A/C, smog and cats deleted. Will the ECU still function properly? - Ford Mustang Forum
Like Tree2Likes
  • 1 Post By wbrockstar
  • 1 Post By ONEZ ST
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
PONY Member
2.3L Member
 
evintho's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 681
 
Cool A/C, smog and cats deleted. Will the ECU still function properly?

Now I've decided, I'm back to using the '93 5.0 as a donor drivetrain for my '54 Customline.

I'll be deleting the entire A/C system including WOT relay. In addition, I'll be dumping the smog pump along with TAB & TAD valves/solenoid/head airtube. Also, a new exhaust system will be created WITHOUT any catalytic converters.
The ECU and all engine compartment wiring harnesses will be transferred to the '54.

Question: Will that have any ill effects concerning the ECU? Will the ECU still function properly with those systems deleted?


'93 5.0 LX ragtop - Donor car for '54 Ford Customline
'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
evintho is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,750
           
Yes.

90lxwhite is online now  
post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
PONY Member
2.3L Member
 
evintho's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 681
 
Cool

So the ECU will function properly with those systems deleted?

'93 5.0 LX ragtop - Donor car for '54 Ford Customline
'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
evintho is offline  
 
post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
PONY Member
 
Travis98146's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2016
Location: Seattle
Posts: 963
 
Garage
Since the '93 is OBDI, it might work without the smog & cat sensors. You may encounter issues with fuel mixture.
Travis98146 is offline  
post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
GT Member
 
wbrockstar's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Nashville
Posts: 2,141
 
Yes the ecu will work fine with those items deleted.Nope you will Not have any fuel mixture issues.Just make sure to plug the thermactor passage ports on the rear of both heads unless you wanna leave the crossover pipe in place and just cap it off where the diverter valve hose was attached.The deletion of the smog pump and the other thermactor system parts may trigger codes.If it does,codes 33,81,82,84,85,44 & 94 will be the ones you would likely get.These codes are called “Soft-Codes” & they dont affect the engines fuel spark programming.The codes harmlessly remain dormant in the computer.Their only purpose is to help you repair those systems back to original factory specs (if you ever decide to add them back to the vehicle) Soft Codes will not turn the check engine light on,but even if they did,it wouldn't matter in your application anyway,since you're dropping everything into a 54 which doesn't have a cel.As far as removing the cats go,it won't create any issues with the ecu,but you and the car will smell like raw gas or exhaust fumes during/after every drive. When you get the harness in the engine bay,make sure you remove the AC WOT relay and not the fuel pump relay,since they're located beside each other on the harness.Make sure you buy a oem type negative battery cable or buy some 10ga black wire to use for the following.The oem cable has the 10ga wire added to it already,so it makes things easier,but you can use a seperate wire if you want.The wire runs from the neg battery post to the driver fender apron then splits off and runs a few inches before dead ending at a black tubular plug.This plug connects to a matching plug at the end of the main engine harness.This is your EEC Ground & its imperative on efi setup Its also the ground that completes the ground loop.Also dont forget to ground the orange wire (in the injector harness) with the ring terminal to a intake bolt,a crossover pipe bolt or to another good ground.Its the ground for the o2 sensors.Dont forget the ground strap between the driver cylinder head (rear) & the firewall too.

1991 Mustang lx
D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's
wbrockstar is offline  
post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
PONY Member
2.3L Member
 
evintho's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 681
 
Cool

Excellent! I was hoping you'd chime in. You've explained everything to a tee, thank you!
Question: With cats deleted, why would the car smell like raw gas or exhaust fumes after every drive?
Also, I do plan to fab up a CEL for the dash to let me know of any issues.

