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DrockinWV 08-11-2019 11:14 AM

Getting started
 
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Hey all!

New to the forum, and looking to gain advise and help along this journey. My wife bought a 1994 black Mustang 5.0 back when she was 18 in 2008. Drove for around 5 years, and it has now sat for the past 5 or 6. The car originally needed a new clutch, which was never taken care of, and the main reason for sitting. I do not know the exact mileage on the car, but I believe it to be around 180k. I know with it sitting for so long the fuel is most likely bad, and we will have to replace most if not all of the fuel system. Other than that the car is in decent shape, and should not need too much work. But don't really know what all it will need until we get it into our garage and start checking it out.

Going to start searching the internet and this forum for others that have had a similar build for ideas and to make sure we do not miss the small things. The car is currently at her parents house in MD, that is about a 2.5 hour drive. We plan to rent a trailer in a few weeks and tow it back to our place here in WV. Until then we are going to start our planning and budget stage of the project. Anyone that has some advice or links for similar build (or parts) would be greatly appreciated for the share!!

90lxwhite 08-12-2019 11:02 PM

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I have/had a real similar build. I have a ‘95 that my dad got in late ‘95. It set awhile and I had the motor rebuilt. It didn’t sit long enough to cause damage to the fuel system though. It still has the original pump but the injectors were replacead during the rebuild.
I’d give it a tune up, plugs, wires, etc, drain the gas add fresh and see what happens. Don’t forget a new battery. Maybe it’ll fire right up. A new fuel filter would be a good idea prior to starting it the first time. Change the oil and coolant prior to starting. When you get it running do a coolant flush.
As for the clutch I’d go ahead and get the best one I could afford. I had a stock replacement put in when I had the motor rebuilt and it was ok. But years later I added 130 extra horsepower and the stock clutch gave way so I had to buy a “beefier one.” The second time around I bought a Centerforcr dual friction clutch and it’s been pretty good. It’ll hold a decent amount of power but it’s not too tough on your leg. You’ll also want to replace the throwout bearing. I recommend the Ford motorsports. Nice wheels.
Oh and watch out for rats and chewed wiring..
https://www.centerforce.com/articles...SAAEgLr7_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-D.../dp/B000CIQQZS

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...ring-7904.html

imps 08-12-2019 11:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lxwhite (Post 9242509)
I have/had a real similar build. I have a ‘95 that my dad got in late ‘95. It set awhile and I had the motor rebuilt. It didn’t sit long enough to cause damage to the fuel system though. It still has the original pump but the injectors were replacead during the rebuild.
I’d give it a tune up, plugs, wires, etc, drain the gas add fresh and see what happens. Don’t forget a new battery. Maybe it’ll fire right up. A new fuel filter would be a good idea prior to starting it the first time. Change the oil and coolant prior to starting. When you get it running do a coolant flush.
As for the clutch I’d go ahead and get the best one I could afford. I had a stock replacement put in when I had the motor rebuilt and it was ok. But years later I added 130 extra horsepower and the stock clutch gave way so I had to buy a “beefier one.” The second time around I bought a Centerforcr dual friction clutch and it’s been pretty good. It’ll hold a decent amount of power but it’s not too tough on your leg. You’ll also want to replace the throwout bearing. I recommend the Ford motorsports. Nice wheels.
Oh and watch out for rats and chewed wiring..
https://www.centerforce.com/articles...SAAEgLr7_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-D.../dp/B000CIQQZS

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...ring-7904.html

Very little need be replaced in the fuel system. I would begin by removing the fuel tank and it's guts, discarding the pump, and blow out the fuel lines using compressed air and toluene. Pressurize via the delivery line at the tank, being careful of fire. Injectors are likely usable. However, such long-time dis-use can result in deterioration of fuel line and injector seals, so replacing all O-rings would be a good idea; pitch the old fuel filter. If she starts up, have a fuel pressure gauge available to check that the pressure regulator is operating properly; it contains a diaphragm susceptible to deterioration.

The suggestion to look for vermin-induced damage is certainly a good one.

