Stretched Clutch Cable - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-23-2019 Thread Starter
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I think my clutch cable is on its way out. The other day it had a hard time getting in gear with the motor running but it finally did. This morning I moved it and then it did the same thing. It was in idling in neutral and I couldn’t get it in gear. When I killed it shifted freely. I was on the way out of town so I hadn’t driven it yet. I just killed it and left. The clutch is new and the pedal feel still feels good. It still engages at the same point as well.
Does that sound like a stretched cable? Is it pretty awful to replace without a lift?

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post #2 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019 Thread Starter
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Well, now I dunno. It seems to act up after it’s been running awhile. Like once it gets hot. Easy to shift when cold. When it gets warm it’s sometimes hard to get into gear from neutral. It’s not hard to shift once it’s moving though.

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post #3 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019 Thread Starter
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I just took it for a drive. It might just be in my head but it seems like there’s a little more noise coming from under the shifter when idling. However once it acted like it wanted to get stuck in neural (idling) and I “double clutched it” and was able to get it into gear. It the shifted smoothly through the gears idling with the clutch in. That the cable y’all think? It didn’t act like it wanted to get stuck until it was warm again though. Hope my trans isn’t going out..
I have my eye on UPR’s non adjustable cable, and possibly a new oem style quadrant. Changing the quad looks to be a mofo though. I don’t really want to go the adjustable route. I’d rather set it and forget it if I can. The pedal is still pretty stiff and it engages fairly close to the floor. It’s a fairly new Centerforce Dual friction. It’s not burning or slipping.
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-n...-cable-79.html

https://www.npdlink.com/store/produc...66-146190.html
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post #4 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019
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Here's how to can tell....when it won't go into gear...shut the engine off, then see if it will...… at this point you have to physically inspect...it's either the cable (#1 choice) or the TO bearing/pressure plate is getting tired.....

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post #5 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019
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Does it currently have a oem cable & oem quadrant/pawl assembly?? If yes,have you tried the oem adjustment procedure?? Put it in neutral,floor/release the pedal a couple times,reach down with your hand,grab ahold of the clutch pedal,pull upward til it stops,release the pedal then place your foot on the pedal and slowly press it to the floor.Listen for an audible clicking noise.If one is heard,this indicates it was out of adjustment and you just adjusted it.If you're gonna run the oem quadrant/pawl assembly vs a 2-3 hook aluminum quadrant & adjustable cable or firewall adjuster,its highly recommended to buy only a non adjustable Ford oem cable because of how inferior aftermarket cables can be.Ford cables have several layers of varying materials whereas aftermarket cables dont.Im still unsure to this day why Ford or the aftermarket didnt manufacture an oem quadrant/pawl made out of aluminum or steel.Heavy duty clutches are said to possibly wear/strip out the teeth on the oem setup,but to me the oem system feels the best out of anything aftermarket setup.
The bottom cable in the following picture is a oem cable.
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post #6 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019
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The following is some info I bookmarked a few years ago.Source: Jrichker @ Stangnet



CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT INFO (JR)

Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt



Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.
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post #7 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-24-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
Does it currently have a oem cable & oem quadrant/pawl assembly?? If yes,have you tried the oem adjustment procedure?? Put it in neutral,floor/release the pedal a couple times,reach down with your hand,grab ahold of the clutch pedal,pull upward til it stops,release the pedal then place your foot on the pedal and slowly press it to the floor.Listen for an audible clicking noise.If one is heard,this indicates it was out of adjustment and you just adjusted it.If you're gonna run the oem quadrant/pawl assembly vs a 2-3 hook aluminum quadrant & adjustable cable or firewall adjuster,its highly recommended to buy only a non adjustable Ford oem cable because of how inferior aftermarket cables can be.Ford cables have several layers of varying materials whereas aftermarket cables dont.Im still unsure to this day why Ford or the aftermarket didnt manufacture an oem quadrant/pawl made out of aluminum or steel.Heavy duty clutches are said to possibly wear/strip out the teeth on the oem setup,but to me the oem system feels the best out of anything aftermarket setup.
The bottom cable in the following picture is a oem cable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
The following is some info I bookmarked a few years ago.Source: Jrichker @ Stangnet



CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT INFO (JR)

Do the clutch adjustment first before considering any other problems. With the stock plastic quadrant and cable, pull up on the clutch pedal until it comes upward toward you. It will make a ratcheting sound as the self adjuster works. To release to tension of the stock quadrant, use a screwdriver to lift the ratchet paw up and out of engagement with the quadrant teeth.

Binding clutch cable
A binding clutch cable will make the clutch very stiff. If the cable is misrouted or has gotten too close to the exhaust, it will definitely bind. The binding common to adjustable cables is often due to misplacement of the adjusting nuts on the fork end of the cable. This will also cause the cable to wear and fray. Both nuts should be on the back side of the fork so that the domed nut faces the fork and the other nut serves as jam or locknut to the domed nut.

