014 Thread Starter
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2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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Originally Posted by Ninjacheezit View Post
brakes look like they are wearing down the same the only thing I could see was two things one my brake pad retainer clip was broke I just fixed that no luck also my rotor has a deep scratch going all the way around it I looked at my brake pad and around it and didn't see anything that would of caused that maybe some my last pair? not sure

Also there was some play wiggling my wheel left and right but not up and down is that normal or is that a problem of the wheel bearing or ball joint?

Side to side movement could be a tie rod end or ball joint. Have someone else lightly shake the tire for you and you look at the parts to see what is moving. If you cant find it then grab ahold of the tie rod end or ball joint, you should feel the movement then.

2003 Mustang GT Convertible 5 speed - Mostly stock 4.6... 455 rwhp and 573 ft/lbs torque. (SOLD due to divorce)

Currently working on Coyote Swap of a 2004 GT
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 10-07-2014 Thread Starter
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I noticed my brakes don't easily slide in the retainer clips. Could this be a problem?

2003 Mustang GT Auto - Airaid CAI, Kooks Long Tube Headers, Kooks Catless X-Pipe, SLP Loudmouth Exhaust 1, 4.10 Gears, BBK 78mm Throttle Body Upper Intake Combo, 100 Shot NX Plate Kit, Dyno Tune

Suspension - 4 Cylinder Front Springs, Stock Rear Springs, Team Z CC Plates, Strange 10-way Adjustable Shocks and Struts.

241rwhp and 301tq on Mustang Dyno(outdated new #s coming soon)
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