Weight - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019 Thread Starter
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Weight

I stumbled on to this thread on another forum where a guy said that he weighed various items on a shipping scale. Sorta kinda some good info here. It looks like it'd take quite a bit to lose a couple hundred lbs.
He says a stock H-pipe with the converters weighs 33.65 lbs and an offroad h weighs 17.35. So there's a 16 lb reduction if one went that route. He says the donut and the jack weigh around 26 lbs combined. So I guess if one had an off road mid pipe and removed the spare they'd be nearly half way to losing 100 lbs. So maybe a couple hundred lbs is do able. The interior stuff doesn't seem to weigh much though. The center console is around 13 lbs.
The big ticket items seem to be heads, hood, seats. He said the short block minus a few items was only like 185lbs.
I've never tried but it seems like it's take quite a bit of weight removed to make much of a difference. I did have the eear seats out for a little bit when they were getting reupholstered. No track times, but I couldn't feel a difference.
What's the rule of thumb? 100 lbs loss for a tenth of a second? More? Less? He weighed part of a supercharger kit and it was like 40 lbs..
https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/got-a-new-shipping-scale-and-weighed-some-parts-t5-stock-hood-fender-heads-etc.704713/

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019
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The "100 lbs = 1/10 of a second" is only a very vague guideline. On a heavy car (let's just say a '70 Cadillac for example), you can scarcely tell if you've added a passenger, much less taken 100 lbs out. It will likely affect you less than 1/10 of a second.

If your car's around 3000 lbs, it's going to be pretty close.

If your car is very light (think sand rail) then removing 100 lbs could well result in far more than .1 second.

It's also important to realize that where the weight's at, and transfer, can really affect traction. If you pull all the weight out of the back end, wheelspin may take away any ET gains. There are lots of fun Youtube videos of people that take this to extremes. There's a great old Roadkill episode where they strip down an early 80s corvette and make it genuinely fast. There's also a much more recent episode done by the Hoonigans where they strip a police car to find out if it'll be faster. (Spoiler: It mostly goes slower, until the very last step of weight removal, due to traction issues)

Also, it's interesting to note that rotational weight affects this more. So, for example, you put on a set of magnesium Halibrands and save 10 lbs per corner of your car. That's only 40 lbs, right? But because it's moving, the inertial effect is much greater. You might gain over 1/10 of a second with such a change, despite the fact that it's not 100 lbs. This is why most serious drag cars have the smallest, lightest front wheels and tires they can get away with. It definitely has an effect.

Lightened driveshafts have only a small effect, because of the way torque works. (remember the grade school lessons about 1 lb weights on the end of a 1 foot arm, vs. 2 foot arm?) However, at high speeds with overdrive, they can definitely reduce driveline harmonics and vibration.

Engineering. It's complicated. Who'd have guessed?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019
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Surprisingly, dumping weight off the mustangs is easier than you think. I've gone from a curb weight of 3700 when the car was new to 3450. Once you begin gutting it, you find there's lots of things that weigh a lot. Removing all the glass was a big weight reduction.
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pikapp View Post
Surprisingly, dumping weight off the mustangs is easier than you think. I've gone from a curb weight of 3700 when the car was new to 3450. Once you begin gutting it, you find there's lots of things that weigh a lot. Removing all the glass was a big weight reduction.
Yeah I imagine glass is heavy.
Mine is just a street car that might see the drag strip a few times a year. So there's not too much I'm willing to or can remove really. I've heard of people removing silly items like the two lb "dog bone" on the rear diff in the name of weight savings, hardly worth the effort of opening the toolbox if you ask me. The smog pump weighs like 8 lbs. The vendors claim that their delete pulley ONLY weighs 6 lbs, But they dont mention the smog pump only weighs eight. Not quite worth the money spent or wrestling it out for me either. I dunno I guess mine will just be fat. Once I saw '98 PI swapped (so the guy said) GT with nothing left in the cabin but the stock seat and the dash. It was running in the 9's @ around 70 mph. I ran that fast in my '12 Maxima with my kids carseat still in the back.
What year model weighed 3700?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019
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3700 lbs is like Thunderbird territory (that's about how much my '96 'Bird weighed). Must be a newer Mustang.

Which reminds me... Back when I had my T-Bird, I managed to find some documents online a while back that had extremely detailed specs. I'm trying to remember the name of who put them together... "Automobile something something Association"? Something like that. Anyway, they were long documents full of specs, seemingly for official purposes (shipping, perhaps). They detailed the exact weights of the cars, right down to the differences between model trims. I seem to recall having a hard time finding Mustang documentation when I found these, but since I was looking at Thunderbird info from the same era, I figured some of the info would still apply.

Case in point- the difference in weight between the manual and automatic transmissions came out to almost exactly 100 lbs. And I want to say that included all the stuff that goes with the transmissions. So if I interpreted and recall what I read correctly, the auto trans with torque converter, lines, and fluid all came out to about 100 lbs more than a manual one complete with the clutch assembly, cable, extra pedal, the whole deal.