Clutch pedal adjustment
Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

Adjustable clutch cable tips:
Loosening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the rear of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the floor.

Tightening the cable adjustment nut (throwout bearing arm moves to the front of the car) moves the disengagement point towards the top of the pedal.

The fancy 2 and 3 hook quadrants are for use with stock length cable and a firewall adjuster. Use the firewall adjuster and screw in and out to take the slack out of the cable and get the clutch engagement point just where you want it.

Firewall adjuster tips
Turning the firewall adjuster IN makes the engagement point closer to the floor since it loosens the cable. You have to push the pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. Too loose a cable and the clutch won't completely disengage and shifting will be difficult. Gears will grind and you may have difficulty getting the transmission in first gear when stopped.

Turning the firewall adjuster OUT makes the engagement point farther from the floor since it tightens the cable. You push a short distance to disengage the clutch. Too tight a cable will cause clutch slippage.

Aftermarket solutions to the problem:
The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just as good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable, firewall adjuster and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

Fix for the quadrant end of the cable popping out of the quadrant when installing a replacement cable courtesy of Grabbin' Asphalt



Help for those who have replaced the clutch assembly and are still having problems with adjustment:
The next step doesn't make much sense it you already have the transmission installed, but just for sake of discussion, here it is:
The throwout bearing sits in the clutch fork arm with the wave springs pressing on the rear flange of the throwout bearing.

Major differences between the distance between the flywheel surface and the clutch fingers may require tinkering with the clutch fork pivot ball. Stack your old pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel up like they were when installed in the car. Tighten down all the pressure plate bolts and measure the distance between the clutch fingertips and the flywheel face.
Too much thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far back to get the clutch cable on the quadrant. It may even sit against the rear or the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm. In that case, reduce the pivot ball height.
Too little thickness will cause the clutch fork arm to sit too far forward and bottom out against the front side of the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm.. This will prevent the clutch from fully disengaging.
In other words, the clutch fork arm should sit positioned midway or a little towards the rear in the bell housing hole for the clutch fork arm when the cable is properly tensioned.
Yeah it has the stock cable & quadrant. So I just pull up on it until it won’t go anymore? Then press down slowly?
As far as the cables go, shopping them is a little confusing. The only non adjustable one that I’ve found that is listed for a ‘95 is that UPR. They list it for ‘79-‘95, where as a every other brand (Steeda, etc,) lists their non adjustable’s for the Fox only. However, I read a post where a guy had a fox and a ‘95 cable and they were both 60”.
Steeda also states (I think) that their non adjustable cable requires the use of their quadrant. UPR says there’s are as good as ford but who knows. Will a fox cable work in a ‘95? Does Ford still make clutch cables for ours?
Steeda’s confusing description
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-172-0301.html
Thanks for your help.
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post #8 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019 Thread Starter
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Max Motor’s “OEM” Cable

Why does maximum motorsports’s “OEM” cable require the use of a non adjustable quadrant? If it’s “OEM” shouldn’t it work like OEM?

https://www.americanmuscle.com/maxim...wE#productInfo
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post #9 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-25-2019 Thread Starter
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I pulled up on the pedal it came up but I didn’t hear any ratcheting action going up or clicks pressing in. I drove it today and it hadn’t given me any problems again.
I reached out to Max Motor they don’t offer a direct replacement for a ‘94/‘95. They have a ‘96-‘04 direct replacement and one that’s pseudo universal but you have to get the firewall adjuster, etc. I read on forums that the fox and the 94/95 cables are both 60” long, and that the 96-04 are “longer.” UPR lists their cable as a direct replacement for ‘79-95, but if you scroll to the bottom it says it fits up to an ‘04. I also read on forums that one can use a ‘96+ cable in a fox/‘94/95. I wonder though, since the cable is longer would an adjuster be required? I also wonder, how long is that darn UPR cable? It’d have to be longer than an oem fox cable if it’s a direct replacement for an ‘00.
Are the cable ends the same on a fox and a ‘95 I wonder? If both cables are 60” I wonder why most mfg’s and vendors list cables for ‘82-‘93 and not up to ‘95? What’s different about them that they wouldn’t work on a ‘95?
*Edit*
Below is a copy and paste from another forum. but this is the gist. The fox cable and the 94/95 are different lengths if this guy is correct. The fox is a little shorter. He’s using a fox cable in his SN95 but he reports issues. I don’t think there’s a 94/95 direct replacement cable made. I bet the UPR cable is 70.5” long which is the length of the ‘96-‘04. Would y’all try a fox cable? I really don’t want to have to mess with adjustable cables. I’d probably set it too tight or too loose and burn my clutch out.
“The 94-95 cable is 62.25" in total length which would allow me to route the cable the same way on the foxbody (and give me the extra draw length that I need).

