GT40P Explorer engine Torques - Ford Mustang Forum
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GT40P Explorer engine Torques

Hi all.
Im in the middle of a 66 mustang restoration, right now working on the engine. The car originally was a 6 banger, Im dropping in a 5.0 GT40P from a Explorer, I think a 95 model (not sure)..
I had to machine the block to .20 because of water getting in the 1 & 2 cylinders... Otherwise the engine was in really good shape!
I have already all the pieces involved in the swap, and also the items involved in the EFI to carb conversion..
I need you guys to help me with this:

1- Does the torques for this engine are posted in the thread " https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...que-specs.html " according to the year of my engine? (think 1995, correct me if Im wrong)

2- I want to replace cylinder head bolts, does anyone have a link (could be from summit) for the ones for my application?

Thanks all in advance!!
Sorry for my bad english!!

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If it's a '95, I think it'd be a GT40 engine, not P heads. GT40 heads have three bars cast into the ends of them, and GT40P have four. The GT40P heads are worth 10-15 horsepower over the GT40 heads (dependent on cam, compression ratio, and other things). They have a revised spark plug angle that makes them a little fussier about which headers/exhaust manifolds can be bolted up.


The GT40P was used in Mountaineers and Explorers from '97 to 2001.

Either way, they both use the same head bolts! I'd use some from your local Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/internal-en...988_79511_6229

If you are going to be taking the heads off and on a lot, get yourself some ARP studs.

Best wishes!


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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 2 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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If it's a '95, I think it'd be a GT40 engine, not P heads. GT40 heads have three bars cast into the ends of them, and GT40P have four. The GT40P heads are worth 10-15 horsepower over the GT40 heads (dependent on cam, compression ratio, and other things). They have a revised spark plug angle that makes them a little fussier about which headers/exhaust manifolds can be bolted up.


The GT40P was used in Mountaineers and Explorers from '97 to 2001.

Either way, they both use the same head bolts! I'd use some from your local Autozone. https://www.autozone.com/internal-en...988_79511_6229

If you are going to be taking the heads off and on a lot, get yourself some ARP studs.

Best wishes!
Hi!!! Thanks a lot for your reply!!
The engine indeed is a GT40P, (4 bar, GT40P on the head casting) so thanks for the imput about that is a 97 to 2001!!
I hope not to be taking the heads a lot!! so I think Im OK with the bolt set! I asked about a Summit link because I dont have any local Autozone (Im writing from Montevideo, Uruguay!) Could be a Ebay Link also! I read some time ago that my original bolts may be TTY bolts, Im not sure, how can I identify this? Anyways Im leaning to use ARP bolts in the reassembly, but seems I cannot find them anywere!
If you have in hand any link from Summit/eBay I would appreciate it!!!

Thanks in advance!!!
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Sorry 'bout that! here's a link to some on Summit. Actually, these are even cheaper than the ones I sent earlier - because for some weird reason, it looks like the other link was just for half the bolts you needed. Anyway, here you go: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...view/make/ford


I hate TTY bolts. Your engine does NOT require them, nor would I recommend them. Those are great for assembly lines and mass production, but not so good for guys that want to work on their own cars. Who wants to throw out a set of expensive bolts every time you work on your car? Not me!

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Sorry 'bout that! here's a link to some on Summit. Actually, these are even cheaper than the ones I sent earlier - because for some weird reason, it looks like the other link was just for half the bolts you needed. Anyway, here you go: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...view/make/ford


I hate TTY bolts. Your engine does NOT require them, nor would I recommend them. Those are great for assembly lines and mass production, but not so good for guys that want to work on their own cars. Who wants to throw out a set of expensive bolts every time you work on your car? Not me!
Hi!! Thanks again for your reply!!
No problem about the Autozone link!! And thanks a lot for the Summit link you provide!!! One last question, you know if the ARP kit comes with their torque sequence or I must torque the heads with the info available at the "torque Thread", under 97-up engines?

Later today Im going to order the bolt kit, and I hope next week start the assembly of the engine!! I will post updates as I go.. in my original restoration thread (https://www.allfordmustangs.com/foru...o-uruguay.html), that I started on Feb 2015!!! .I still have a long way to go, but hoping to have the engine ready by the end of August!!

Thanks again!!
Greetings from Uruguay!!
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Greetings from Kansas, in the United States to you, Stang66guy! Awesome to have people on here from other countries, and I am glad to help. (It's a good thing you speak English so well, because I know I couldn't speak your native tongue, even if I knew what it was) *grin*

If I can make a recommendation, get the Ford shop manual for your car. It will help you SO MUCH with everything you do. And even though your engine is much newer than a '66, things like torque specs for the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, and water pumps/timing covers have remained pretty much the same for all Windsor small block engines. Make sure you use some kind of sealant for bolts that will be going through the water jacket, because when they are old and rusty, they are sure hard to get out - and you don't want leaks. The '66 shop manual will cover all that stuff, and give helpful pointers for things that can trip you up. It's very easy to read, step-by-step and full of common sense.

