A/C Compressor replacement - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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A/C Compressor replacement

So I’m 99% sure that my compressor is leaking because the bottom is oily and greasy. What all is involved in replacing it. What stinks is the whole system except for the condenser are pretty new and were rarely used. I guess I’ll replace drier because that’s what you’re supposed to do but I bet it’s ok.
I haven’t crawled under and looked real close yet. But to remove the old compressor is it just removing a few bolts and discommecting a couple of lines?
Also, if the atmosphere is what’s damaging the dryer when the system is open, then how does one get the new one out of the box and plumbed in without the “damp atmospheric air” getting into the new one?

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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Can't recall if the battery and tray actually need to be removed or not, but I did anyway. Aside from that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the system, undo the belt, wiring connector, line block, and unbolt the compressor. Remove from underneath.

The new drier will start absorbing moisture from the atmosphere immediately once the shipping caps are removed. I suppose there's no one-size-fits-all answer to how long you have to work, as it likely varies by climate. If you connect everything right away, it will only absorb moisture from inside the system. But to keep that saturation to an absolute minimum, you could leave the drier capped and wait to connect the lines until you're just about ready to evac & charge the system.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Can't recall if the battery and tray actually need to be removed or not, but I did anyway. Aside from that, it's pretty straightforward. Drain the system, undo the belt, wiring connector, line block, and unbolt the compressor. Remove from underneath.

The new drier will start absorbing moisture from the atmosphere immediately once the shipping caps are removed. I suppose there's no one-size-fits-all answer to how long you have to work, as it likely varies by climate. If you connect everything right away, it will only absorb moisture from inside the system. But to keep that saturation to an absolute minimum, you could leave the drier capped and wait to connect the lines until you're just about ready to evac & charge the system.
Thanks man. How are the lines connected to the compressor? With a quick connect that uses the line tool or do they have threaded fittings? What brand did you go with? The last time I got a kit from discountautoac.com that included the drier, lines, and compressor. But I don’t want to buy that one again because it didn’t last. I’m leaning towards a Denso compressor.
I don’t think there’s any r134a left in the system to be evacuated.
*Edit*
I see the lines screw in.

Last edited by 90lxwhite; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:27 AM.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Crap. The $135 denso I was eyeballing doesn’t come with the clutch I don’t think. Although it looks like there’s one on it in the picture. They have another that states “with clutch” for $178. It also says that it’s for “dealer installed a/c,” which I’m guessing mine is “factory installed.” Do y’all think this $178 denso will fit? $135 seemed low. I knew it was too good to be true.
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/19...ompressor.html
The motorcaft is pretty high and it doesn’t come with a clutch.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Not sure who actually made the Carquest-boxed compressor I went with. Been a few years now, it's still chooching along just fine.

The lines aren't threaded with flare nuts or anything like that. The "manifold" is actually a block with the two lines permanently mounted to it, and it attaches to the compressor via a retaining bolt and a couple of O-rings.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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They are ac quick disconnect lines...Ö.chances are the ac case split.....

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
Not sure who actually made the Carquest-boxed compressor I went with. Been a few years now, it's still chooching along just fine.

The lines aren't threaded with flare nuts or anything like that. The "manifold" is actually a block with the two lines permanently mounted to it, and it attaches to the compressor via a retaining bolt and a couple of O-rings.
Ah so the you unbolt the manifold and the bolts holding the compressor in and it’s free?
I was watching this yahoo and I assumed the lines had fittings that screwed into the compressor.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=PF9QgwllvSI
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
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That's a 4.6L compressor, ours have the connections on the back side of the compressor. But the attaching method is still the same. There are no threads in the ports themselves. Just a threaded hole between them to hold the manifold in place. Here's a better pic:
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Urambo Tauro View Post
That's a 4.6L compressor, ours have the connections on the back side of the compressor. But the attaching method is still the same. There are no threads in the ports themselves. Just a threaded hole between them to hold the manifold in place. Here's a better pic:
Ah thanks.
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