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post #16 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017 Thread Starter
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Sounds like you'll be near the limits of a stock block.
I was hoping that was not the case...

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Sounds good. Yeah I imagine he was talking 500 crank horse, but that's still a lot.
How are you set up in the suspension department? If it's not already "beefed up" you might want to start shopping for parts. You're throwing a lot more power at it than the stock stuff will be able to "put down." If it's the 20+ year old original that's even worse. If you don't have them I would do subframe connectors and an aftermarket set of rear control arms. I would do that first even before springs, shocks, and struts if yours are stock. Old shocks/struts aren't ideal, but with 500 hp you'd benefit more by reducing flex and by being able to keep the rear tires straight off of the line and in corners.
With the sfc's there's no need to spend crazy money on them. Just make sure they are the weld-in kind and they have seat bracket/braces. After all, all they are are boxed steel.
When it comes to the rear control arms don't skimp out there. The inexpensive ones are crap and the expansive ones aren't. Get the best ones that you can afford.
You might also want to think about freshening up the front end if it's original. Bj's, inner/outer tie rods etc.
Good luck
I was starting to think the same thing! How is the rest of the car going to hold up... It looks like there is a Eibach supsension kit with shocks, springs, and sway bars. It has 4 lug wheels with a rear disc conversion but it appears to be the OEM brake booster. The car rode smooth on the highway and it looks like the OEM front steering components have been replaced with OEM and it looks like a new rack and pinion with an old ass power steering pump blowing fluid everywhere. No signs of reinforcements such as sub frame or torque box. Rear control arms look OEM.
Bah,I'd probably pass on that kit. I don't think there's really all that much bang for buck w aftermarket sway bars. I had eiabach sportline springs on the '90 that I had. I hated them, rode like a chuckwagon.
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Originally Posted by JD08 View Post
Sounds like you'll be near the limits of a stock block.
I was hoping that was not the case...
You might not be as close to 500 as they say. I know they're doing port work, but 500 sounds like an awful lot for even for a 331 w ported 170cc heads and street heat intake. I kinda think you might end up with closer to 400 hp, which is still a bunch. It's twice as much as it came with. Also, I don't think a tuner would recommend 30# injectors for a 500 horse build. Maybe so, I dunno, but my guy recommended 42# injectors and I'm only making 332 at the rear. Maybe it was just him though.

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Bah,I'd probably pass on that kit. I don't think there's really all that much bang for buck w aftermarket sway bars. I had eiabach sportline springs on the '90 that I had. I hated them, rode like a chuckwagon.

You might not be as close to 500 as they say. I know they're doing port work, but 500 sounds like an awful lot for even for a 331 w ported 170cc heads and street heat intake. I kinda think you might end up with closer to 400 hp, which is still a bunch. It's twice as much as it came with. Also, I don't think a tuner would recommend 30# injectors for a 500 horse build. Maybe so, I dunno, but my guy recommended 42# injectors and I'm only making 332 at the rear. Maybe it was just him though.
Here's an engine dyno for a 331 with TFS 170's. Remember this is an engine dyno and they are using a carb'd intake, no, emissions, or accessories, and open headers. This setup always makes more power of course than one would see in the "real world," but they still reported a health 439 hp. Just for comparison's sake I believe the Ford Racing GT 40 crate motor is rated at 360 I think, and they got that same 360 using the same type test. No accessories, carbed intake, open headers, etc. The GT40 crate that they rate at 360 at the crank usually makes around 250 at the wheels give or take 20.
As Cast-Still Fast: Twisted Wedge Head Test - Power & Performance News
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post #19 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017 Thread Starter
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Here's an engine dyno for a 331 with TFS 170's. Remember this is an engine dyno and they are using a carb'd intake, no, emissions, or accessories, and open headers. This setup always makes more power of course than one would see in the "real world," but they still reported a health 439 hp. Just for comparison's sake I believe the Ford Racing GT 40 crate motor is rated at 360 I think, and they got that same 360 using the same type test. No accessories, carbed intake, open headers, etc. The GT40 crate that they rate at 360 at the crank usually makes around 250 at the wheels give or take 20.
As Cast-Still Fast: Twisted Wedge Head Test - Power & Performance News
I am not really trying to get caught up in HP numbers, I was just shocked at what he said. He could have been talking about @7,000RPM for all I know... I dont plan on spinning that fast either! Also, the Eibach suspension came with the car and I have not really had a chance to drive it much... It crossed my mind to leave the 170's alone and get 6-8lbs of boost, but the valves were beat up where the rocker rides on them. They needed work, so I was kind of screwed. I believe in something like Karma, maybe not karma its self, but I didnt feel right selling a beat up set of heads. I was also hesitant on using a cam that needed a big stall, but I do have this $680 FTI 2800 stall converter.
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post #20 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-01-2017 Thread Starter
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I found this when i pulled the engine from the trans.
Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for AOD
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Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Here's an engine dyno for a 331 with TFS 170's. Remember this is an engine dyno and they are using a carb'd intake, no, emissions, or accessories, and open headers. This setup always makes more power of course than one would see in the "real world," but they still reported a health 439 hp. Just for comparison's sake I believe the Ford Racing GT 40 crate motor is rated at 360 I think, and they got that same 360 using the same type test. No accessories, carbed intake, open headers, etc. The GT40 crate that they rate at 360 at the crank usually makes around 250 at the wheels give or take 20.
As Cast-Still Fast: Twisted Wedge Head Test - Power & Performance News
I am not really trying to get caught up in HP numbers, I was just shocked at what he said. He could have been talking about @7,000RPM for all I know... I dont plan on spinning that fast either! Also, the Eibach suspension came with the car and I have not really had a chance to drive it much... It crossed my mind to leave the 170's alone and get 6-8lbs of boost, but the valves were beat up where the rocker rides on them. They needed work, so I was kind of screwed. I believe in something like Karma, maybe not karma its self, but I didnt feel right selling a beat up set of heads. I was also hesitant on using a cam that needed a big stall, but I do have this $680 FTI 2800 stall converter.
I dream of adding a trick flow top end to my 6-8 lb blower..