The torque sequence is important, because the metal from the heads will 'stretch' a little as the bolts tighten them down. Having proper lubrication and clean bolt holes is also really important, so the metal surfaces don't give you an improper torque reading. Imagine screwing in an old dirty rusty bolt, and torquing it to 80 lbs. It takes a lot of force to overcome all the grit and abrasive on the threads! The clamping force for that (pulling the head down against the block) would be much lower than a clean, well-oiled bolt that is also torqued to 80 lbs. This is one reason that TTY bolts are in common use now, because the 'fail' in them yields very consistent clamping forces. But if you take the time to make sure everything is done right, you will never have trouble with 'regular' bolts or studs at all - and frankly, because they are made from stronger materials, I feel that they do a better job than the TTY ones anyway. =)

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This may or may not be correct.
The guy on this links question is kind of funny but the reply might be accurate.
https://www.2carpros.com/questions/f...-and-tightenin
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If I ever find someone that can spin a torque wrench with their hands at 3200 RPMs, delivering 274 lb-ft, I am going to call Guinness. Not sure that would be handy for tightening head bolts, but it'd be danged impressive.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
If I ever find someone that can spin a torque wrench with their hands at 3200 RPMs, delivering 274 lb-ft, I am going to call Guinness. Not sure that would be handy for tightening head bolts, but it'd be danged impressive.
Ha yep.
Is that drawing underneath correct?
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The sequence is right, but I'd go 55-65-100 on torquing it down. (no more than 110)

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Originally Posted by Grimbrand View Post
Greetings from Kansas, in the United States to you, Stang66guy! Awesome to have people on here from other countries, and I am glad to help. (It's a good thing you speak English so well, because I know I couldn't speak your native tongue, even if I knew what it was) *grin*

If I can make a recommendation, get the Ford shop manual for your car. It will help you SO MUCH with everything you do. And even though your engine is much newer than a '66, things like torque specs for the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, and water pumps/timing covers have remained pretty much the same for all Windsor small block engines. Make sure you use some kind of sealant for bolts that will be going through the water jacket, because when they are old and rusty, they are sure hard to get out - and you don't want leaks. The '66 shop manual will cover all that stuff, and give helpful pointers for things that can trip you up. It's very easy to read, step-by-step and full of common sense.

The torque sequence is important, because the metal from the heads will 'stretch' a little as the bolts tighten them down. Having proper lubrication and clean bolt holes is also really important, so the metal surfaces don't give you an improper torque reading. Imagine screwing in an old dirty rusty bolt, and torquing it to 80 lbs. It takes a lot of force to overcome all the grit and abrasive on the threads! The clamping force for that (pulling the head down against the block) would be much lower than a clean, well-oiled bolt that is also torqued to 80 lbs. This is one reason that TTY bolts are in common use now, because the 'fail' in them yields very consistent clamping forces. But if you take the time to make sure everything is done right, you will never have trouble with 'regular' bolts or studs at all - and frankly, because they are made from stronger materials, I feel that they do a better job than the TTY ones anyway. =)
Hi!!! yes, sure is one of the good things of the Internet, I mean, I never visited USA, you never visited Uruguay and here we are, chatting about american cars About my english, I sure write it better than I speak it!! and here we talk Spanish! I sure appreciate your help!! I have already ordered the head bolts kit, so I hope to continue with the plan and next week start the assembly of the short block!! As I mentioned in the other post, I will post updates of the build as I have them...

About the book, I have the 1966 Ford Workshop Manual in PDF, but the chapter 8 (engine) is missing!!! .
I also have the book "how to rebuild your small block ford" by Tom Monroe but I didnt know if the info is the same for the newer versions of the 5.0! (apart of the roller valve train) But I will see if I can get the missing chapter 8!

Thanks about the tips and reccomendations for reassembly, yes, Im planning on tap/clean all the threads prior to reassembly, the engine was in really good shape but with water in cylinders 1 & 2, I suspect the water entered by the intake, during washing or while the engine was sitting when removed... but otherwise the damage in this cylinders and a couple of broken studs of the exhaust manifolds, the rest of the components where in great shape!! We bore the cylinders to .20, the crankshaft remained STD, the heads just need cleaning, valves re seated and thats about it.

I think Im going to receive the head bolts kit in a couple of weeks, hoping to have the short block ready by that time!! fingers crossed!!!

BTW Nice cougar!!!!!
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Originally Posted by Stang66uy View Post
Hi!!! yes, sure is one of the good things of the Internet, I mean, I never visited USA, you never visited Uruguay and here we are, chatting about american cars About my english, I sure write it better than I speak it!! and here we talk Spanish! I sure appreciate your help!! I have already ordered the head bolts kit, so I hope to continue with the plan and next week start the assembly of the short block!! As I mentioned in the other post, I will post updates of the build as I have them...

