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Grenaded Gen-1 Coyote - help with Replacement

6K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  rowekmr 
#1 ·
Hello all! First post here and it’s a doozy.. 2011 Mustang GT with Edelbrock E-Force SC started burning oil because of a failed ring lands in cylinder 7.

As a result I’m on the hunt for a replacement but wanted to know, does anyone know where I might find a Gen-1 fully forged (pistons too), not hyerluric and perhaps a safer 9.5:1 overall compression ratio for longevity?

Anything I should be aware of when considering a replacement? I’m thinking just go with a longblock to get the whole thing under warranty.

Thanks for your help and suggestions!
 
#2 ·
I'm assuming you installed a stage 2 SC. That combo with the hypereutectic pistons using factory powder coated rods is a gamble. I would go with a long block with forged rods and pistons if you plan on reinstalling the stage 2.

When installed my R2300 I sent the computer off for programming for the automatic transmission and for customizing the power curve because of the facts mentioned above. Our 11 and 12 model have the oil squirter which helps the piston cool but does not compare in robustness to the forged pistons and rods used today in the 5.0. For lack of a better description I limit the output of the R2300 configuration. I have not had any performance or mechanical problems.

Sadly, without upgrading the lower end it's a gamble to push over 600 HP in the Gen 1.

PS: I moved your thread to the S197 forum.
 
#4 ·
You can make anything work if the price is bearable. Engine swap. Engine rebuild.
What are you wanting to do? How much are you willing to invest?

I'm not sure what level of damage your engine sustained. You could probably extract a damaged sleeve and replace it (or all of them) and install forged pistons and H-Rods if you really want to beef it up for big power applications. That's providing your block is OK.

Finding an experienced machine shop to extract and install some high tensile strength liners is another chore. Price - - maybe $1500. High quality forged pistons and H-Rods go for about $1500 for a kit.

If rebuilding the lower end of your current engine is not possible then a salvage yard is another option. A crate engine is also another option.
 
#5 ·
There is an old saying in performance, " speed costs money, how fast do you want to go? " As previously noted you have lots of options, the only limitation is your budget. One relatively simple option if it's still available is the Ford Performance crate engine part # M-6006-M50A1. This is a Gen II engine designed to run with a Gen I PCM. It comes wit a 24 month factory warranty, but your supercharger will probably void it. Like other Gen II engines it has Boss 302 sinter forged rods [ powered metal AKA pressed sh*% ], but they're still better than your old Gen I rods and hyper pistons. It can be had for just under $7,000.00 if still available. If I were to go this way I would put in billet oil pump gears and a billet crank gear while it was still on the engine stand especially since it will be supercharged. Good luck.
 
#6 ·
I’ve seen that motor and noticed they also have the ‘hyperuleric’ or whatever they're called (non-forged) pistons. At 11:1 I’m still in what I believe is the red zone in terms of cylinder pressure and detonation-risk.. too bad they don’t have a lower compression, forged piston version of that..
 
#7 ·
Your problem may have been as simple as not having enough ring gap for your application. Of course I'm assuming you just yanked the intake manifold, and installed the supercharger without tearing into the engine itself. Not enough ring gap with the increased blowby, and it pinches, and destroys the ring lands.
 
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#8 ·
Hello all! First post here and it’s a doozy.. 2011 Mustang GT with Edelbrock E-Force SC started burning oil because of a failed ring lands in cylinder 7.

As a result I’m on the hunt for a replacement but wanted to know, does anyone know where I might find a Gen-1 fully forged (pistons too), not hyerluric and perhaps a safer 9.5:1 overall compression ratio for longevity?

Anything I should be aware of when considering a replacement? I’m thinking just go with a longblock to get the whole thing under warranty.

Thanks for your help and suggestions!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AMS-Racing...204788?hash=item2cf4a7e4b4:g:rzQAAOSwsFpWRekk
 
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#9 ·
What did the OP end up going with?
 
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