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I found this when i pulled the engine from the trans.
Street Racer Series Torque Converter - 9.5" for AOD
Have you ever foot braked it to see how high it'll rev before the tires start moving? Do you know what rear gear you have? The cam guy will probably want to know.
Here are a few decent "bang for buck" suspension items for a street car. I'm using all of these and I like them. It's not a drag strip champ or road course champ suspension setup, but it has a decent balance of being able to handle twisty roads and getting off of the line.
Oh and tires. Tires will play the one of the biggest rolls in your driving experience.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/rear-...&T5_Var4=30021

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Re...tang-P544.aspx

http://m.autozone.com/suspension-ste...7559?location=

These sfc's are actually on sale. They made a night and day difference in chassis stiffness and they helped to keep the car flatter through corners. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-SUBS/79-04-...ame-Connectors
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post #22 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017 Thread Starter
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What's up guys? I've been busy trying to pay for this engine work. I have it about 75% paid for, but I still need to work on my trans. I think that I will just be patient and wait until I have decent money first. I might have to end up putting this back together with my 24# maf/inj and save up for a tune at the same time as bigger injectors. I just felt like this would be the easiest part to swap out later.
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post #23 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-14-2017 Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
I dream of adding a trick flow top end to my 6-8 lb blower..


Have you ever foot braked it to see how high it'll rev before the tires start moving? Do you know what rear gear you have? The cam guy will probably want to know.
Here are a few decent "bang for buck" suspension items for a street car. I'm using all of these and I like them. It's not a drag strip champ or road course champ suspension setup, but it has a decent balance of being able to handle twisty roads and getting off of the line.
Oh and tires. Tires will play the one of the biggest rolls in your driving experience.

https://www.americanmuscle.com/rear-...&T5_Var4=30021

Rear Upper Control Arms, 1979-2004 Mustang

Duralast Control Arm Bushing - Rear FB695 - Read Reviews on Duralast #FB695

These sfc's are actually on sale. They made a night and day difference in chassis stiffness and they helped to keep the car flatter through corners. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-SUBS/79-04-...ame-Connectors
Dont get me wrong, I am looking at subframe connectors, torque box reinforcements, and rear control arms. It will probably come in a few months from now. I dont think that I will be tearing anything up with my #24 injectors for now. My wife wants a mini van now and that is why she let me do my engine. I wish that Ford made a good mini van nowdays...
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post #24 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017 Thread Starter
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Alright, I just got back from the racing shop and I dropped off my intake manifold. I already had my TFS 170's up there for some port work. He told me to bring in my TFS Track Heat intake and he could port match it for me. I am not familiar with the terminology but I get the idea.

