Taking it to a shop?
Loosen the 13mm nut on the exhaust clamp, grab the muffler, and bump it in the direction you want to go. When you're done tapping it back and forth so that the tips are centered, tighten it back down. Easy as pie. No need for ramps, even
To install the driver side muffler without a struggle, simply unbolt the three 15mm bolts that hold the black front muffler-hanger bracket onto the bottom of the car. Took thirty seconds to pull with a cordless impact, but even a simple ratcheting wrench would have done the job. Then slip the muffler into the rear hangers, pop the front one onto the muffler, raise it and replace the 15mm bolts with just a few turns, so you have a lot of wiggle room. Line the front of the muffler up with the midpipe, torque down the 15mms, and reinstall the clamp.
I removed the old muffler with the clamps still installed and then sliced them off with a cutoff wheel. And deburred it on a bench grinder, because I do this stuff for a living and tired of sliced fingers from being in a rush a long time ago.
We were going to just remove the hangers but we didn't have the right tools to be able tighten the bolt as the ataks muffler casing blocked the bolt. Being 22 my tool collection is as limited as my experience with this stuff, but both expand with every mod I do. But I will definitely try the adjustment you recommend. Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
2011 Race Red GT/CS: current
MGW race spec shifter, Borla ATAK axle backs w/ resonator deletes, Boss Intake Manifold w/ Steeda CAI, stainless power longtube headers, driveshaft shop carbon fiber drive shaft, ACT twin disc clutch.
2014 Race Red V6: sold
Airaid Cold Air Intake, pype bomb axle backs, bama 91p tune, ford racing 3.73 gears, Barton short throw shifter, Mac ceramic shorty headers.