I converted our OEM single cylinder, power brakes to a dual cylinder master cyl, and had a terrible time bleeding the new master cyl.
I finally got it bled by clamping the master in a vise using one of the mounting tabs. BUT, I "rolled" the master cyl in the vice so the output ports were higher. With the master clamped with the rear towards me, I tipped or rolled it clockwise as far as I could without spilling brake fluid out the lower side. This put the output ports a little higher, and the air bubbles came to the high side - nearest the output ports. I had bled the master 3 times and after I rolled the master in the vise, I got more bubbles out.
Now I am not trying to insult your intelligence here, but I am assuming you have little hoses connected to the output ports, and they are putting the fluid back into the reservoir? And you are using a big push rod or big screw driver to push on the back of the master cyl. and pumping many times?
Hope this helps. Dave
I followed their Tech support instructions. SSBC instructions were to bench bleed using a bleeder kit, then tilt down the front of the MC 10 - 15 degrees, use a rubber mallet to tap the front to release the air that clings to the new metal of the MC, then pump some more to dispel any air that dislodged. I did in fact get a little more air. They then instructed to move the MC to the car leaving the MC bleeder kit installed, then remove one bleeder at a time and quickly install the steel line. They only recommend gravity bleeding the wheel cylinders. Since my gravity bleed is so poor, I am going to start looking for brake hose blockages. BTW, I have done this 8 times. This is why the MC is sitting in the vise. I have to try something else because I can't imagine trial 9 will result in another outcome. Removing the hoses and blowing out the steel brake lines would eliminate the possibility of debris in the system and then sealing the system with new rubber hoses. If that doesn't guarantee success the next bleeding then I don't know what will. Does this sound like a rational plan? What about the proportioning valve?
1966 Mustang 2+2, A code, AOD AT, PS, PDB, AC, Pony deluxe interior