I can't seem to find the docs among my saved files now, and it looks like I may have neglected to bookmark them too. Dang it. Maybe someone who reads this will know what I'm talking about and where to find it...?

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-18-2019
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Found it! "Manufacturers Motor Vehicle Specifications", by the Motor Vehicle Manufacturers Association (MVMA)

And I even managed to find the right Mustang documentation for my car's year (1995, other years also available), so as to avoid trying to extrapolate relevant info from the Thunderbird docs. So many juicy specs, like the exact transmission weights. 90.1 lbs for the T5, vs 200 lbs for the AODE. (But if you look closely, the T5 figure includes fluid, while the AODE figure is dry. So if I did my math right, that's another 21 lbs for the AODE.)

But there's more, a lot more. Want to know the weight of the manifolds? 39.5 lbs for the intake, 14.2 for the exhaust. 5.0 engine weight? 498 lbs (fully dressed, dry). Convertible model weight penalty? 170 lbs.

Very interesting stuff, especially if you're looking for stock equipment weights for different model trims. Just having a manual coupe instead of auto convertible sure makes a big difference.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019
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Pretty hard to compare autos to manuals though. Despite the added weight of the slushbox, you also get torque multiplication because of the torque converter, along with more consistent shifting.

Not trying to start a 'which is better' war at all, here. Just saying that there isn't usually an ET decrease in this case, despite higher weight.

While I am a genuine fan of manual transmissions, and one of the few people these days who seems to know how to powershift a car, there are some upsides to automatics too. Especially when you have knee injuries to your left leg. *wry grin*

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
Pretty hard to compare autos to manuals though. Despite the added weight of the slushbox, you also get torque multiplication because of the torque converter, along with more consistent shifting.

Not trying to start a 'which is better' war at all, here. Just saying that there isn't usually an ET decrease in this case, despite higher weight.

While I am a genuine fan of manual transmissions, and one of the few people these days who seems to know how to powershift a car, there are some upsides to automatics too. Especially when you have knee injuries to your left leg. *wry grin*
If we're talking a purpose built dragster I'll take an auto any day. Point and shoot.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019
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Absolutely. I sure can't shift that fast.

It's always bothered me how websites that offer specs on these cars can't seem to agree on how much they weigh. (Which reminds me, I keep meaning to stop by some truck scales and get an accurate measurement on mine. Still haven't done that yet.) Automobile-catalog has been one of my favorites for a while now, but now that I see the MVMA spec sheets, I can be even more confident in A-C's numbers, because they match.

I like how the spec sheets list all the options too. Obviously, the emissions stuff was standard, so I can't verify the weight of the smog pump and related components. But it does quote the ABS as weighing 17.75 lbs, and the 5.0 AC system at 30.1 lbs.

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It's easy to cut your weight down. Swap in a 4 cyl engine with a manual 4 speed trans. Then drain the fuel tank and put a hose into a 1 gallon can for fuel and drain out a gallon of coolant. All this will get you about 300 pounds of weight loss. But then, I guess you'll have to decide if you want a drag racer or a street driver.
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-19-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Absolutely. I sure can't shift that fast.

It's always bothered me how websites that offer specs on these cars can't seem to agree on how much they weigh. (Which reminds me, I keep meaning to stop by some truck scales and get an accurate measurement on mine. Still haven't done that yet.) Automobile-catalog has been one of my favorites for a while now, but now that I see the MVMA spec sheets, I can be even more confident in A-C's numbers, because they match.

I like how the spec sheets list all the options too. Obviously, the emissions stuff was standard, so I can't verify the weight of the smog pump and related components. But it does quote the ABS as weighing 17.75 lbs, and the 5.0 AC system at 30.1 lbs.
The majority of the newer model street/strip mustangs, camaro's, etc, I see at the track are autos. They're plenty fast. But I think if you took two stock 95 GT's one auto and one manual, and raced the manual would win. But I ever get a new one, I'd probably get an auto. I think the horsepower and technology have taken the slush out of the slush box.
I've been wanting to get mine on a scale too, mostly just out of curiosity. Like I said in the previous post, I don't think there's much worth removing in the name of weight savings on my street car. I run a high 8 second 1/8 mile @ around 80 mph, and the new mutang's run low 8's around 90 mph. The power gap is too wide at this point. They'd still be quite a bit in front of me, I'd just be driving home sweaty.
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What year model weighed 3700?
2008 Roush with a 100# SC.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old 02-20-2019 Thread Starter
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2008 Roush with a 100# SC.
Stage 3? Does it still have the interior and the body kit?
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Stage 3? Does it still have the interior and the body kit?
Stage 3 (427R). Interior, no, its been gutted. Body kit, yes and then some.
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Stage 3 (427R). Interior, no, its been gutted. Body kit, yes and then some.
Slick ride man. What sort of racing do you do? Road course?

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