I guess that I am talking about this because I really stuck on the idea of buying the 11R heads instead of porting the TW170's. Plus, I would have had to buy a new intake. The heads are going to cost $1,100 to port, which is about what TEA was going to charge but I also had a few valves that needed to be replaced. The valve stem where it meets the rocker was mushroomed out on a few of them. The previous owner that put this car together should not be turning wrenches!

Anyways, I put down 75%($1,900+$1,100) on my engine and heads. I had to take them to two different shops but I really wish that I had known about the 2nd shop before hand. The first shop is where I brought my engine block to and they are more old school, it's a 3rd generation owner. The 2nd shop that is doing the port work, still races and does a lot of work for "Street Outlaws". People have always asked me about that show when they see that I am from Oklahoma. Now, I suppose that I have a connection with the show. I felt bad that I didn't know the guys that he did work for, I think that it let him down that I didnt know about the show... It's probably time to search YouTube
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Alright, I just got back from the racing shop and I dropped off my intake manifold. I already had my TFS 170's up there for some port work. He told me to bring in my TFS Track Heat intake and he could port match it for me. I am not familiar with the terminology but I get the idea.

I guess that I am talking about this because I really stuck on the idea of buying the 11R heads instead of porting the TW170's. Plus, I would have had to buy a new intake. The heads are going to cost $1,100 to port, which is about what TEA was going to charge but I also had a few valves that needed to be replaced. The valve stem where it meets the rocker was mushroomed out on a few of them. The previous owner that put this car together should not be turning wrenches!

Anyways, I put down 75%($1,900+$1,100) on my engine and heads. I had to take them to two different shops but I really wish that I had known about the 2nd shop before hand. The first shop is where I brought my engine block to and they are more old school, it's a 3rd generation owner. The 2nd shop that is doing the port work, still races and does a lot of work for "Street Outlaws". People have always asked me about that show when they see that I am from Oklahoma. Now, I suppose that I have a connection with the show. I felt bad that I didn't know the guys that he did work for, I think that it let him down that I didnt know about the show... It's probably time to search YouTube
The track heat won't fit on the 190cc heads?
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post #26 of 27 (permalink) Old 09-15-2017 Thread Starter
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The track heat won't fit on the 190cc heads?
I think that they will fit, I just dont think that the ports will be the same size. I see that there a lot of guys over at "Corral" using 11R190/205 heads with Holley Systemax intakes. I think that Holley is supposed to flow better is all. Maybe a TFS R intake?

I am just excited that I am doing this the right way. The guy the shop said that he would even match my gaskets... I really dont expect to be keeping up with the new 5.0's or beating anyone at the track, I just want a fun car to drive that I can work on when needed.

Anyways, its probably time to start shifting my focus towards the trans build. I am going to rebuild the AOD myself. I have done a couple of standard rebuilds on a AOD and C4, but this will be the first time that I actually try to modify by swapping for newer parts. I am looking to get the 2'' overdrive band with a Sonnax OD servo and I will need the Reverse clutch drum with a mechanical diode from a 4r70w. I am looking at one of SilverFox's valve bodies with OD lockout on a 12v solenoid. hardened input shaft. I already have a 2800 stall torque converter. Hell, I am starting to ramble on...
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The track heat won't fit on the 190cc heads?
I think that they will fit, I just dont think that the ports will be the same size. I see that there a lot of guys over at "Corral" using 11R190/205 heads with Holley Systemax intakes. I think that Holley is supposed to flow better is all. Maybe a TFS R intake?

I am just excited that I am doing this the right way. The guy the shop said that he would even match my gaskets... I really dont expect to be keeping up with the new 5.0's or beating anyone at the track, I just want a fun car to drive that I can work on when needed.

Anyways, its probably time to start shifting my focus towards the trans build. I am going to rebuild the AOD myself. I have done a couple of standard rebuilds on a AOD and C4, but this will be the first time that I actually try to modify by swapping for newer parts. I am looking to get the 2'' overdrive band with a Sonnax OD servo and I will need the Reverse clutch drum with a mechanical diode from a 4r70w. I am looking at one of SilverFox's valve bodies with OD lockout on a 12v solenoid. hardened input shaft. I already have a 2800 stall torque converter. Hell, I am starting to ramble on...
You'll be plenty quick enough to hang w a new mustang. My 330 horse can hang w em as long as the road doesn't get too long.
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Last edited by 90lxwhite; 09-16-2017 at 03:55 AM.
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