'93 5.0 LX ragtop - Donor car for '54 Ford Customline
'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
evintho is offline  
post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 4 Weeks Ago
SHELBY GT 350 Member
 
90lxwhite's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,750
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by evintho View Post
Excellent! I was hoping you'd chime in. You've explained everything to a tee, thank you!
Question: With cats deleted, why would the car smell like raw gas or exhaust fumes after every drive?
Also, I do plan to fab up a CEL for the dash to let me know of any issues.
I don’t have the scientific answer but cats help burn off unburned hydro carbons, and convert oxygen and carbon dioxide into carbon monoxide. I think it’s called the carbonaro effect..
When I had my ‘90 it came with an off road x pipe and the cabin smelled like a gas pump. Come inspection time I had two “high flow” cats added and the smell went away. Are the unburned hydro carbons fuel vapors, and that’s what we’re smelling?
90lxwhite is online now  
post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
GT Member
 
wbrockstar's Avatar
 
Joined: Aug 2013
Location: Nashville
Posts: 2,141
 
I sourced the following from Jrichker at Stangnet.

"The Reduction catalyst is the first converter in a 5.0 Mustang, and the Oxidation converter is the second converter. The Oxidation converter uses the extra air from the smog pump to burn the excess HC. Aftermarket converters that use the smog pump often combine both types of catalysts in one housing. Both converter types depend on heat to function correctly."
(Now for the Chemistry)
"The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example:
(2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2)"

"The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas."

If the fpr or an injector is leaking or the engine is running rich with too much fuel, the excess fuel is unburned and escapes with the exhaust gasses into the exhaust.Exhaust emissions are composed of carbon dioxide, nitrogen, water vapor, and oxygen in unconsumed air. Carbon monoxide, unburned fuel, nitrogen oxides, and particulate matter such as mercury are also present in vehicle exhaust emissions in smaller quantities.
Beechkid likes this.

1991 Mustang lx
D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's
wbrockstar is offline  
post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago
GLOBAL MODERATOR
5.0L Member
S197 Member
 
ONEZ ST's Avatar
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Iowa Park
Posts: 7,050
           
The Customline, sure brings back memories from youth. You have to post some pictures as this progresses. Pop had a blue 53 and spent countless hours polishing the abundant chrome trim, hub caps, and bumpers. He had that for over 10 years at which time he sold it and got feeling back in his fingers not having to polish it.

We have a few parked out in the Texas fields where they were laid to rest decades ago when owners died and homesteads abandoned. Most are too rusted and missing parts and glass to restore and others became targets for shooters. One thing nice about Calif is the appreciation for classics that are restored or turned into Rods.
Beechkid likes this.

----------------------------
2012 Mustang GT, Roush 2300 Black
2006 Mustang V6 Manual Legend Lime Sold
2019 Charger Scat Pack White
2016 Jeep Willys Silver Vin 060 RIP
2016 Jeep Willys Silver Vin 059 Sold
ONEZ ST is online now  
post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 3 Weeks Ago Thread Starter
PONY Member
2.3L Member
 
evintho's Avatar
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 681
 
Cool

I recently finished the roadster (9 years in the making) and have been enjoying it all summer........



Now it's time to begin the '54 project.......



And, just to keep it Mustang related, I picked this up for $1500 and have been enjoying it for the last 3 years. It'll be donating the 5.0/AOD/ECU/wiring harness and various other parts and pieces to the '54 cause.



In the last couple of days I stripped the '54's front sheetmetal and built a blast barrier to contain the media when sandblasting.







Today I blasted the interior floorpans and front clip. No pics though, I was too busy blasting! Next up is get it into the garage and cut out the rusted floorpans then fab and install new ones. After that, rebuild and update the front and rear suspensions. At some point I'll be making a build thread over on the HAMB and I'll provide a link to that.

'93 5.0 LX ragtop - Donor car for '54 Ford Customline
'89 LX ragtop with turbo'd TC motor - Thunderstang!
'86 Turbo Coupe (daily driver)
evintho is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a VALID email address for yourself, otherwise you will not receive the necessary confirmation email needed to confirm, validate and activate your new AFM member account.

Failure to provide a VALID email address, will result in the cancellation of your new AFM member account registration.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 


Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.1