What to look for when buying a used Fox Mustang - Page 9 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Originally Posted by obliterator View Post
thing to do get a low mileage clean one drive it to 250,000 sell it than buy the latest best one you can afford , why waist all yer time money effort the get buyers remorse cause ya missed somethin like a cracked frame or unibody not to mention all the effort to rebuild them.
Plus cause the value aitn there imean all day long 5.0 sin all kinds of states here in cali 3 grand cause guys beat the hooie out of em and then wanna dump em.
Just my 2 cents:smilie
I got 240,000 miles factory stock and it runs strong 1988 GT. People always ask me if it is for sale because they are very impressed with interior and body in excellent condition which looks brand new.
I tell em $5,000 and that scares them away:hihi:.
I won't part with this car of 24 years+ I have had and kept all maintenance receipts and window sticker.:kooky:
It seems to be people expect this car to be $3,500. Might as well keep her can't buy anything with $3,500.:laughlitt

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Check under the car make sure the car doesn't have damage like the subframes are all bent or check the traction boxes

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1988 GT Vortech, S-trim super charger, Edelbrock aluminum heads, JBA 1 5/8 headers, Cobra intake, E 303 cam, 500 hp,
Tokico adjustable suspension, Baer 12" disk brakes, Tremec trans, roll bar with 5 point harness, $3500 leather Recaro seats,
custom paint & perfect body, custom sound, new rear end, alt, heater core, new alarm, many more mods all with low miles, too many to list. $ 11,500 and every complaint here has been replaced!
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I would check the frame... If you have a solid frame thats most important to me because i bought a 93 from my uncle then put it on the lift and stuck a screw driver straight through the frame... NO GOOD.. So solid frame = strong base to work from.
Then check for engine knocks, Leaks and what not. Tranny slips or grinds and finally paint you wanna a decent paint job but it all depends on the work you wanna do and money you want to spend because if moneys no issue get whatever and rebuild.

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Living in NEw England the Rot is always prevelant but if you look you find the cars people who understand and put them away until after the salt is gone are. I have owned several and never dealt with bad rot. The strut towers at the edge in the engine bay are bad for rot and so is the floors. if you look you will find decent ones but also look at the drivers front tire alignment to the fender oppsed to the passenger side. I have seen a lot of launch bent cars where the drivers front is sticking out all cambered and no matter how much adjustment you have the tire is still tilting out at the top and usually the fender is out from the door as well. if you see this on a car keep looking its a bad bend.


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Shock towers, Hard or soft miles on the motor " was it a daily drivin car or a babied never left the driveway car" frame, floor pans on a fox are known for rot just like the shock towers, unaligned body panels and or body lines that may be caused by an accident. That's all I got right now

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Sorry if this has been mentioned here but find out if the clutch cable quadrant has been replaced ! That is something where the cheap plastic self-adjusting OEM part WILL fail on you eventually if you drive hard, leaving you stranded. (My car sat in the parking lot I pushed it to for 3 or 4 days before I could get the part and replace it)

Not a big deal to do the job - just find out if you have to.

Last edited by VirginMuscleMan; 11-29-2014 at 10:10 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VirginMuscleMan View Post
Sorry if this has been mentioned here but find out if the clutch cable quadrant has been replaced ! That is something where the cheap plastic self-adjusting OEM part WILL fail on you eventually if you drive hard, leaving you stranded. (My car sat in the parking lot I pushed it to for 3 or 4 days before I could get the part and replace it)

Not a big deal to do the job - just find out if you have to.
That happened to me once, luckily it broke right when I got on the freeway and I was able to power shift it in nonstop traffic just before rush hour started. When I got off the freeway, I was actually able to turn right on my exit without stopping and pull into a parking lot, where it sat for a week. Nerve racking, not knowing if traffic will cause you to have to stop and get stuck there miles from home.
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Just bought a 1985 fox about 1 year ago..
here is what i looked at..
1. Rust, i live in the rust belt, so honestly if there is any rust, there is more you just don't see..
2. Leaks, make sure you bring the car up to "really warm" make sure it doesn't leak, oil pan gaskets are typical, as are rear main seals and valve cover gaskets. Intake manifolds also leak, make sure you check the oil, look for any clouding, as it could be head gasket, or could be the intake gasket leaking, they are both simple to fix on the older 5.0 engines.
3. Smoke, a little smoke under the hood on a freshly serviced car, is different than the smoke you will get from a contact leak. if it is thin, and eventually goes away, it is likely an oil change drip on the headers..
4. Doors, check the way the doors close, make sure the doors hit the hit points correctly, and don't sag, this isn't horrible to fix, but will show if the car has been beaten on. (Chassis flex).
5. Convertibles, Check the top, the top itself is about 1200, but the frame, and motor are a real pain to fix, so make sure they work correctly.
6. Convertibles, Put the top down a little, so the top is sticking straight up, and look down into the boot area, check for moisture, if it seems damp in there, chances are there is rust you don't see.
7. Carb'd cars.. The carb in the 85 and prior cars is typically replaced, if you live in an area where you don't have to go through emission controls or you historic plate the car, i would rip the original carb out, and all of the smog crap, as just a simple new carb, and no smog stuff will help the car breath much better..
8. CFI cars, you will likely want to avoid, since the original CFI cars are a nightmare to tune, and are for that matter hard to get parts for.
9. Body parts.. most of the fox parts you can get, but the doors with the mirrors that are not mid door, are not reproduced, so check these extensively for rust, otherwise it's a fiasco to find doors..
10. Paint, the paint sucked from the factory, panel gaps are terrible and things never lined up from the factory, so checking gaps is pointless..
11. Mileage, They don't have the 6th digit, so make sure you have the title, and check for stickers for oil changes, those might help to determine if the mileage is correct, or if it has flipped.
12. Low mileage cars, this isn't always a good thing, this typically means it was stored for a long period, which has likely dried all the seals, and adds to the amount of work you have ahead of yourself..
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All good posts, not much more to add to the obvios but I feel the interior tells you a lot. If it's well maintained in any car, you can expect the owner(s) gave a crap about the rest of the car.
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