5.0L worth making faster? - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007 Thread Starter
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5.0L worth making faster?

I currently own a 1994 Mustang GT with 133,xxx on it. Im not to familiar with car engines but I know my share. Is this engine worth putting more horespower into, if so, where do I start? Or should I just save up for a new 302?

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007
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I currently own a 1994 Mustang GT with 133,xxx on it. Im not to familiar with car engines but I know my share. Is this engine worth putting more horespower into, if so, where do I start? Or should I just save up for a new 302?
I have the same car with 126k on it. Runs like a champ and makes 220+ RWHP without a head swap. It'll be fine if you want to put some money into it. I also plan on getting a new motor, so I'm just using minor bolt ons, etc. Toss some nitrous on it... Basically only using items I can bolt onto a new motor.

It's worth it, and you could wake it up a lot with some gears in the rear end.

Toss on a cold air (BBK or C&L), a good cat-back (Magnapack or Flowmaster 40s), some other mods. Heads are a good idea if you plan to save the motor or swap them to a new short block.

Last few things I plan to do to the motor: High Flow Water Pump, Alternator, Underdrive Pullies, MSD Ignition, Zex Wet Kit, and 180 Thermostat. You can do plenty to the drivetrain with a clutch/flywheel and a driveshaft. Do some suspension work to help it hook up and it'll be pretty quick.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007 Thread Starter
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Yeah I currently have a cheap cold air intake in it that I bought...JDM. I have flowmasters on it that came with the car, but whats wierd is that they cut off right before my back tire so you cannot see them from the rear at all. Im taking into concideration the new cold air intake and should I just tkae off my cats for a louder sound? Ive been thinking about new heads for a while, are mine short or long heads? Where is a good place to buy some and what brand?
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007
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Yeah I currently have a cheap cold air intake in it that I bought...JDM. I have flowmasters on it that came with the car, but whats wierd is that they cut off right before my back tire so you cannot see them from the rear at all. Im taking into concideration the new cold air intake and should I just tkae off my cats for a louder sound? Ive been thinking about new heads for a while, are mine short or long heads? Where is a good place to buy some and what brand?
Sounds like it's just dumped flowmasters.

If you want it loud get long tube headers and a cat-less H-pipe.

AFR Heads are good, as well as Trickflow or Edelbrock. Just search for 94 Mustang GT heads and you'll find what you need.
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007
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Yea I have run a 5.0 up over 200k it is worth putting on bolt-on's until it starts smoking or using more than 1-2qt's between oil changes "not counting leaks"; then u need a rebuild before u turn a bearing or a timing chain. Another sigh of a needed rebuild is take off the timing cover around 190k, if u can and see how much play in in your timing chain if it is very loose replace the chain or rebuild. U might even want to replace the valve seals if it does start to smoke a little If u decide to put roller rockers on u might as well replace the valve seals, and put on a set of good valve springs when u get a lot of miles on a motor u loose power over 4500 rpms because the springs get weak so put on a new set and u can use them when u rebuild do all of this while u have the valve's cover off. U can beat up on the 5.0 pretty hard and not blow it up like a chevy, u just start to slowly loose power from compression loss so check you compression as often as u can and when u get way below stock the rings are starting to go and a rebuild is needed. If u keep up with checking on the compression u can rebuild the motor and possibly not have to bore out the cylinders just hone them out and rebuild with good stuff. But until then bolt on as many replacement and aftermarket parts u can afford until u need to put in a rebuild or another motor.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007
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if you want to make alot of modifications, other than the basic bolt ons and whatnot, i would suggest a rebuild.

im willing to bet that those were not an easy 133 miles, especially in a mustang GT.

whats a good goal for you? do you just want some extra power, or are you planning on making a lean, mean street machine? what alot of people tend to do is get some heads, a cam, and an intake. and if you do decide on rebuilding the motor, just slap some new heads on there, a cam and an intake.

the modification possibilities of a 5.0 are endless. you can look at 20 different 5.0,s and see 20 different setups.

1990 5.0 LX 5-speed bbk fenderwell intake, bbk shorty headers, H-pipe, flowmasters, 3.27 gears, hurst shifter, bbk adjustable clutch cable and quadrant with firewall adjuster.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-17-2007
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Whether you re-build soon or not, adding bolt-ons is probably your best bet. You can always pull them off if you re-build and add them to the next motor. Now if you plan on keeping your ride for a while, I'd do the gears first then bolt-ons. IMHO, you'll get a thrill quicker from gears before any CAI, etc!!! Just my .02 which I'm sure others might disagree!

