10 inch subwoofers not sharp - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008 Thread Starter
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10 inch subwoofers not sharp

I have two 10 inch subs in my 99 GT, among other things, but the subs just don't have the punch they should. They make plenty of bass, but its real low and 'droning' not crisp with a good punch. I listen to mostly rock music and similar stuff, but I know nothing about tuning and amp ie gain filters, etc. Any suggestions? Its kind of an odd setup, a 10" JBL in a box and a 10' bazooka tube. What kind of wattage would I need to power these properly, what can they handle? Any help really appreciated.


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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008
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I used to be sell car audio for a while 8 years ago and can give you some advise. But first without knowing the models of the 10" JBL and the Bazooka it'll be hard to say. Is the Bazooka tube powered with it's own amp or is it a passive one amped seperately?

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-01-2008 Thread Starter
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The sub is actually a JL audio 10, doesn't say anything else on the outside, would have to pull it out to check. The bazooka is passive, both are being powered by a Lanzar Viberant 1400watt(claimed) 4 channel bridgeable amp. The amp came with the car, tho I think its probably a ****** brand. I have two crossovers in the system as well, there are two mids and two tweeters in the kick panels up front as well. The overall sound is awesome, just want more kick out of the subs, a nice crisp sharp response.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008
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That 'claimed' 1400 watts is going to be your 'peak' wattage. Divide that by 4 channels and you get 350w peak per channel. Your RMS wattage should be something like 1/3 of that per channel.

Figure that you're putting out 250-300w RMS with 2 channels bridged together.

Even so, we cant really tell you anything unless we know what model of sub that JL 10" is...

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008 Thread Starter
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haven't pulled it out to be sure, but I'm guessing low end, the setup was done very well except the subs , but on the cheap. How do I tune the amp for starts, I can tune a race motor, but not a stereo, honest retard Q, but I don't even know what gain or filter does, and I have 2 crossovers and have an idea of what they do, but I'm acoustically dumb. Please, if you will, give instructions for a moron, that way I can't f#$K up.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-02-2008
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There really is no 'tuning for dummies.'

Like tuning anything else its all in the ears. (Spoken like a true guitar player)

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-03-2008
 
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Hey there Racin 336 i am going to do my best to give you a couple solutions. First but expensive is to get a new amp the amp you are using is lower end with some bad filters. Your sube are both good brands not sure what sub you have specificaly but solid brands. Alpine makes a solid mono block amp pushing 400 clean watts WITH A GREAT FILTER. It runs about $199 well worth the money. That would be solution 1 buy the alpine amp and remove your crossovers.

Two would be to remove your crossovers now and runyour signal through your amp only to see if that helps agian your amp is in a whole different playing field than your subs so i strongly recomend getting a new amp.

Ok here it goes for tuning an amp for subs if you have a filter switch you want it to be on LP (Low pass filter) this alows low frequencies only to be able to pass through. Gain is how much you want the amp to boost the signal going to the subs. The best process is turn your gain to the minnimum wich should be 4volts then turn on your stereo not to loud just loud enough to hear the bass. At this point slowly raise the gain untill it distorts the lower it one notch. Also make sure your bass is set at zero on your head unit and the the loud or mx option is turned off. Well good luck tuning is difficult to learn just be patient.



REMEMBER POWER DOESN'T BLOW SPEAKERS DISTORTION DOES!
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008
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Another place to look for that kick you are wanting is in your mids in the kick panels. Are they properly sealed? Is the hi pass crossover set to high. Is the one for the subs set to low? To be honest, I would sell one or both of your subs and get a good matching pair. then set the crossovers accordingly. For 10s I would play them around 80hz and down depending on how strong your mids are. Thats where the true "kick" comes from. If you were to listen to an awesome sounding system and ask them to cut out the mids and highs, all you would hear is the low booming sound as if you were under water. The kick comes rom properly tuned mids.... play with it a little.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008 Thread Starter
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Yeah, the mids are sealed and they're good speakers (kickers) its the response from the subs that doesn't sound right,the crossovers are set the way you described, and the sound is really great overall, just not getting the firm crispness that I should from the 10's, suspect its cause my amp is a POS. Let me know if you think of anything else, thanks much

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hey there racin 366 i didn't know the crossovers were for the mids i would leave those alone. The alpine amp that i would get the MRP-M450. I run that at 4 ohms with 2 JBL 12"S and it hits hard and clean. good luck talk with you later
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Try this and let me know what happens. Disconnect one of the subs and see if that changes the sound at all. I'm guessing that the box that the JL is in a sealed enclosure? No ports? Well your Bazooka tube is technically a ported enclosure. Sometimes, not all the time, but sometimes, two different types of enclosures playing in the same cabin space tend to fight each other and cancel out certain frequencies. This could be the case. Try bridging the channels that are running the subs to one sub and see how it sounds. Start with the JL. Connect the positive from the left channel on the amp to the positive on the JL. Then the Negative from the right channel to the negative on the JL. This should bridge it down to one channel. Now make sure that your sub placed properly in the trunk. Try pushing the box up against the back seat as far as it will go and face the speaker to the REAR of the car. Crank'er up and let me know how it sounds. Might want to turn your gain down on the amp a little since you'll be pouring more power to one sub. Hope this helps. Oh yeah... when you do all of this, get the tube out of there all together. Try this with both subs and see which one you like better. Good luck!
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-04-2008 Thread Starter
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Tried the suggestion, sounds better with both in there. The clarity doesn't change with only one sub (either one), but the overall output is reduced. Will the MRP-M450 power the 2 subs and the front speakers through the crossovers?

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You're pushing your speakers and subs with the same amp?

You probably dont want to be doing that, if I were you i'd let the head unit handle the speakers and focus the amp on the subs. Either that or get a separate amp for your subs and keep the one you have for your speakers.

Ideally you want 2 separate amps: one for your speakers and one for your subs.

Oh and I highly recommend the Alpine MRP-M500. Pushes 300w @ 4 ohms and 500w @ 2 ohms. I run mine at 2 ohms to a swr-1242d alpine type-r 12" sub and it hits hard and clean.

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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old 06-05-2008 Thread Starter
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Can my subs handle an MRP-M1000 or what is the max they can handle without risking destroying them? a friend is offering me a real good deal, thanks for all the help guys, this forum rocks.

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i ran 2 jl w1v12 with a 1200 watt ampit was great jl'scan handle alot more than they say. stangaddict is right about tuning it,lanzar is actually a great brand more of a competion level brand then just daily use

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