Another F*n problem,, Headers/Plug wires - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006 Thread Starter
 
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Another F*n problem,, Headers/Plug wires

Okay, here goes another freaking problem,

so i have just put in this new 347 last month and have been trying to get everything lined out on it have about 300-400 miles on it now and everythign runs pretty good, had problems with the PCV and crankcase pressure-solved, old crappy heat shrinked fuel lines came apart on me-fixed, and i have a problem with burning boots off of plug wires,

i noticed that i had a boot burning problem just on #6 cylinder, this is because the way the header tube is bent from the head to the collector, i have hooker super comp unequal shorties 1 5/8" to 3" collectors, and running RHS 200s, hell when you put in the plug you cant even get a straight extension on it to tighten it up you have to use a wobble extension, im not for sure if this is just a header issue like they didnt manufacture it right but i have even swapped heads on the drivers side due ot imperfection in casting and it was the same way, so anyway i had put on the boot protectors on them and everythign was great, until i decided to pull the plugs on saturday, looked at that boot protector and wouldnt ya know burnt through the protector and ate the boot on my new FRPP 9mm wires,

so i go get some header wrap yesterday and wrap that #6 header tube, put on an old MSD plug wire start the car, header wrap gets usual "burn in" well i watched the new boot burn, and then i shut the car down and teh #7 FRPP boot burst like it had too much heat going to it too,,

im not for sure if this is a problem with the header not being manufactured right or something, anyone else know anything about this?

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006
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Could be a bad design problem, you either need another set of headers or try different type wires, Accel and others sell wires with short 90 boots. That an a quality boot protector.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006
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Another wire company that is great and has short boots is Taylor, you can buy them pre made to stock length or buy them and have to cut and crimp the ends on. The crimpers are a bit expensive but im pretty sure your local parts store has them to rent/borrow.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006 Thread Starter
 
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got a set of taylors at lunch, goign to put my boot protectors on em all and try it again, definitely running lean though i think
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006
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I had this problem when I had equal lengths. You can flip the wire around so that the small distributor boot is on the sparkplug end. Or you can swap a dizzy-end boot onto the plug-end of the wire. You can also try running Bosch Super plugs. They're shorter than the Motorcrafts, but still copper. Don't use platinums, unless maybe you have a really hot ignition. Also, air gets trapped inside the boot when you push it onto the plug. Use a sharp pick to pull the boot away from the plug, allowing the air to escape.
When I got my car it was running lean, and the result was headers which got hotter than normal. Once I rectified the problem, the headers cooled off enough to where it wasn't burning the boots in such a short time. Mine was lean because the O2 sensor harness ground wasn't tightened down causing it to default to a stratagy which was too lean.
With the equal lengths, the primary tube was in contact with the #3 boot until I tried the shorter plug and smaller boot. It would still burn that setup, but once I got it running stoich, I was able to run Motorcraft plugs and a normal boot with an insulator, and it took a long time to burn through the boot.

'88 GT convertible, 5 speed, 3:08 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion. Mac shorty headers and H-pipe, Magnaflow catback.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-19-2006 Thread Starter
 
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going to get new O2 sensors and ignition module for dizzy after work and try all new stuff out, O2 sensors have like 240,000 miles on em
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-20-2006
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i have unequal headers but yeah heat shield shoild do it i dont have em but should gonna sell the jeep for 347 money!!! :-)~~~ lol or aluminum heads and then maybe the 347 damn camaros round here need **s whoopin' heheheh! :smilie
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-20-2006 Thread Starter
 
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yeah going to whoop up on those f*n camaros,, and update i put on new O2 sensors adn new ign module and taylor wires, started the car and after 5mins i turned the lights off the drivers side header was glowing red can we say LEAN!!! now gotta figure out what the hell to do about that,, any suggestions???
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-20-2006
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Lean

If only the one side is red hot, that's where you start diagnosing. Vacuum leak?? Is the computer kicking out any codes? If it's that hot and lean, the "Check Engine" light should be lit!! Good luck Guy!! Desert Dale.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-20-2006 Thread Starter
 
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Dale, yes the CEL is on, it only pulls the EGR and the Charcoal canister b/c i got rid of it too, thats it,
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You need the charcoal canister, and the Canister Purge Solenoid. It'll actually run lean without them.
What injectors and MAF are you running?

'88 GT convertible, 5 speed, 3:08 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion. Mac shorty headers and H-pipe, Magnaflow catback.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-21-2006 Thread Starter
 
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got a lot of friends that do not have the canister hooked up anymore and hace vacuum lines plugged off and they dont have this issue, i guess its wortha shot though, ill hook it back up and try it on monday night
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I think it's supposed to throw lean codes without the charcoal canister. But I do think you have another problem as well.

'88 GT convertible, 5 speed, 3:08 gears, A9L Mass Air conversion. Mac shorty headers and H-pipe, Magnaflow catback.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 10-22-2006 Thread Starter
 
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yeah ill find my cc parts and put em back on then check codes again and see if it runs lean, gotta be int he fuel somewhere but pass side is fine, anyone know what ohms/votls the injs are supposed to read at idle/key on position, thanks
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