KG

93GT 306 5spd, 70mm TB, 185cc AFR Heads, 1.6 RR's F303 Cam, BBK Long tubes, X Pipe into American Thunder Flowmaster and 3:73's outback.

"The day we lose our will to fight is the day we lose our Freedom"
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007 Thread Starter
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Wow thanks for the suggestions guys. Im most likely going to upgrade to a BBK intake, take my cats off and extend my exhaust pipes out the back, and get new headers. Im looking for some good power that will set me apart from these little imports always trying to race me, not like i dont smoke them anyway lol.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007
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Can't say enough about gears/rear end swap. Go with 4.10's if you don't have to do a lot of long highway drives. I haven't done my H/C/I swap yet and my set-up is still decently quick, mostly due to the gears. This, of course, will change this spring :hihi:

And remember...it's cheap OR fast, not both.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 03-18-2007 Thread Starter
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Wheres a good online store that sells these 4.10's you speak of? What exactly are they?
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Wheres a good online store that sells these 4.10's you speak of? What exactly are they?
They are the ring and pinion gear that go in the rear end of the vehicle. I would highly advise having this done professionally or under the supervision of someone who has done it before. It's not an easy mod and if it's off by just a smidge it can ruin the gears.

Summit Ring & Pinion Install Kit
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I just had 3.73s put in my '95-rebuild kit with gears from Brenspeed off Ebay $233 shipped.Included all bearings,seals,shims and everything else needed to rebuild entire rear from wheel to wheel.A tech at the local Ford dealer did the build in his shop for $250.I wish I had done it a long time ago.

My '95 had 121K on when I started building it up,and I say YES-do it like you want.As long as you're not using oil/smoking it should be OK

I'm up to 280 rwhp,next comes the chip/tune--the guy that runs the dyno said most "stock" 94-95 GTs he has tested put out 180-190ish rwhp-and he's only had 3 "stock block" N/A 302s break the magic 300rwhp mark--I'm trying to be his 4th

"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!

"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
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I just had 3.73s put in my '95-rebuild kit with gears from Brenspeed off Ebay $233 shipped.Included all bearings,seals,shims and everything else needed to rebuild entire rear from wheel to wheel.A tech at the local Ford dealer did the build in his shop for $250.I wish I had done it a long time ago.

My '95 had 121K on when I started building it up,and I say YES-do it like you want.As long as you're not using oil/smoking it should be OK

I'm up to 280 rwhp,next comes the chip/tune--the guy that runs the dyno said most "stock" 94-95 GTs he has tested put out 180-190ish rwhp-and he's only had 3 "stock block" N/A 302s break the magic 300rwhp mark--I'm trying to be his 4th
Sounds about right on the dyno numbers. Mine ran 176 rwhp stock. By stock block do you mean sans HCI swap or just stock short block?

Also how are those gears? I used FRPP because I heard bad things about other gears and noise. I also used FRPP Carbon Fiber Trak-Lok Rebuild kit. It's some niiiice stuff.
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Sounds about right on the dyno numbers. Mine ran 176 rwhp stock. By stock block do you mean sans HCI swap or just stock short block?

Also how are those gears? I used FRPP because I heard bad things about other gears and noise. I also used FRPP Carbon Fiber Trak-Lok Rebuild kit. It's some niiiice stuff.
By "stock"302,I/he meant no mods,by "stock block" I/he meant still a 302/306 with mods-on mine,I pulled the engine out and stripped it down to the shortblock and went back up,H/C/I/TB/INJ/MAF/oil-water pumps,etc

the gears in Brenspeed's kit are Motive gears,and from what I gather from some other threads on here they make the gears for FRPP.So far no whine/chatter/clashing but I haven't driven it much yet

"Life is not a journey to the grave with intentions of arriving safely in a pretty well preserved body,but rather to skid in broadside,thoroughly used up,totally worn out and loudly proclaiming.....WOW!.....What a ride!

"As you grow older,don't slow down,speed up-there's less time left"--over 45 and just now realizing how much I don't know
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By "stock"302,I/he meant no mods,by "stock block" I/he meant still a 302/306 with mods-on mine,I pulled the engine out and stripped it down to the shortblock and went back up,H/C/I/TB/INJ/MAF/oil-water pumps,etc

the gears in Brenspeed's kit are Motive gears,and from what I gather from some other threads on here they make the gears for FRPP.So far no whine/chatter/clashing but I haven't driven it much yet
Ah! Yea, HCI swap and all it's that hard to make 300 rwhp with a 302 N/A. Just takes some money and tuning. Not many people do it, since most people that strip it down just bore it and stroke it.

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