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Joe Heck Racing Stainless Braided Clutch Line

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#1 · (Edited)
Joe Heck Racing Clutch Line Install

Fashion accessory Material property Metal

JHR HIGH VOLUME CLUTCH LINE AND FITTING KIT - JOE HECK RACING INC

This thread is to introduce the upgraded stainless steel braided clutch line for the 2011+ Ford Mustang
with the 6-Speed MT82 manual transmission. Included are a list of necessary tools and precautions,
installation instructions, and personal impressions of the function of the new component.

This thread is not intended to diagnose any malfunction you the reader may be experiencing. The install was
performed on a daily driven, 2011 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 with approximately 5,700 miles. The vehicle up to
and since the install was not experiencing any problems with the operation of the clutch, or transmisison.

Precautions:
The vehicle's clutch is operated by hydraulics and shares fluid with the brake system. If you are unsure
of your technical abilities seek professional assistance to help prevent possibly dangerous mistakes. Brake
fluid can be dangerous to your health, enviornment, and your vehicle's paint. Ensure you have rags to absorb
spilled fluid and clean painted areas with mild soap and water. Safety glasses are required to protect your
eyes from possible injury.

Tools:




Hand Finger Thumb

No special tools are required for this installation.
-Flashlight or shoplight
-10mm socket and ratchet, or wrench
-Metal pick, preferably 45 degree offset
-Long angled needle nose pliers or hose pliers(optional)

Install:
Begin by raising the front of the vehicle either by using ramps or jackstands. Secure the vehicle by using the
parking brake and chock the rear wheels. Let vehicle cool as part of the working area will be next to the
catalytic converter which gets very hot.

Step One:
Auto part Vehicle Engine Car Automotive engine part

Remove the sound tube from the firewall next to the brake booster. Remove the 10mm bolt and pull the end of the
sound tube out if it's grommet.

Step Two:
Auto part Tire Wheel Metal Fuel line


Auto part Tire Automotive tire Wheel

Identify the clutch line at the firewall as the lower of the two lines. Using the metal pick loosen and remove
the small metal retaining clip (Be very careful not to drop this clip as it is easy to lose). Place a rag under
the line and pull it out of the fitting. Approximately 5 tbs of brake fluid will run out of the fitting.

Step Three:
Auto part


Auto part Engine Tire Automotive tire Fuel line


Auto part Engine

Underneath the vehicle identify the end of the clutch line going into a black 90 degree plastic elbow fitting at
the upper left side of the transmission bellhousing. Use the pick to again loosen the metal retaining clip, however
leave it inside the fitting to make the installation of the new line easier. The clip is designed to stay in the
fitting while allowing the line to be removed.
CAUTION: When removing the line do not place your head directly underneath as brake fluid will drain out of the
line and can get into your eyes.

Step Four:
Wire Cable Technology Electronic device

Remove the stock clutch line from the vehicle. This can be done from the top or bottom.

Step Five:
Fuel line Auto part Engine

From the engine compartment insert the new steel braided line into the fitting at the firewall and snake the end
down the firewall to the transmission. Reinsert the small retaining clip at the firewall fitting. Use a wiretie/
ziptie to secure the new line to the wiring harness running at the back of the driver's side cylinder head. This will
keep the new line from contacting the exhaust system.

Step Six:
Product Auto part Automotive exterior Bumper Tire

Insert the end of the clutch line into the 90 degree fitting on the transmission. For those with the factory catalytic
converters this area is very tight and it may not be possible to fit your hand all the way up to the fitting.
For this you can use long angled needle nose pliers or hose pliers to bend the line down verticaly. Reinsert the metal
retaining clip to complete the installation.

Bleed The Clutch System:
After installation the clutch release system will need to be bleed. This is accomplished by simply pumping the pedal
100 times. Note, at first the pedal may go to the floor and you will need to pump the pedal by hand. When the clutch
is fully bleed check the brake fluid reservoir and correct as needed.

Ensure proper clutch operation:
Check the operation of the clutch by raising the rear wheels off the ground and run the shifter through all gears.
Secure the front wheels and start the engine. Fully depress the clutch and shift into first gear while watching
the rear wheels. If they move or if you feel resistance in the shifter, you may need to continue bleeding the clutch
system. If the rear wheels remain still slowly release the clutch and note the engagement point. If you feel comfortable
with the proper clutch disengagement perform a road test.

Enjoy your new Joe Heck Racing steel braided clutch line!

Before the installation of the new clutch line on my car I had no issues with the operation of
my clutch or transmission. Shifting was smooth and fast in all weather and temperature. After the
installation I could feel a slight improvement in the reaction of the clutch when slipping into gear
in traffic.