Currently I am using an OEM foxbody cable (59.25" in length).

Draw lengths for each cable are as follows:

OEM Foxbody = 11"
94-95 = 12.12"
Maximum Universal (96-up) = 11.25

My issue is that with my current set up, the clutch is engaging when the pedal is a little to high off of the floor and I can't adjust it to grab lower due to the fact that the firewall adjuster is already turned in as far as it can go.” - https://www.corral.net/threads/ford-...cable.1365039/

Last edited by 90lxwhite; 11-25-2019 at 11:07 PM.
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post #10 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019 Thread Starter
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I called UPR asking how long their OEM replacement cable that they have listed for '79-'95. The guy on the phone measured it and he said it was 59" so that's going to be a foxbody length.
This blows. My choices are a short “oem” fox cable, a long “oem” 96-04 cable & firewall adjuster, or ATP and some no name brand CJ Pony is selling. The ATP & Cj no name are 62.25”.

Last edited by 90lxwhite; 11-26-2019 at 02:14 PM.
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I called UPR asking how long their OEM replacement cable that they have listed for '79-'95. The guy on the phone measured it and he said it was 59" so that's going to be a foxbody length.
This blows. My choices are a short “oem” fox cable, a long “oem” 96-04 cable & firewall adjuster, or ATP and some no name brand CJ Pony is selling. The ATP & Cj no name are 62.25”.


This would be a good option for the money from Ford Performance
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post #12 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my89foxbody View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
I called UPR asking how long their OEM replacement cable that they have listed for '79-'95. The guy on the phone measured it and he said it was 59" so that's going to be a foxbody length.
This blows. My choices are a short “oem” fox cable, a long “oem” 96-04 cable & firewall adjuster, or ATP and some no name brand CJ Pony is selling. The ATP & Cj no name are 62.25”.


This would be a good option for the money from Ford Performance
There are a lot of those type on the market. An ‘82 and a ‘95 have two different length cables. That one is going to be long I believe, and I’ll need either a new quadrant and or firewall adjuster. I was hoping to not have to go the adjustable route. The non adjustable “oem” cables that max motor and others sell are copies of oem ‘96-‘04 mustang cables, and they are 70.5” long. So you have to buy their “kit” to make it work. You also have to hope that you have it adjusted “just so” so not to burn the clutch up. The same goes for adjustable cables, you gotta have some way to adjust them.
I was hoping to not have to go that route, but pickin’s are slim for a ‘94/95. There’s quite a few threads out there on clutch cable adjustment and it sounds like a pain.
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Im not sure if youve seen the info in the thread below,but they discuss the purpose of running certain cables with certain fwa's & quadrants.The info is from a different site.

https://www.corral.net/threads/every...sters.1214085/

1991 Mustang lx
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Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
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post #14 of 89 (permalink) Old 11-26-2019 Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wbrockstar View Post
Im not sure if youve seen the info in the thread below,but they discuss the purpose of running certain cables with certain fwa's & quadrants.The info is from a different site.

https://www.corral.net/threads/every...sters.1214085/
Yeah, the big issue is that I don’t want to run anything other than an oem style setup but there’s no Ford brand. There’s not very many off brands available either. I’ve found an ATP and one on CJ Pony that they said Pioneer makes, whoever they are. Making cables and speakers in the same factory?? Ha. https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-c...waAr15EALw_wcB

This guy liked his ATP so much that he wrote two reviews. I’ve read three reviews on it total. One was a one star and the other two reviews were 5 stars but from the same guy.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...tang/year/1995

*edit*
It looks like Pioneer is a no go.
https://www.corral.net/threads/bewar...ables.1030221/
If I go any other route than off-brand it turns in a pseudo spendy and complicated sounding deal. My options are a cable “kit” or Junk..
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Originally Posted by 90lxwhite View Post
Yeah, the big issue is that I don’t want to run anything other than an oem style setup but there’s no Ford brand. There’s not very many off brands available either. I’ve found an ATP and one on CJ Pony that they said Pioneer makes, whoever they are. Making cables and speakers in the same factory?? Ha. https://www.cjponyparts.com/clutch-c...waAr15EALw_wcB

This guy liked his ATP so much that he wrote two reviews. I’ve read three reviews on it total. One was a one star and the other two reviews were 5 stars but from the same guy.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...tang/year/1995

*edit*
It looks like Pioneer is a no go.
https://www.corral.net/threads/bewar...ables.1030221/
If I go any other route than off-brand it turns in a pseudo spendy and complicated sounding deal. My options are a cable “kit” or Junk..

I've run this kit before ford clutch related I liked that the FWA actually protects the FW from cracking. I never had an issue with it. I believe that they carry non adjustable cables as well. You would have to call to double check






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