Voltage Regulator - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 51 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
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Voltage Regulator

Finally took my car to an auto parts store to test the electrical system.

Battery - ok
Alternator - Ok
Voltage regulator - ok...UNTIL I turned on the lights, AC, and radio, then it registered as FAIL.

I got it tested at both OíReillyís and Auto zone; same results.

My question is - whatís the logical next step?

ALSO - I think my digital volt gauge is out of cal. Does that matter? Why would it be like that? (it will read about .8 volts lower than what the store readers and my Schumacher charger/reader says).

(this could very well be why I have a hard time starting the more I drive the cat throughout the day, no?).




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Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Finally took my car to an auto parts store to test the electrical system.

Battery - ok
Alternator - Ok
Voltage regulator - ok...UNTIL I turned on the lights, AC, and radio, then it registered as FAIL.

I got it tested at both O’Reilly’s and Auto zone; same results.

My question is - what’s the logical next step?

ALSO - I think my digital volt gauge is out of cal. Does that matter? Why would it be like that? (it will read about .8 volts lower than what the store readers and my Schumacher charger/reader says).

(this could very well be why I have a hard time starting the more I drive the cat throughout the day, no?).




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Is yours a “police package” Mustang” that has the voltage regulator separate from the alternator? Or is regular where the regulator is part of the alternator? Time for a new alternator if it’s the latter I think.
*Edit*
First off, what year is this thing?

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Personally I'd upgrade to a 130 amp alt.


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Is yours a ďpolice packageĒ MustangĒ that has the voltage regulator separate from the alternator? Or is regular where the regulator is part of the alternator? Time for a new alternator if itís the latter I think.
*Edit*
First off, what year is this thing?


Itís a Ď65 with the M-6007-x302 crate motor. Haha, so no, not the police package.
I canít tell the specs of the current alternator - itís chrome to match the dress up of the rest of the accessories...which in my mind is ďall for show, not for go.Ē Def not external regulator.


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Personally I'd upgrade to a 130 amp alt.


Thatís what I was thinking, just wasnít sure if there were a bunch of troubleshooting steps I needed to take to verify and then remedy.

130 amp alt - any recommendations or vendors?

Iíve got a/c, fog lights, 900w amp, retro auto sound head unit, plug my iPhone into the USB port for the stereo, electric windows, EFI.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Thatís what I was thinking, just wasnít sure if there were a bunch of troubleshooting steps I needed to take to verify and then remedy.

130 amp alt - any recommendations or vendors?

Iíve got a/c, fog lights, 900w amp, retro auto sound head unit, plug my iPhone into the USB port for the stereo, electric windows, EFI.


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I've always used "PA Performance Mustang Alternator - 130 Amp 1619" I've also had A/C, fog lights with two amps pushing 1,500 watts. I also paired it with an Optima Yellow top battery, no fluctuation or dimming of the headlights with this setup.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/130am...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...lowtop-battery
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I've always used "PA Performance Mustang Alternator - 130 Amp 1619" I've also had A/C, fog lights with two amps pushing 1,500 watts. I also paired it with an Optima Yellow top battery, no fluctuation or dimming of the headlights with this setup.



https://www.americanmuscle.com/130am...E&gclsrc=aw.ds



https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-u...lowtop-battery


Cool, thanks. How hard is that to put in? I can do most stuff with my car, I just need directions. But I also donít have a big garage that I can just lay parts out in. All my work is done in the driveway and I pull the car back in at night.

I actually went to look at replacing my red top with a yellow this weekend, but my warranty was up, so I figured I kill the alligator closest to the canoe first with the alternator.
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Ah yeah, the '65. I have the PA Performance 130 amp and it allegedly puts out more amps than the OEM 3g 130 amp that came stock on my car. However, I can't tell any difference between that one and a remanufactured unit it replaced. Here's a write up someone did on putting a 3g into a '65. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/thre...equest.596668/
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Cool, thanks. How hard is that to put in? I can do most stuff with my car, I just need directions. But I also donít have a big garage that I can just lay parts out in. All my work is done in the driveway and I pull the car back in at night.

I actually went to look at replacing my red top with a yellow this weekend, but my warranty was up, so I figured I kill the alligator closest to the canoe first with the alternator.
It's fairly simple and the instructions are straight forward, here's a video




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Originally Posted by my89foxbody View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Cool, thanks. How hard is that to put in? I can do most stuff with my car, I just need directions. But I also don’t have a big garage that I can just lay parts out in. All my work is done in the driveway and I pull the car back in at night.

I actually went to look at replacing my red top with a yellow this weekend, but my warranty was up, so I figured I kill the alligator closest to the canoe first with the alternator.
It's fairly simple and the instructions are straight forward, here's a video


His is going in a ‘65.
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post #11 of 51 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
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His is going in a Ď65.


Is that bad? :-|.

Is there much thatís different? I think everything is still mounted in the same place (safe the tensioner)

Iím just super afraid of getting it out and not being able to get the new one back in.

Just out curiosity, (since it doesnít say anywhere on the actual alt), is there a way to tell the output of the alternator that I currently have?


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Ah yeah, the '65. I have the PA Performance 130 amp and it allegedly puts out more amps than the OEM 3g 130 amp that came stock on my car. However, I can't tell any difference between that one and a remanufactured unit it replaced. Here's a write up someone did on putting a 3g into a '65. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/thre...equest.596668/


Good stuff...

If it makes any difference, Iíve got the Painless Electrical System (not the original Ď65 wiring).


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Quote:
Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Ah yeah, the '65. I have the PA Performance 130 amp and it allegedly puts out more amps than the OEM 3g 130 amp that came stock on my car. However, I can't tell any difference between that one and a remanufactured unit it replaced. Here's a write up someone did on putting a 3g into a '65. https://www.vintage-mustang.com/thre...equest.596668/


Good stuff...

If it makes any difference, I’ve got the Painless Electrical System (not the original ‘65 wiring).


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Man, I’ve never done it and electrical really isn’t my bag. Here’s some stuff you may or may not need though... Surely one of the electricians will stop in soon.
https://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/

That “how to” link wasn’t that good. The pictures didn’t work. I wonder about the bracket? Will the 3g slide on in?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CUAviator View Post
Is that bad? :-|.

Is there much thatís different? I think everything is still mounted in the same place (safe the tensioner)

Iím just super afraid of getting it out and not being able to get the new one back in.

Just out curiosity, (since it doesnít say anywhere on the actual alt), is there a way to tell the output of the alternator that I currently have?


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Can you post a picture of the current alternator?


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post #15 of 51 (permalink) Old 6 Days Ago Thread Starter
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Can you post a picture of the current alternator?


Yep, on my way out to work Iíll snap a pic.

As for voltage regulators, I know they fail - but is there anything in general that MAKES them fail? Incorrect belt tension, improper grounding, parasitic draw, constant battery depletion (leaving lights on over night), etc???


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