I will not speculate on issues some people are having and will not contribute to the spreading of
misinformation and ignorance that has plagued some threads on this forum. This thread is only a how-to
and report on the operation of this upgrade. I encourage members who decide to use this upgrade to
post your own impressions and share any possible improvements and/or detriments.

Questions for the design aspect of this product can be directed to Adam Louramore from JHR.
 
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13
#2 ·
Thank you for the install guide. Someone with a notchy transmission with occasional grinding (like mine) should try this!
I remain optimistic.

Thank you again for this! (Seems easy enough!)
 
#3 ·
Thank you for the install guide. Someone with a notchy transmission with occasional grinding (like mine) should try this!
I remain optimistic.

Thank you again for this! (Seems easy enough!)
+1. Once somebody that has issues installs this and reports that this kit did help; I will then order this product.

Good job on the write up!
 
#4 ·
If someone who has slight issues in shifting, like occasionally hard getting into 1st or 2nd, does not post up something within the next two weeks, I will buy this line and post up. I may get the line any how. I occasinally have some difficulty getting into 1st. That's my only issue.
 
G
#5 ·
If you would like a diagnostic test for your car, when you first get in the car row the gears before starting the engine. Then fire it up and pump the clutch pedal 20 times. On the last time hold it to the floor and try moving into 1st immediately.

If it slides in with no problem, it sounds like a hydraulic issue with your clutch release system. If it is still difficult to move into 1st, there may be other issues that would need an actual inspection to find.
 
G
#7 ·
Now that I am reading the thread on my work computer I can see all of the formatting errors and typos and it's killing me!!

Is there any way to edit a thread that has been up for more than 30 minutes?
 
#8 ·
Great write-up. I'll be following this one for sure.
 
G
#10 · (Edited)
Great write-up. I'll be following this one for sure.
Thank you very much.

Please explain the basis of this test. It would seem to me that if you have hydraulic issues, specifically not releasing fully/properly, it doesnt matter how many times you pump the clutch, if the clutch is still slightly dragging then your synchros are having to do a lot more work and you will get a notchy/grindy shift.
The idea behind the replacement clutch line is to reduce restrictions in the flow of fluid to the slave cylinder. If your car is suffering from a lack of fluid movement pressing down on the pressure plate, then pumping the pedal will allow more fluid to be drawn from the reservoir to make up for the additional travel.

If the system were perfect, pumping the pedal will cause the same amount of fluid to move between the master and slave cylinders. My test can possible identify an imperfection in the system for diagnostic purposes.

I am a technician and not an engineer. My goal is to gain as much information from my own testing as well as from other members and share it. I am hoping to get a better idea of what is going on in people's cars that are having issues since my own car is not.
 
#11 ·
Gotta get me one o' them thar rectal probe pincher thingees (uhm, what did you call it - hose pliers?). Well, just have to make a trip to Harbor Freight to buy more "stuff"...

Nice writeup - guess you've (like me) gotten brake fluid in your eyes before too! Shame on you though as a prof. tech - gotta keep those tools CLEAN:winks...
 
#14 ·
This question has been rattling around in my head.

Has the replacement of this line affected the braking system?

I ask this because the brakes and clutch are using the same fluid and the flow rates wil have changed between the 2 systems.

Because Adam 's test mule (a bad name for a Mustang, good term for Camaros and Challengers :winks) has been track tested, I would assume there is not a braking issue.

Just curious.
 
G
#15 ·
They both share a fluid reservoir however everything that is pressurized is separate. The fluid that is in the lines for the brakes and clutch cylinders is completely separate and one does not affect the other.

Think of the excavators on the construction site that have multiple hydraulic rams running at the same time in different directions. They also draw fluid from a common reservoir but are free to act independently.
 
#16 ·
Thanks Grimace427.

Because of these forums, I am learning too much about my Mustang. You can teach an old dog new tricks.

My issues are with cold weather 1st and 2nd gear engagement. No whinning or clashing, yet.

This summer weather is not good for my fuel economy. I am having way too much fun getting into the throttle.

If I have the same or more issues this coming winter, I may take a little trip/vacation down to Boca Raton. Stop at JHR to evaluate issues with this car and have them install the appropriate products to make this V6 enjoyable.
 
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#20 · (Edited)
You are welcome, glastroncvx16.

