What to look for when buying a used Fox Mustang - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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just take your time. do all the above, but if your on a budget I know its hard to find a clean one for around 2500 to 3k. I did you just have to be patient. To it depends on what your plans are., for the car someone who wants to restore it or just buy and drive. The most important aspect in my opinion would be structural integrity. Make sure its not welded back together. open the doors and look into the fender and around the door jams while the doors are open push up and down on them make sure there isnt any excessive play, check the front and rear sub frames for cracks or separation from body of car, check floor boards for any abnormal bumps. It would be a great deal if you had someone that knows what to look for to go with you if you don't know what to look for.


90 lx: currently revamping drive train
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Grinding synchros in an abused t-5 transmission. Strut towers that have holes rusted all the way through. Any kind of wiring issues because with all of the extra fuel injection wires and controls these cars can become a nightmare when the wiring becomes old and brittle and you are always chasing problems. Leaking factory sunroof or t-top cars that can rot out the floorboards below. Beware of cars that have a fresh coat of undercoating that might be covering up rust. If the car was in a front end collision make sure that the damage was in front of the strut tower area and not severe enough to push behind it because this can lead to more serious alignment issues. Minor issues in the interior are the power window , locks and ash tray lid but these parts are easy to replace along with the plastic trim that covers the back of the hatch on the inside that always comes loose and the trim above your head where the back passenger sits that always pulls loose. The passenger side interior quarter trim past the seatbelt holder seems to develop a crack in the hatch models. I guess this is from hard launches over a long period of time.

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rust under the door finden a fox in pa with out rust under the door is almost impossible but i hear thats a big problem in general thats just my 2 cents

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I would say trim pieces. Try to find a car that has a complete interior that is in good condition. You will spend a lot of time and money trying to track down these parts. This is especially true if you are looking to buy a convertible.

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if you buy a car from a dealer, make sure nothing shady was done, the owners of alot of these places only worry about the money, so check to see if any thing has been replaced with cheap stuff, metal fuel lines replaced with rubber and so on.

1993 lx hatch, 5 speed, all stock except american muscle cai, flowmaster mufflers, hids and a pro 5.0 shifter, more to come soon.
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Be extra careful if you buy a mustang with aftermarket gears because alot of people try to do this swap and fail to set the pinion depth or backlash properly resulting in you buying new gears and paying to have them installed properly.
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well they said it for me, check the tourque boxes and make sure it wasnt twisted, everything else is nickles and dimes, oh and man hours...lol
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check floor rear seat floor boards,door weatherstripping tends to leak if old and rots floor boards.
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On the notch backs check the rear window corners hey collect water and rust then leak and make sure that it has the correct motor for the year so you dont do what i did buy a mustang you thought had the 86 5.0 HO and find out it had a 83 f-150 302 and stay away from CFI you will get nothing out of it and be better to swap to a carb like i am
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wen i was looking for my fox i checked under it for rust and checked the tranny and rear and made sure the frame wasnt bent, prolly one of the most common things with these cars
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the frame must be straight with minimal rust. check for signs of an accident and the sheet metal usually gives by the top corners of the front windshield and by the top rear corners of the back side windows. even stock set ups can cause stress marks and bent frames after 20 years. everything else your gonna end up wanting to upgrade anyway. the frame is the only thing that matters.
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Not a big deal but i noticed the top of the dash panels is rotted out in alot of foxes. Id also check and make sure the alternator is charging sufficiantly. Ive had to replace that less then a couple months after i bought both of the foxbodies ive had.

Present
2001 Mustang GT "Mock 1" - 5-Speed, 03 Mach 1 Swap, 98 Cobra Intake Cam Swap, BBK CAI & Longtube Headers w/ H-Pipe 302 rwhp / 310 ft-lbs
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1981-82 Mustang Cobra/GT T-Top

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check door weatherstrip and gauges, and headgasket

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In convertibles, check the wind shield. They are notorious for cracking due to body flex. Also make sure fusible links are not partially melted. Check the brake master cylinder for low brake fluid levels and transparency of the fluid. Unfortunately, my '85 has these problems.

1985 Mustang GT conv. underdrive pulleys, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end. 235,000+ miles. Running with 17 degrees of initial timing.

1996 Thunderbird LX stock 4.6L V8. MAC cold air. 225/60/15 BFG g-Force Sport V-rated. J-moded 4r70W. 172 rwhp 240 rwtq
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Yes,the big thing take your time,check for rust,wiring problems avoid!,make sure the engine isn't knocking,these are strong 302's so someone was beating it to death if it's knocking.I have a rag top so check make sure pump and motor are working for top,expensive to replace.If it's clean straight, running good,minor stuff is cheap enough to replace.Don't fall in love with the first one!.


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