90lxwhite 08-13-2019 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by imps (Post 9242517)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lxwhite (Post 9242509)
I have/had a real similar build. I have a ‘95 that my dad got in late ‘95. It set awhile and I had the motor rebuilt. It didn’t sit long enough to cause damage to the fuel system though. It still has the original pump but the injectors were replacead during the rebuild.
I’d give it a tune up, plugs, wires, etc, drain the gas add fresh and see what happens. Don’t forget a new battery. Maybe it’ll fire right up. A new fuel filter would be a good idea prior to starting it the first time. Change the oil and coolant prior to starting. When you get it running do a coolant flush.
As for the clutch I’d go ahead and get the best one I could afford. I had a stock replacement put in when I had the motor rebuilt and it was ok. But years later I added 130 extra horsepower and the stock clutch gave way so I had to buy a “beefier one.” The second time around I bought a Centerforcr dual friction clutch and it’s been pretty good. It’ll hold a decent amount of power but it’s not too tough on your leg. You’ll also want to replace the throwout bearing. I recommend the Ford motorsports. Nice wheels.
Oh and watch out for rats and chewed wiring..
https://www.centerforce.com/articles...SAAEgLr7_D_BwE

https://www.amazon.com/Centerforce-D.../dp/B000CIQQZS

https://www.americanmuscle.com/ford-...ring-7904.html

Very little need be replaced in the fuel system. I would begin by removing the fuel tank and it's guts, discarding the pump, and blow out the fuel lines using compressed air and toluene. Pressurize via the delivery line at the tank, being careful of fire. Injectors are likely usable. However, such long-time dis-use can result in deterioration of fuel line and injector seals, so replacing all O-rings would be a good idea; pitch the old fuel filter. If she starts up, have a fuel pressure gauge available to check that the pressure regulator is operating properly; it contains a diaphragm susceptible to deterioration.

The suggestion to look for vermin-induced damage is certainly a good one.

Why not blow from the motor towards the tank? Seems like one would rather blow debris away from the engine.
If you get a new fuel pump a high volume pump wouldn’t be a bad idea if money allowed. Same scenario as the clutch. A “big” pump is around $100. Walboro gss340 is a good one.

imps 08-13-2019 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lxwhite (Post 9242545)
Why not blow from the motor towards the tank? Seems like one would rather blow debris away from the engine.
If you get a new fuel pump a high volume pump wouldn’t be a bad idea if money allowed. Same scenario as the clutch. A “big” pump is around $100. Walboro gss340 is a good one.

I assume both tubes at both ends are disconnected, so blowing either way would work, EXCEPT, the flow through the pressure regulator is in the direction such that best movement through the system would be from tank to fuel rail and then back to tank.

90lxwhite 08-14-2019 12:15 AM

404 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by imps (Post 9242615)
Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lxwhite (Post 9242545)
Why not blow from the motor towards the tank? Seems like one would rather blow debris away from the engine.
If you get a new fuel pump a high volume pump wouldn’t be a bad idea if money allowed. Same scenario as the clutch. A “big” pump is around $100. Walboro gss340 is a good one.

I assume both tubes at both ends are disconnected, so blowing either way would work, EXCEPT, the flow through the pressure regulator is in the direction such that best movement through the system would be from tank to fuel rail and then back to tank.

Ah yeah, the regulator. Got ya. It’d take some serious pressure I think to make all the bends, then through the rail with the regulator on it (feed line) then though the rail that supplies the return. Probably better off disconnecting the return at the wheel well and at the tank and blowing that way and the feed in the same manner.

imps 08-15-2019 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 90lxwhite (Post 9242621)
Ah yeah, the regulator. Got ya. It’d take some serious pressure I think to make all the bends, then through the rail with the regulator on it (feed line) then though the rail that supplies the return. Probably better off disconnecting the return at the wheel well and at the tank and blowing that way and the feed in the same manner.

Sure, that works! Remember, the pump develops somewhere around 30 to 50 psi, and can push 100 liters of fuel through there in an hour, rough figures. An air hose might push 100 psi, still not enough to hurt anything. Just like your garden hose, let's say you have 50 psi water pressure at the spigot, hook a mile-long hose to it, almost nothing will come out the far end. 100 feet, pretty good. 10 feet, almost the same as spigot with no hose. Works the same for the fuel system. Some pressure is lost traveling through the lines, some across the filter, some across the regulator, so the pump is always delivering a bit more than the gauge measures at the Schrader valve.


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