About the book, I have the 1966 Ford Workshop Manual in PDF, but the chapter 8 (engine) is missing!!! .
I also have the book "how to rebuild your small block ford" by Tom Monroe but I didnt know if the info is the same for the newer versions of the 5.0! (apart of the roller valve train) But I will see if I can get the missing chapter 8!

Thanks about the tips and reccomendations for reassembly, yes, Im planning on tap/clean all the threads prior to reassembly, the engine was in really good shape but with water in cylinders 1 & 2, I suspect the water entered by the intake, during washing or while the engine was sitting when removed... but otherwise the damage in this cylinders and a couple of broken studs of the exhaust manifolds, the rest of the components where in great shape!! We bore the cylinders to .20, the crankshaft remained STD, the heads just need cleaning, valves re seated and thats about it.

I think Im going to receive the head bolts kit in a couple of weeks, hoping to have the short block ready by that time!! fingers crossed!!!

BTW Nice cougar!!!!!
Hola. Que tal? Soy de Texas.
I'm just curious, what camshaft are you going to use? The explorer cam? If you have the extra dinero a new cam and valvetrain would go along way in the power department. Relatively speaking of course.
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Hola. Que tal? Soy de Texas.
I'm just curious, what camshaft are you going to use? The explorer cam? If you have the extra dinero a new cam and valvetrain would go along way in the power department. Relatively speaking of course.
Hola!!! Mucho gusto!!! yo de Montevideo!!!

Yes, at first Im going to use the explorer cam.. At the time prior the purchase of the engine, I research some about the subject... I read that the original cam its tuned for low rpm torque, that make sense because of the size of the explorer and application... and with cam/rocker/springs this engine really wakes up!

But... as you mentioned, the thing here is the extra dinero!!! hehe. For me, the cost of the parts are double of the US price (shipping/taxes)... I still have to rebuild the T5, modify/rebuild the 9", paint the car, purchase parts for the reassembly of the body, so the extra dinero at the moment is going that route...

At this, lets say "Stage 1" of the engines second life, will go with weiand stealth intake, holley 600 carb, HEI distributor and thats about it... In the "accesories" department, Im going with mechanical fuel pump, early style water pump, ford performance V belt alluminium pulleys, powerforce damper, Ford Racing tall valve covers, so nothing fancy in the "Stage 1"! After the car is complete and running and the extra dinero becomes again available, Im sure I will start a "Stage 2"! but for the moment, Im just putting the motor back togheter an on the running stand!!! Hope to post soon a video of the engine running!!!

Greetings from Uruguay!!!
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Hola. Que tal? Soy de Texas.
I'm just curious, what camshaft are you going to use? The explorer cam? If you have the extra dinero a new cam and valvetrain would go along way in the power department. Relatively speaking of course.
Hola!!! Mucho gusto!!! yo de Montevideo!!! [IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/AllFordMustangs-vbtoucan/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG][IMG class=inlineimg]/forums/images/AllFordMustangs-vbtoucan/smilies/tango_face_grin.png[/IMG]

Yes, at first Im going to use the explorer cam.. At the time prior the purchase of the engine, I research some about the subject... I read that the original cam its tuned for low rpm torque, that make sense because of the size of the explorer and application... and with cam/rocker/springs this engine really wakes up!

But... as you mentioned, the thing here is the extra dinero!!! hehe. For me, the cost of the parts are double of the US price (shipping/taxes)... I still have to rebuild the T5, modify/rebuild the 9", paint the car, purchase parts for the reassembly of the body, so the extra dinero at the moment is going that route...

At this, lets say "Stage 1" of the engines second life, will go with weiand stealth intake, holley 600 carb, HEI distributor and thats about it... In the "accesories" department, Im going with mechanical fuel pump, early style water pump, ford performance V belt alluminium pulleys, powerforce damper, Ford Racing tall valve covers, so nothing fancy in the "Stage 1"! After the car is complete and running and the extra dinero becomes again available, Im sure I will start a "Stage 2"! but for the moment, Im just putting the motor back togheter an on the running stand!!! Hope to post soon a video of the engine running!!! [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/images/smilies/wosautos118.gif[/IMG]

Greetings from Uruguay!!!
I understand the money whe’s. For me there’s always something and there’s never enough.
What sort of cars are running around Uruguay? Modern, not so modern? Both?
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I understand the money whes. For me theres always something and theres never enough.
What sort of cars are running around Uruguay? Modern, not so modern? Both?
Here the average cars running around are new (2010ish and up). Here the gas is expensive (like 1.5USD/L) so most of the cars have small displacement engines (1.5L average)... But we also have cool cars around! check this instagram page https://www.instagram.com/exoticosuy/ that captures exotic cars running in our streets.

Greetings from Uruguay!!

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