It's gonna be tough trying to diagnose cold shifting issues right now with all the 90 degree days we are getting here. I can tell you there are some fluids out on the market that others have used with great results. Some I have heard are Redline MTL, Royal Purple Synchromax, and BG Synchromax II(this is what I am using). I am not an expert on fluids so you will need to do some research on this subject.

Good luck and enjoy the summer!

Think ford will void our warranty for this?? I am excited and want to pull the trigger and have this put on my new tranny... but I don't want o eff up my warr.....???!!
If your car is being repaired at the dealership right now I think you should talk to the service adviser and tech about this new part and see what they think.

Where they may find an issue with this product is not the part itself but rather the installation by the vehicle's owner. I bet if they installed it during the repair process you should not have any problems with your warranty.
 
#19 ·
Think ford will void our warranty for this?? I am excited and want to pull the trigger and have this put on my new tranny... but I don't want o eff up my warr.....???!!
 
This post has been deleted
#25 ·
Another thing OEM's do is put the clutch master cylinder feed line halfway up on the reservoir or at least above the brake master port. This will allow the fluid to only drop so much from a clutch leak before air is introduced and shifting is not possible. While this occurs, the brake master will still have adequate fluid to operate. There is usually a brake fluid level sensor that will also trip long before this occurs too. As for flow changes, fluid displacement is controlled by the piston size. The system will not use anymore fluid than usual, it will just be done at a different speed if an orifice is introduced or removed.
 
#27 ·
I was having the following problems with my transmission:

Clutch would not fully disengage
Hard shifting especially reverse, third, and fifth
Harsh grinding when shifting
Upon removal of the clutch we found the pressure plate fingers were bent, I did not have the loose pressure plate bolt issue

I took a systematic approach in fixing this and it included replacing the factory clutch line with an aftermarket SS line (for reference this looks exactly like what I have but it's cheaper - always a plus)

-RXT clutch
-SS Line
-SuperBlue Brake Fluid (higher boiling point, some people have theorized that the factory fluid may be boiling after continued use)
-RAM clutch adjuster (I now have the ability to adjust my clutch pedal release point)
-RP Sychromax fluid change
-stock shifter and mount

My car shifts like stock, tranny is quiet, and I can speed shift it at 7500 rpms with NO problems. I've put 2500 miles on this setup with no problems. I've replaced the tranny fluid again to check for metal shavings - happy to report there were none. I realize that this doesn't help point to a single point of failure but I have to say the clutch line upgrade is a worthwhile mod!
 
#28 ·
Installed the JHR line today and thought I would give
my feeling on this.
First off my clutch has never felt consistant in feel,
seemed like the hotter it is outside worse it felt.
Now it feels just better, more consistant.(99* today at test drive)
I have always had 2" clutch reserve and about 1/2" freeplay,
that has not changed.
Did it take the hard and notchy feel in the trans away NO.
I have never had grinding, guess I could if wanted to make
it grind by forceing it but I don't, I just wait on it to go in gear.
Speed shifts and power shifts never a problem.
I do have a Barton shifter and support and have
Royal purple 75-90 in the trans.
Just going to beat the piss out of it and when and if it fails,
thenI will get it looked at.
Got 12000 miles now and nothing has changed from new.
As I said the line helped the feel of the clutch, to me it was
worth the effort. It is better than what came on it.
Thanks to Adam and JHR you went the extra mile to get
this to me today, Thank You.
Grimace427 Thanks for your instuctions, knew what to expect.

Jim
 
#29 ·
Dedicated fluid reservoir for clutch system

I have been reading through this thread and just to throw my opinion in to the mix I think even if you did loose the clutch line I agree that the only way you would empty the brake master at all would be by pumping the clutch. To top it off the pickup line for the clutch system is about an inch from the bottom of the reservoir so you wouldn't get to the point of loosing your brakes. Also as far as pumping the clutch, when it doesn't have any pressure in the line the clutch will actually stay on the floor because of a pedal pressure assist spring that is attached to the top of the pedal assembly. So you would literally have to pull the pedal up to pump it.

We are considering making a dedicated clutch fluid reservoir, would any of you be interested? Also an adjustable pedal stop and pressure regulating system that may lead to an integrated line lock and clutch release for the drag strip.

We will need 1 or 2 test subjects. Anyone interested?
It will take us a few weeks but I am interested in giving it a shot.
 
#31 ·
I'm totally getting this line setup. I just put an exedy mach 600 and ram flywheel in the car last weekend and want to make sure I get as much of the hydraulic pressure to the tob as possible. The weak factory plastic just doesn't seem like it's going to cut the mustard.

I assume this comes with all the fittings to go into the stock system correct?
 
