Ford Mustang Forum - View Single Post - Anyone with Shaker 500/SYNC used the PAC audio interface?
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post #18 of (permalink) Old 06-13-2013
Grampstang
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MCA2011 View Post
Gramp, thanks agin. I saw those schematics, but they don't seem to provide any that show the HU, 5x7s and subs/sub amp together.

Here's what I think I want to have done.

1. Use PAC interface to avoid needing to hack & splice the factory wiring / harness.

2. Run PAC RCA and remote on to amp being mounted in the trunk. Also run power from battery to amp

3. Pull the stock wiring harnesses from the rear speakers and run the speaker outs from amp directly to rear speakers.

4. Run front speaker outs back to PAC unit and splice into PAC harness's front speaker leads, which as i understand should seamlessly tap the amp into the front speakers. This is the step I am unsure about and assumes the 4F/R speakers are powered directly from the HU. I have been unable to verify if the Shaker 500 uses an outboard full range amp, but as far as I can tell it does not and is integrated in the head unit. So if this assumption is correct, this should get the job done without cutting a single factory wire.

As you note, you will not have to cut into any part of your Mustangís wiring. Remember, the PAC harness plugs in between the carís wiring harness and the head unit. As a result, the PAC harness simply carries all of the signals that the carís harness sends to the head unit. The OEM-1 unit sends the front and rear speaker signals (at LINE LEVEL - NOT - at SPEAKER LEVEL) to the amp. Therefore, all of the cutting is made to the PAC harness. You just have to cut the four front speaker wires (RF+, RF-, LF+ and L F- only) of the PAC Harness (ON THE RETURN SIDE - AFTER THE OEM -1 UNIT). The audio signal for the front and rear speakers will be feed to the AMP from the output side of the OEM-1 unit via RCA cables. These RCA cables will be plugged into the ampís front and rear inputs.

As you noted, the rear speakers will be disconnected from the carís wire harness and will then be driven directly from the rear outputs from the new amp. NOTE: Since the rear speaker wires from the carís harness are eventually disconnected, it isnít necessary to cut the corresponding rear speaker wires on the PAC harness. Just make sure you isolate the carís harness rear speaker connections so they donít short out.

The front speakers will be splice connected to the PAC harness at the cut point that was made in the harness. The right and left front speaker outputs (speaker wire from the amp) will be spliced to the cut point in the PAC Harness (obviously on the side closest to the speaker). Isolate the unused side of the wire at the PAC Harness cut point to avoid a short.

Remember that the front door subs are still being independently driven by their own amp and are still being controlled by the head unitís volume control.

Note that the OEM-1 Unit provides an amp turn on signal to the new amp via one of its pin outs.

The issue at this point is which wires on the PAC harness need to be cut. Unfortunately, I donít have those details with me as I am in Germany and will not be home for a couple of more weeks. As I previously noted, I have all of the car harness audio wires pinned out in diagrams with the corresponding PAC Harness wires.

Once the system is wired, the OEM-1 controls have to be adjusted to make sure the correct level is being sent to the amp without causing distortion. But thatís another consideration. Just make sure that the output signal from the OEM-1 is sufficient enough or you wonít get any sound from the speakers (turn the controls up about half way to begin).

Basically, thatís it. Sorry, but this is the best I can do from where Iím at and with my old memory.

2011 Kona V6 Auto, Premium, 3.31 Rear End, Pony Package, NAV System Electronics Package, Comfort Package, Security Package, Remote Start, Rear Video Camera, Deck Lid Panel, Quarter Window Louvers, Side Scoops.

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