"Camber Kit" - 1991 Mustang LX 5.0L - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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"Camber Kit" - 1991 Mustang LX 5.0L

Question from someone with little/no experience with a non-full framed car, but my alignment guy said I needed a 'camber kit' for the left side - he didn't have it at his shop but can do the camber adjustment later on. He was able to get toe in perfect, and caster. The final adjustment spec for camber for left side was -1.69 degrees (spec is -0.63 degrees). Which Moog kit would be preferred for this?

K100024 ?
K928 ?
K90476 ?
K80059 (camber wedge) ?

Thanks in advance!

RT


1995 Impala SS. 396 LT4 intake and heads, with GM/Crane 847 Cam. Tri-Y headers. T56 6 speed conversion. 4.56 gears. 58mm TB (Holley) with RAISS intake. Cat delete. OBD2 PCM. Bryan Herter Programming (custom).
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis. Cold air intake. 3G alternator upgrade. Bone stock otherwise...
1974 F-100 with 390 HP (from 66 Fairlane GT).
1991 Ford Mustang LX, 5.0L, Bone Stock
1996 Buick Roadmaster. LT1. Bone Stock
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It looks like Moog HDW-3105CB is what you want. What is your suspension setup? Is it dropped real low? Maybe a set of caster camber plates would do you some good. Going real low from the stock ride height isn’t all that great for handling for whatever that’s worth.
https://lmr.com/item/HDW-3105CB/1979...justment-Bolts

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Over the years as struts and strut mounts are replaced on the car it's common to run into camber problems not associated with lowering. Even on my 2012 going to aftermarket struts Ive run into camber issues that needed a camber bolt kit.

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Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
Over the years as struts and strut mounts are replaced on the car it's common to run into camber problems not associated with lowering. Even on my 2012 going to aftermarket struts Ive run into camber issues that needed a camber bolt kit.
Due to the mounts getting “wallered” out?
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I used a GT500 strut mount with KYB struts and that caused the camber to be unadjustable without the camber bolt kit.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
Over the years as struts and strut mounts are replaced on the car it's common to run into camber problems not associated with lowering. Even on my 2012 going to aftermarket struts Ive run into camber issues that needed a camber bolt kit.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
I used a GT500 strut mount with KYB struts and that caused the camber to be unadjustable without the camber bolt kit.
Ah. I thought originally you were saying that the reason for his issue might be because of damaged parts and not due to the addition of aftermarket parts. Yeah, aftermarket parts can change the geometry.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
It looks like Moog HDW-3105CB is what you want. What is your suspension setup? Is it dropped real low? Maybe a set of caster camber plates would do you some good. Going real low from the stock ride height isn’t all that great for handling for whatever that’s worth.
https://lmr.com/item/HDW-3105CB/1979...justment-Bolts
No, this mustang is stock. No lowering done to it. Are the bolts easier and would it work to do them?

1995 Impala SS. 396 LT4 intake and heads, with GM/Crane 847 Cam. Tri-Y headers. T56 6 speed conversion. 4.56 gears. 58mm TB (Holley) with RAISS intake. Cat delete. OBD2 PCM. Bryan Herter Programming (custom).
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis. Cold air intake. 3G alternator upgrade. Bone stock otherwise...
1974 F-100 with 390 HP (from 66 Fairlane GT).
1991 Ford Mustang LX, 5.0L, Bone Stock
1996 Buick Roadmaster. LT1. Bone Stock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alchemist2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
It looks like Moog HDW-3105CB is what you want. What is your suspension setup? Is it dropped real low? Maybe a set of caster camber plates would do you some good. Going real low from the stock ride height isn’t all that great for handling for whatever that’s worth.
https://lmr.com/item/HDW-3105CB/1979...justment-Bolts
No, this mustang is stock. No lowering done to it. Are the bolts easier and would it work to do them?
I’ve never used them but google says they work. Since it’s stock and he had trouble getting aligned that would lead one to think that something is broken or bent. Did the front end guy allude to why he couldn’t get it dialed it? I’d look into getting whatever is messed up fixed. The bolts might “band-aid it” though. I wouldn’t do caster/camber plates to correct it as you shouldn’t need them with stock suspension parts.
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I’ve never used them but google says they work. Since it’s stock and he had trouble getting aligned that would lead one to think that something is broken or bent. Did the front end guy allude to why he couldn’t get it dialed it? I’d look into getting whatever is messed up fixed. The bolts might “band-aid it” though. I wouldn’t do caster/camber plates to correct it as you shouldn’t need them with stock suspension parts.
It's not that my front end guy couldn't or didn't know how - he just mentioned he needed the camber kit and that would take care of it. Thinking of saving a little $ and installing myself. Current left camber is -1.79 degrees and specs say I need -0.63 degrees. Then would take it back to him and he can finish confirming the alignment (likely he'll have to tweak it and also, adding the camber bolt might also affect toe in, though i hope not.

