351w overheating - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019 Thread Starter
kendell1's Avatar
Joined: Sep 2017
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351w overheating

Having a problem with overheating I have a 351w in a 93 mustang with a Mark VIII fan it's set on high speed only when it comes on, 185 thermostat, a 185 thermostat switch, the water pump is new the anti-freeze is seen going through the 3 core radiator, I also used the Spill-Free Funnel to make sure all the air was out of the cooling system . I check the head gasket with the block check fluid where if the blue fluid turns yellow the heads are blown and the fluid didn't change color. The car temp stays around 180-200 at idle, when I drove the car yesterday the car temp went up to 260 and it overheated and stalled the lower water pump hose looked like it was about to explode I also live Arizona where the temp was 116. Will going to 160 thermostat solve this problem, thanks

Last edited by kendell1; 06-14-2019 at 06:50 PM.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019
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The 160* thermostat will open a little sooner than the 185* so it might help a little (this is the temp in the engine). If the 185* thermostat switch determines when the electric fan kicks on, your fan won't start turning until the engine and radiator are at 185*. If your radiator & fan are working properly, the engine temp shouldn't go much past 220*, even on a 116* day.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019 Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info I'm starting to think my radiator may be clogged everything is working fine. When I'm driving the temp is at 200-220 but when I stop the temp jumps up 240+ so I'm going to replace the radiator and hope it solves my problem, thanks
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-14-2019
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Thermostats maintain minimum operating engine temps and aid in fast warmup by restricting water flow until coolant temps reach its rated temp. They can fully open up to +/- 15* of rated temp. Are you reaching the 240-260 with the engine running or after its turned off?

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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019 Thread Starter
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I'm reaching 240-260 when I come to a stop while driving but once I start to drive the temp reaches about 220. But after searching on line I think my radiator is gone so I purchased another one, thanks
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-15-2019
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Hi Guy....If I may throw in a little fyi----- I knowmany seem to be under the impression (marketing) that aluminum construction byitself will enhance cooling, there is a little more to it than that...and inmany instances buyers are actually comparing apples to oranges when comparing acopper core spec to an aluminum spec radiator. US Radiator has a nice vid ontheir site that yeah, it does talk about the company a bit, but also talksabout Copper vs aluminum & gives a good presentation of design limitations. US Radiator has been around for 40+years. The guy who presently owns itstarted working there 30 years ago and with the exception of 1 or 2 items,everything is built at their facility. They are also great to talk with on the phone and if you tell themexactly what you have, what are your concerns or wants, they will tell youexactly what to order. I donít know ofanyone (including the racing community) who has not been pleased with them!

Link: U.S. Radiator | The Difference Is In The Tooling
US Radiator Corporation
4423 District Boulevard
Vernon, California

Properlymaintained, the oem systems are more than adequate, Champion,AE IIRR correctly are all Chinese made.......now Iím not going to say justbecause it's Chinese made its junk...itís not, but there are a lot of issueswith them........example...Assumingall of the seam are properly welded (they have their moments when pre-maturefailure- pinholes- occur), cooling is more than the number of tubes ormaterial, its number of fins versus number & size of tubes....i.e. rate offlow and the amount of heat that can be exchanged in a specific amount oftime.......many times these units are cheaper because they do not have anadequate number of fins......

Qualityof welds........typically poor and pinholes start showing at the 5-8 year mark

Corrosion(internal).....almost all American radiators (aluminum) have or have as anoption (and usually recommend if not already permanently installed) an anode-basically acts as a sacrificial lamb for electrolysis based corrosion (very,very predominant with aluminum radiators, water pumps) and helps keep the phlevel neutral. Without this, I have seen a host of promulgated failuresincluding radiator, hoses, water pumps, head gaskets, thermostat covers- wherethe material is literally eaten away because of electrolysis.

Another potential option is.....


I used their unit on my wife's car a couple of years ago (since US did not make radiators for her car- too new)...excellent unit!!

Member: Never trust a person over 40 who drives a Chevy club
Flatheads ain't so bad!
Certified backyard mechanic I & II
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 06-16-2019
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I bet you still have air in the system. When the car is at operating temp the radiator hose should be easy easy to squeeze. If the hose is real hard there’s air in there.
If you think the radiator is clogged try flushing it first. I had a clogged rad that was causing over heating and two bottles of Prestone flush fixed it.
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