What to look for when buying a used Fox Mustang - Page 5 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85saleenclone View Post
broken driver side seat frame, not a really big deal, but a pain
The lumbar on my driverside seat is messed up as well

Under carriage rust
Warping plastic rear bumpers
Excessive Rattleing, expecially in the Convertible
Convertiple top and piston problems
Windows on the convertibles don line up right when putting the top up
Convertible leaks
Power windows Door locks fail
Windows fall of track
Ashtray door on the console breaks, very common
Discolored / fogged Head lamps


1990 Mustang GT 5.0 Convertible

Last edited by Snackmaster; 07-03-2012 at 02:21 PM. Reason: merged back to back posts
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front shock towers rusting out where they meet the frame...ive seen 100's of them

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Make sure the A-Hole you're buying the car from has the title and take a gander at it before you make the purchase, or you'll wait 3 mos for the owner to get his head out of his rear and finally get it out of lean and fork it over. This happened to me on mine!!! The guy was a serious idiot, and shady as h3ll. Tells me over the phone he has the title in hand, then go to pick it up, all the sudden no title. I have it now though.
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What do u mean....torque boxes?
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door hing not workin how surpose to
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If you live in the northeast...strut towers are almost always rusted thru.
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Check for rust under the hood by the strut towers where the a frame bolts to the subframe. I dont know why but for some reason mine is rusted out there but the rest of the car is rust free. I have to pull the engine in the spring to have the autobody guy fix it

No motor, K&N Filter, Hypertech chip, National Drivetrain 3.73s, shift kit, Steeda subframe connectors, Ford Racing aluminum radiator, Chrome pony 5 stars. Coming soon: 347 stroker build in progress, Ford Racing Z heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM II intake
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Here, just look for

Look for rust under the hatch and bottom of doors....Heater core is [email protected]!! Front radiator support and front frame rails to see if it has been hit.

Look at brake lines!!!!! These cars are 25+ years old. These will rot out. Trust me!!!!

Listen for engine knocks after engine is warm. Make sure to drive the car and test the overdrive on auto' s (make sure it shifts in and out) and on manuals, check the syncros as third gear will pop out and second will grind if beaten on.

THere are some good ones out there. I just got a 85 GT Convertible for $5000 (i know a little pricy) with new paint, new top, new clutch, and 70,000 miles. Guy found out he hated comvertibles!!! My gain is his loss.

Anyway, just think before leaping!!!

Don

Owner of some rare Fords!!! 1995 Thunderbird Super Coupe 5-speed...1 of 574...1963 Ford Falcon Futura Convertible & my pride and joy is.....
my 1984 Ford Mustang Gt Turbo Convertible!! 1 of 412!!!
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oil pressure if it hasnt already been said. be sure to check for oil pressure after the engine warms up as well.

1985 Regatta Blue vert 5.0- 87 5.0 shortblock, T5 transmission, Steeda Tri-ax Shifter, A/C delete, UDP's, edelbrock rpm performer intake, holley 600 4bbl carb, dual flowmaster 44's with o/r H pipe, MSD ignition, 1.72 roller rockers, Tokico HP shocks/struts, FRPP B springs, FRPP 4.10's

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does anyone make new strut towers for these cars?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danny.breaux View Post
My biggest concern when searching for mine was to try and find one that had a straight body, (no rust or any dents more than your usual parking lot dings) and a clean interior.

I think you can tell a lot about how much someone cares for their car mechanically by how much pride they take in the upkeep of the paint, and interior, etc.

I also wanted one that was "adult" driven.
This can be deceiving however, my dad for example keeps his car spotless of dirt, you look at the engine compartment and think it's right off the factory floor. Looking at his car you'd think he takes great care of it, however he never changes the oil or checks his fluid's.

However I do agree, the cleaner the car the better, more likely that they do care about the car, that was the case with mine, beautiful in (when I bought it...damn Macco paint job) and out, still running like it was brand new!

Is it a pony or a Mustang?
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Look for rust inside dooor seals.

hold on
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Exclamation

make sure the floor pans for rust, and always ask if the engine was rebuilt because usually if it was rebuilt they restart the miles so it can be 86000 after the rebuild and maybe before it had 170000 miles. also if it turns on and you hear clicking that bad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lemac View Post
just take your time. do all the above, but if your on a budget I know its hard to find a clean one for around 2500 to 3k. I did you just have to be patient. To it depends on what your plans are., for the car someone who wants to restore it or just buy and drive. The most important aspect in my opinion would be structural integrity. Make sure its not welded back together. open the doors and look into the fender and around the door jams while the doors are open push up and down on them make sure there isnt any excessive play, check the front and rear sub frames for cracks or separation from body of car, check floor boards for any abnormal bumps. It would be a great deal if you had someone that knows what to look for to go with you if you don't know what to look for.
Sage advice. I scanned Ebay, the local newspaper, craigslist, etc., for about a year before I pulled the trigger on my '83 GT. It's straight (except for 27 years worth of door dings & usual wear & tear), clean, & bone stock. For the new buyer, take your time. There's a whole lot of ragged out Mustangs out there. And, most think they are worth a whole lot more than they actually are. Funny thing though, the day after I bought it (today in fact) the harmonic balancer started acting out of balance--so, the moral is: even though you thoroughly inspect it, there's always a curve you don't expect.

2012 base GT, Grabber Blue/6MT/Brembos/3.73
2013 301A GT, Gotta Have It Green/6MT/3.31
1983 GT, Bright Red/5MT/T-Tops/3.08
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A recall on the headlight/foglight switch assembly/wiring harness inside the dash happened soon after the car was out...my car was in storage for 8 years and i found out the hard way. A 20 to 30 new harness will fix the problem of headlight wires and foglight wires melting up under the dash, but its a SOB to get to.


Im only going to say this once, keep your arms and legs in the vehicle at all times
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