1995 Impala SS. 396 LT4 intake and heads, with GM/Crane 847 Cam. Tri-Y headers. T56 6 speed conversion. 4.56 gears. 58mm TB (Holley) with RAISS intake. Cat delete. OBD2 PCM. Bryan Herter Programming (custom).
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis. Cold air intake. 3G alternator upgrade. Bone stock otherwise...
1974 F-100 with 390 HP (from 66 Fairlane GT).
1991 Ford Mustang LX, 5.0L, Bone Stock
1996 Buick Roadmaster. LT1. Bone Stock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alchemist2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
I’ve never used them but google says they work. Since it’s stock and he had trouble getting aligned that would lead one to think that something is broken or bent. Did the front end guy allude to why he couldn’t get it dialed it? I’d look into getting whatever is messed up fixed. The bolts might “band-aid it” though. I wouldn’t do caster/camber plates to correct it as you shouldn’t need them with stock suspension parts.
It's not that my front end guy couldn't or didn't know how - he just mentioned he needed the camber kit and that would take care of it. Thinking of saving a little $ and installing myself. Current left camber is -1.79 degrees and specs say I need -0.63 degrees. Then would take it back to him and he can finish confirming the alignment (likely he'll have to tweak it and also, adding the camber bolt might also affect toe in, though i hope not.
What I’m getting at is, if it’s stock it should be able to be aligned without those bolts unless something is broken or bent. I take it that the alignment man didn’t say why he wasn’t able to get it aligned without using those bolts. I would probably find out why Incase you’re riding around on a busted spindle or something. Had it been wrecked?
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@RT; it really would be an good thing to have the front suspension checked out if the tech didn't give it a good look over.

There are reasons the camber can be off.

There are instances where aftermarket parts will not stuck-up properly causing alignment issues such as my instance where I installed some different Ford strut mounts and aftermarket struts. If you owned the car the whole time you might recall front suspension work that might be a factor.

And there can be worn components that can affect camber such as 90LX correctly pointed out. Wheel bearings, ball joints, bad struts, etc.

And mechanics mess up too. When I had tie rod ends replaced a couple years ago the guys failed to tighten the castle nut all the way on the right outer tie rod and they aligned the car like that. I drove home and investigated a clunking noise when I entered my drive way and found the tie rod end loose. I can only imagine the mess if the castle nut worked itself off and the tie rod end dropped free. . I tightened the castle nut and drove back the next day and had them realign the car.

It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes for the alignment tech to lift the car and check the suspension before proceeding to install the camber bolt kit and doing the alignment.

It's good you're having the alignment done if nothing else it will save some tires.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
@RT; it really would be an good thing to have the front suspension checked out if the tech didn't give it a good look over.

There are reasons the camber can be off.

There are instances where aftermarket parts will not stuck-up properly causing alignment issues such as my instance where I installed some different Ford strut mounts and aftermarket struts. If you owned the car the whole time you might recall front suspension work that might be a factor.

And there can be worn components that can affect camber such as 90LX correctly pointed out. Wheel bearings, ball joints, bad struts, etc.

And mechanics mess up too. When I had tie rod ends replaced a couple years ago the guys failed to tighten the castle nut all the way on the right outer tie rod and they aligned the car like that. I drove home and investigated a clunking noise when I entered my drive way and found the tie rod end loose. I can only imagine the mess if the castle nut worked itself off and the tie rod end dropped free. . I tightened the castle nut and drove back the next day and had them realign the car.

It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes for the alignment tech to lift the car and check the suspension before proceeding to install the camber bolt kit and doing the alignment.