G
#32 ·
I'm totally getting this line setup. I just put an exedy mach 600 and ram flywheel in the car last weekend and want to make sure I get as much of the hydraulic pressure to the tob as possible. The weak factory plastic just doesn't seem like it's going to cut the mustard.

I assume this comes with all the fittings to go into the stock system correct?

It is plug and play.
 
#33 ·
Thanks for the write up Grimace. I finally came across this post again and had some time to read the install notes. So unlike bleeding brakes, there isn't a nipple that you actually need to bleed the fluid from after installing the new line? Does pumping the clutch just recirculate the fluid so that the air is fed back into the reservoir?
 
G
#34 ·
All that is required to bleed the clutch is to pump the pedal. At first the pedal will go to the floor and you will need to pump it by hand but after about a minute you will start to feel pressure. Keep pumping well after you feel the stock pressure in the pedal just to be sure it is ready to go, unless you jack up the rear axle. Then you can start the car and put it in gear with the clutch in. If the wheels don't move you are good to go.

I only lost about a 1/8 in of fluid in the reservoir so I really didn't need to add any.
 
#35 ·
I had the JHR clutch line installed by a mechanic as it wasn't worth the $70 to do it myself and risk spilling fluid or getting it in my eyes. Have 5000 miles on car and was having cold shifting issues 1-2 regardless of temp and occasional rough shifting when tranny was warm.
I did notice a lighter pedal effort and slightly smoother shifting when cold after the install. Definitely better shifting after warm.
IMHO this mod is worth the money and is preventative maintenance in the long run:bigthumbsup
 
#36 ·
I think the motor mounts will be the key to making that 2 to 3rd beyond 7k rpm easier.... that plus a good Shifter bracket....

Cuz my car moves 3rd to the right probably a full inch when I shift that high.... and after the supercharger is installed... geez..
 
#37 ·
I missed third tonight :/

I should add that I want to add this line.. but it's just one more thing on the list that they can point to.... -_-
 
#38 ·
Installed the stainless braided line on saturday morning. Took me 30 minutes.

My symptoms:
-Hard to get into 1st gear very intermittently.
-Second gear would 1/10 times engage just strange at slow shifts.
-2nd gear in the middle of a hard turn would sometimes clash.
-Otherwise, a good operating transmission.

So, I have had the line installed for 3 days worth of driving, today being stop and go/city driving. I have to say, this is a worth while upgrade. One, you get a line that you'll NEVER have to worry about expanding under pressure, cracking, or melting. Two, 1st gear, for me at least, engages better and 2nd gear is also better. All other gears just feel smoother going into gear. I will not say that this is THE ticket, but something that will definately get you in the door and let you see the previews.

Bleeding the clutch without a vacuum pump and a proper fitting/cap (one could easily make one) is time consuming, but it is definitely do-able by just pumping a ton of times. It takes a bunch of pumps, even on an incline, to even start building pressure. Actually, after I got done bleeding, I went out to my car a couple hours later and the pedal went straight to the floor. Pumped it up another 200 times and it has been golden since.

Also, as mentioned before, removing the stock line is very easy, especially on a cold vehicle (I did mine HOT:kooky:). Very little fluid is lost in the stock line removal as well; I didn't need to add anything.

In short, do I think this purchase was worth my time and money? Hell yes.

Does it help with some of the engagement issues? Yes [for me at least].

Did this product alleviate the problem totally? No, but it's a manual transmission; they act weird sometimes, so I'm happy with where it's at.



Oh, justa tip, when you're all done, be mindfuly of your shifting. The engagement/disengagement point is a little different... engages/disengages a little further from the floor (larger line=more volume=less pedal movement to move the slave the same distance as stock would...margin change, but be mindful).
 
#39 ·
Ordered one today after the service manager stated if I had them install it, everything with warranty would be good still.

Now I just need to order a new shifter and bracket....
 
G
#41 ·
The JHR line is several inches longer than the stock line and can be routed completely away from the exhaust. In my instructions I stated to zip-tie the new line to the wiring harness on the back of the driver's side cylinder head. This gets the line about 10 inches away from the header and catalytic converter.

I tried pretty hard to get the heat shield off the stock line but could not without destroying it. I believe it's there because the stock line is plastic versus the steel braided/teflon line from JHR.
 
#43 ·
I cannot stress enough how different everything felt... my 3rd was been torqued to the right when shifting high.... so I did the.motor mounts + Shifter + Shifter mount + clutch line.... and even after installing the procharger.... The car is STILL shifting. tONS better than before the Joe heck stiff was in... night and day people.... night and day!!!
 
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