Engine coolant temp after bypass at the water pump - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018 Thread Starter
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Engine coolant temp after bypass at the water pump

Hello,

My heater core was leaking so I bypassed it but I didn't loop the two hoses together I basically took a hose from the water pump and connected it to the other connector on the water pump and capped the other hoses. I pulled the stat and it still runs about 3/4 of the gauge with no stat in it. Do the metal pipes that go back to the heater need to have the hose connected and to be in the loop? I thought bypassing the metal tube was a good idea at the time but I'm not sure now.

Thanks for any help
91 mustang 5.0

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-16-2018
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Short term ok...longer term, IMHO I would connect the two hoses to avoid deadhead type pressure


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018
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If you still have the metal coolant pipe assembly in place,which has both heater hoses connected to it at the firewall end,you need to pull the heater hoses off of it then connect a U shaped hose or two straight hoses with a U shaped pvc/copper,etc pipe between them.The ect sensor resides in the supply side of the coolant pipe assembly and the egr spacer coolant supply hose resides in the return side of the pipe assembly.The ect sensor needs to remain in its original location,so that coolant can flow around it,making for a better reading.If you have caps on the firewall end of the pipe assembly,instead of a U shaped bypass
hose,coolant will be stagnant instead of circulating and the ect sensor reading will be off most likely.The ect sensor has a huge influence on fuel mixture and timing,so its important the sensor reads true coolant temp,which requires its mounting location to be the original.If you remove/have removed the coolant pipe assembly,the same hole thats used to screw the pipe to the intake,is the same hole you should use to screw your ect sensor in place.
Another thing you need to check is the secondary ground.Its the flat braided strap located between the cylinder head (rear) or intake & the firewall.Its the ground for the interior/exterior lights,ac clutch,alternator & the gauges.If the secondary ground is loose,corroded or disconnected,the temp gauge will spike anytime accessories (blower fan/ headlights/etc) are turned on,so make sure that ground is intact ................
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91 LX 342ci (10.5:1)
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018 Thread Starter
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Thank you for your help I was not sure if the coolant needed to flow I to those pipes, I see the sensor on one. I just need to find a diagram of which of the hoses goes to which pipe from then water pump.

Thanks again for all the help

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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonyzzz View Post
I just need to find a diagram of which of the hoses goes to which pipe from then water pump.
The rubber U-shaped hose has two different ends on it 5/8" and 3/4" so that it will fit over the heater tube assembly.

Hopefully this helps?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBG10743
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Last edited by ALMOST STK; 07-11-2019 at 11:19 AM.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 06-17-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALMOST STK View Post
The rubber U-shaped hose has two different ends on it 5/8" and 3/4" so that it will fit over the heater tube assembly.

Hopefully this helps?
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NBG10743

You cant get a more perfect solution than this.

91 LX 342ci (10.5:1)
TFS 190cc (stage ll)
GT40 (tubular) intake
Lunati 61011(.549"/.565")
QA1 Coilovers
Weld ProStar XP's
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