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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020 Thread Starter
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Kim Trujillo's Avatar
 
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Help!

I'm trying to figure out exactly where this goes. For a while now I've had a terrible vibration issue. I can't fugue out if it is caused by the h pipe, catalytic converter or maybe even the smog pump. All i know is I'm getting terrible gas mileage, severe vibration and loss of power. If someone can give me some input I'd really appreciate it. It's near the drive shaft. 1994 Mustang GT 5.0 V8

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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-08-2020
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That appears to be the smog pump air injection pipe that gets connected to the airtube thats welded to your hpipe.The lower catalytic converters need fresh air pumped into them (thats supplied by the smog pump and is routed to the airtube on your hpipe through the pipe seen in your picture) in order to function correctly.If this
air isnt supplied,the converters will clog & fail.Another issue you'll have due to that pipe not being connected to the hpipe is,the open airtube on the hpipe will allow alot of outside air into the hpipe which may create a vacuum leak.A vacuum leak creates a lean condition which the computer will then try to compensate for by richening(adding fuel)
the fuel trim.If this disconnected pipe has caused a leak,this is likely why your fuel consumption has increased drastically,due to this richening of the fuel trim.Im not sure on the 94-95 models,but on the Foxbodys the upper portion of this air injection pipe has a bracket welded to it with a hole in it that was used to hold the pipe in place at its upper portion to keep it secured.A exhaust manifold studded bolt at cylinder #4 was used to secure the pipe to the engine,so if its secured there but the pipe has came completely off the hpipe airtube,anything the pipe is lying against (between its upper portion & lower portion) is gonna cause vibration anytime the engine is running or being revved or when the car is in motion, since the pipe is secured to the engine.So this is likely where the vibration is coming from.If the pipe just came loose and fell off the hpipe,you can just loosen the pipe clamp,force the pipe back onto the hpipe airtube then tighten the clamp back.If you cant get the pipe back onto the airtube for some reason,find a short piece of metal pipe that you can use as a splice between the pipe & airtube and put exhaust or several hose clamps on to keep everything tight & secured.
Its also possible that the engine itself is causing the vibration because of how the engine is physically running due to the pipe being off the airtube and the subsequent vacuum leak that has caused?? Rough idling,misfiring,etc normally occur anytime a vacuum leak is bad enough to cause driveability issues.Hopefully this pipe hasnt been off long enough to cause your cat converters to clog & fail.If theyre clogged,it would cause severe driveability issues.Hard starting,long crank times,etc would likely be present too.The loss of power & fuel consumption is a little worrying,as these could be some symptoms related to clogged converters,but a vacuum leak will also cause these same symptoms,so dont worry just yet.I would get the pipe reconnected then see if the vibration and driveability issues subside.

If a vacuum leak is present because of this pipe being disconnected,code 41 and/or 91 will likely be present when running codes.

The diagram below details the smog system and the injection pipes location.Its the orange pipe shown in the diagram.

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1991 Mustang lx
D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-10-2020
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+1 on that being the air tube for the smog system. I’ve been fighting that puppy for years.
It’s a snug fit on the BBK x pipe. I’ve always used a piece of heater hose to connect the two together. Wbrock Star! You didn’t reply to my power steering bracket question. You are a wiz. Please help
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old 01-12-2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilliedriveman View Post
+1 on that being the air tube for the smog system. I’ve been fighting that puppy for years.
It’s a snug fit on the BBK x pipe. I’ve always used a piece of heater hose to connect the two together. Wbrock Star! You didn’t reply to my power steering bracket question. You are a wiz. Please help

I didnt have to remove the ps pump pulley to get the ps pump/bracket off the engine on the 86-93 model,but you may have to on the 94-95 5.0 model,depending on which of the two methods below you use.

Method 1=
You can remove the bracket from the block using this method.The top bracket bolt (which is actually located directly below where the bottom of the ps pump is orientated on the bracket) that holds the bracket to the block is actually covered/ blocked partially by the pulley.(The picture at the bottom shows how the bolt would be covered by the pulley.) A 9/16 wrench will barely fit & some have mentioned the bolt is oftentimes so tight, that a wrench will round off the bolt head.So a socket should really be used,but this would require you to remove the pulley first.However,if you can get this bolt to break loose without damaging the bolt head,go ahead & break it loose then remove the other 2 bolts completely.Now back the top bolt out until it almost contacts the pulley,then hold onto the pump/bracket with one hand while you begin to back the bolt out a little at a time.As long as you keep the weight off the bolt as you're backing it out,by supporting the pump/bracket with your hand,& you move the pump/bracket towards the radiator as you loosen the bolt at the same time,the bracket will come off as soon as the end of this bolt clears the block.Doing this from underneath is most likely gonna be the best method due to the weight and the bolts close proximity to the pump/pulley.

Method 2=
You can remove the pump from the bracket or the bracket from the block using the following methods.Rent a pulley removal tool for a refundable deposit at your local parts store and remove the pulley.If you remove the pulley,you can use a socket on the hard to access/extract bolt I discussed in method 1 and this will let you remove the bracket/pump as one unit or just remove the pump only.If the bracket is not gonna be in the way of what you're doing and the pump/ reservoir is the only thing you need to get off,just remove the 3 short bolts holding the pump to the bracket,pull the pump off & leave the bracket where its at.

A member of another site stated he drilled a larger hole in one of the slots in his ps pump pulley so that he was able to use a socket & extension to slide through his newly made pulley hole to extract all 3 bolts that hold the ps pump to the ps pump bracket.He then extracted 1 bolt,rotated the pulley til the hole was aligned with the next bolt,extracted it & done the same to the last of the 3 bolts.This would be great,but unfortunately,he was using an aftermarket pulley with the slots in it,so that wouldn't work for someone like yourself who has the oem pulley still in place.

Hope this helps.
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1991 Mustang lx
D.S.S. 342ci {10.5:1}
TFS 190cc + track heat
Lunati 61011 .549".565"
Pro-M 76mm maf
Jetronic 30lb inj
QA1 Coilovers
17" Weld ProStar XP's

Last edited by wbrockstar; 01-12-2020 at 07:34 PM.
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