It's good you're having the alignment done if nothing else it will save some tires.
He already inspected it and lined up everything (toe in, basically). He did put on a new inner tie rod in on the opposite (right) side. But looking at our cars, there's no camber adjustment, but things do wear over time, leading to needing those camber bolts, right? Surely, Moog wouldn't just make those camber kits to cover up for everyone having worn out front ends? I know other cars that don't have camber adjustments. My GM B bodies have upper CA shafts that you add shims to (front and/or back) to get more or less camber). These cars don't have that provision.

1995 Impala SS. 396 LT4 intake and heads, with GM/Crane 847 Cam. Tri-Y headers. T56 6 speed conversion. 4.56 gears. 58mm TB (Holley) with RAISS intake. Cat delete. OBD2 PCM. Bryan Herter Programming (custom).
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis. Cold air intake. 3G alternator upgrade. Bone stock otherwise...
1974 F-100 with 390 HP (from 66 Fairlane GT).
1991 Ford Mustang LX, 5.0L, Bone Stock
1996 Buick Roadmaster. LT1. Bone Stock
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alchemist2 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by ONEZ ST View Post
@RT; it really would be an good thing to have the front suspension checked out if the tech didn't give it a good look over.

There are reasons the camber can be off.

There are instances where aftermarket parts will not stuck-up properly causing alignment issues such as my instance where I installed some different Ford strut mounts and aftermarket struts. If you owned the car the whole time you might recall front suspension work that might be a factor.

And there can be worn components that can affect camber such as 90LX correctly pointed out. Wheel bearings, ball joints, bad struts, etc.

And mechanics mess up too. When I had tie rod ends replaced a couple years ago the guys failed to tighten the castle nut all the way on the right outer tie rod and they aligned the car like that. I drove home and investigated a clunking noise when I entered my drive way and found the tie rod end loose. I can only imagine the mess if the castle nut worked itself off and the tie rod end dropped free. . I tightened the castle nut and drove back the next day and had them realign the car.

It shouldn't take more than 20 minutes for the alignment tech to lift the car and check the suspension before proceeding to install the camber bolt kit and doing the alignment.

It's good you're having the alignment done if nothing else it will save some tires.
He already inspected it and lined up everything (toe in, basically). He did put on a new inner tie rod in on the opposite (right) side. But looking at our cars, there's no camber adjustment, but things do wear over time, leading to needing those camber bolts, right? Surely, Moog wouldn't just make those camber kits to cover up for everyone having worn out front ends? I know other cars that don't have camber adjustments. My GM B bodies have upper CA shafts that you add shims to (front and/or back) to get more or less camber). These cars don't have that provision.
Either worn front ends or altered parts I think. What else would cause a car that once would align but now won’t? If it has stock parts surely at one time in its life it was able to align. Maybe it rolled out of the factory out of whack. I believe the kits are just skinnier bolts than what’s in there now, and the skinny allows for a little adjustments.
I looked for hdw-3105cb on Moog’s site and nothing came up. So I think it must be obsolete and the vendors are selling what’s left out there. Moog did list some camber wedges for the foxbody though.
https://www.moog-suspension-parts.com/moog-k8825
*edit*
I found this chart with mustang alignment specs. ‘79-‘13’s camber range is from -3/4 to -1.5. Might be the same for the newer ones too but the chart only went up to 2013.
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...Specifications

Last edited by 90lxwhite; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:32 AM.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 1 Week Ago Thread Starter
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I tried getting those strut to spindle bolts off. They are pure biotch!! Got the upper one loose with a 2” breaker bar but not the lower, even after penetrating oil. There’s no space to get a ratchet/socket on the 15/16 nut. I tried on the bolt side (13/16) but no luck. Betting only option is air, or maybe removing rotor and dust shield?

Thanks for any help. LMR makes it look way too easy.

1995 Impala SS. 396 LT4 intake and heads, with GM/Crane 847 Cam. Tri-Y headers. T56 6 speed conversion. 4.56 gears. 58mm TB (Holley) with RAISS intake. Cat delete. OBD2 PCM. Bryan Herter Programming (custom).
1990 Mercury Grand Marquis. Cold air intake. 3G alternator upgrade. Bone stock otherwise...
1974 F-100 with 390 HP (from 66 Fairlane GT).
1991 Ford Mustang LX, 5.0L, Bone Stock
1996 Buick Roadmaster. LT1. Bone Stock
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