Valve Cover Gasket recommendations - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-14-2018 Thread Starter
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The passenger side valve cover is leaking in the rear on my ‘95. I tried to tighten it down some but I can’t get to the back bolts because the manifold is in the way. So I guess it’s time to pull the upper intake and change the gasket.
Who do y’all like as far as valve cover gaskets go? Rubber and metal Fel-Pro? This funny looking oem? https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...zz-6584-b.html
What’s the way to go fellas? I think I used Fel-Pro metal/rubber galsket last time.

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018
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I always say you can't go wrong with OEM, but I hope that part number is more accurate than the picture is, because that is NOT what our VC gaskets look like.

Fel-Pro's good too though, and it looks like they currently have a couple of options: VS50029C (cork) or VS13264T (silicone rubber). I'd go with the latter.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
I always say you can't go wrong with OEM, but I hope that part number is more accurate than the picture is, because that is NOT what our VC gaskets look like.

Fel-Pro's good too though, and it looks like they currently have a couple of options: VS50029C (cork) or VS13264T (silicone rubber). I'd go with the latter.
I think VS13264T is what I used last time. Do you think it just came untorqued? Or would you buy a new gasket?
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018
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Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
I always say you can't go wrong with OEM, but I hope that part number is more accurate than the picture is, because that is NOT what our VC gaskets look like.

Fel-Pro's good too though, and it looks like they currently have a couple of options: VS50029C (cork) or VS13264T (silicone rubber). I'd go with the latter.
Me too, on the silicone.


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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-15-2018
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I'm guessing that when you tried to tighten the bolts down the other day, it wasn't with a torque wrench, huh? And now it's too late to tell how tight you found them (except for bolts you haven't been able to reach yet)? I wouldn't expect them to come loose unless they were already undertorqued (or unevenly torqued).

If they're the really good gaskets, then they should be reusable for a long time, as long as they're not damaged, like from slipping out of alignment or being WAY overtorqued.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
I'm guessing that when you tried to tighten the bolts down the other day, it wasn't with a torque wrench, huh? And now it's too late to tell how tight you found them (except for bolts you haven't been able to reach yet)? I wouldn't expect them to come loose unless they were already undertorqued (or unevenly torqued).

If they're the really good gaskets, then they should be reusable for a long time, as long as they're not damaged, like from slipping out of alignment or being WAY overtorqued.
Nah, no torque wrench. The gasket slipping was/is my first guess at what happened.
I guess I won’t know until I get it torn apart. I’d like to have a gasket on hand just in case though. I don’t wanna have to make a store run and or possibly have to order a set after it’s torn apart.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-16-2018
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Nah, no torque wrench. The gasket slipping was/is my first guess at what happened.
I guess I wonít know until I get it torn apart. Iíd like to have a gasket on hand just in case though. I donít wanna have to make a store run and or possibly have to order a set after itís torn apart.
The rubber is better but cork will do in a pinch. Cork is not reuseable. Don't crush the gaskets too hard. A torque wrench is overkill here anyone with any mechanical sensibility knows a tiny bolt like this has inch-pounds for torque, not foot pounds. Easiest way with cork is to put spray tack on the top and stick it to the valve cover, then out it down on a flat surface until it dries. Then install is easy.
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Quote:
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Nah, no torque wrench. The gasket slipping was/is my first guess at what happened.
I guess I won’t know until I get it torn apart. I’d like to have a gasket on hand just in case though. I don’t wanna have to make a store run and or possibly have to order a set after it’s torn apart.
The rubber is better but cork will do in a pinch. Cork is not reuseable. Don't crush the gaskets too hard. A torque wrench is overkill here anyone with any mechanical sensibility knows a tiny bolt like this has inch-pounds for torque, not foot pounds. Easiest way with cork is to put spray tack on the top and stick it to the valve cover, then out it down on a flat surface until it dries. Then install is easy.
When I did it originally many years ago, I just used a 1/4 drive ratchet. It held up for a good while.
One possibility that happened is that my pcv hose got kinked and when that happened crank case pressure could’ve blown it out. It’s supercharged so I guess that could’ve happened. It’s leaking enough in the rear now that oil drips down and gets burned and causes it to smoke.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018
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Quote:
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The rubber is better but cork will do in a pinch. Cork is not reuseable. Don't crush the gaskets too hard. A torque wrench is overkill here anyone with any mechanical sensibility knows a tiny bolt like this has inch-pounds for torque, not foot pounds. Easiest way with cork is to put spray tack on the top and stick it to the valve cover, then out it down on a flat surface until it dries. Then install is easy.


What I found out is when using cork gaskets it is a good idea to put a light coating
of oil on the head so when and if you have to remove the valve cover again the cork
won't stick to the head. Scraping gasket off cylinder heads can be a pain.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 07-17-2018 Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5LHO View Post
The rubber is better but cork will do in a pinch. Cork is not reuseable. Don't crush the gaskets too hard. A torque wrench is overkill here anyone with any mechanical sensibility knows a tiny bolt like this has inch-pounds for torque, not foot pounds. Easiest way with cork is to put spray tack on the top and stick it to the valve cover, then out it down on a flat surface until it dries. Then install is easy.


What I found out is when using cork gaskets it is a good idea to put a light coating
of oil on the head so when and if you have to remove the valve cover again the cork
won't stick to the head. Scraping gasket off cylinder heads can be a pain.
Good idea.
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If the 94-95 model uses the same torque value as the 86-93 model,my Chiltons manual lists valve cover torque at
36-60in/lbs.If Im having issues with bolts coming loose,that require a specific torque value,but they're not securing a part where the maintaining of that value is critical to its function (i.e.- lower intake/ cylinder heads) I'll put a little dab of low to medium strength Loctite on the bolts.I also wouldn't use it on intake or head bolts,just in case it alters the torque reading.It works great on valve cover bolts,the lifter spider retainer bolts,timing chain bolts,ect.

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Huh. Well, that's interesting. These ones actually call for 12-15 lb-ft.

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12-15 lb/ft will snap those little bolts quite handily, especially if they've been heat cycled a million times....

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Sounds kinda high, doesn't it? I just double-checked the Ford service manual, and sure enough it says
Quote:
Position the valve covers on the cylinder heads. Tighten the retaining bolts to 16-20 N-m (12-15 lb-ft).
Now, would it be correct to assume that these bolts are the same size as on the 3.8L V6, compressing the same type of gasket material? Because this is what it says over in the 3.8 section:
Quote:
Position valve cover on the cylinder head and install retaining bolts. Note location of ignition wire routing stud bolts. Tighten retaining bolts to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).
That's closer to what wbrockstar quoted from the Chilton book on Foxbodies. For further comparison, I happen to have a Chilton book on SN95s that I was using before I found an actual Ford manual. It groups the V6 and 5.0L V8 together under one section and specifies the following:
Quote:
Ft-lbs (unless otherwise indicated)
Valve cover bolts 12 to 15
BTW, this spec is not "otherwise indicated" as being in in-lbs.

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