Alpine VS Audiopipe - Ford Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010 Thread Starter
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Alpine VS Audiopipe

Should I go
Audiopipe TXX-AP10 10" Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

specs at: Mobile electronics, Marine audio, Car security

or Alpine
SWR-1242D12" Subwoofer (4Ω + 4Ω)

specs at: Alpine Electronics of America, Inc.

i want the most base i could possibly get. i have the alpines now, but i could trade them for the audiopipe comp 10s.

any input? keep or trade?


Current Rides:
'94 Ford F-150
Current: Ext. cab, 300 i6 auto 2wd. JVC head unit, 12" Solo Baric L7 matched to 1000.1 Kicker Amp.
Future: 4/5 DJM drop. Custom flatbed set-up made to haul bikes.

'95 Ford Mustang
Current: 3.8L v6 manual.
Future: Get it running.

'00 Honda CBR929RR (Wheelie Machine)
Current: Full SI stunt set up. -1/+7 520 x-ring chain conversion. Protaper dirt bike bars. LSL Upper triple. Acerbis Cyclops headlight w/ DDM Tuning 6000k HID kit.
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010
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i had the alpine type r's with a nice hifonics brutus amp and it was loud i have 2 of them and i didn't even have the amp set all the way and heard me from 2 blocks sound very nice and deep base


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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2010 Thread Starter
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well see, im into the SPL type of bass. i actually enter into competitions with the systems i build. i had 2 12s in a jeep and placed third. a system i built for a friend placed 1st, and a few other systems iv built placed between 2nd and 5th.

im a kicker guy. iv only had kickers. these are the first non kicker subs iv had, and iv only heard good things about audio pipes. i dont go by max wattage, i go by RMS. the audiopipes have a higher RMS but are 10s tho.


the audiopipes have more cone travel then the alpines.

so im trying to get opinions on the system.

Current Rides:
'94 Ford F-150
Current: Ext. cab, 300 i6 auto 2wd. JVC head unit, 12" Solo Baric L7 matched to 1000.1 Kicker Amp.
Future: 4/5 DJM drop. Custom flatbed set-up made to haul bikes.

'95 Ford Mustang
Current: 3.8L v6 manual.
Future: Get it running.

'00 Honda CBR929RR (Wheelie Machine)
Current: Full SI stunt set up. -1/+7 520 x-ring chain conversion. Protaper dirt bike bars. LSL Upper triple. Acerbis Cyclops headlight w/ DDM Tuning 6000k HID kit.
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-03-2010
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for starters, 12's typically have a deeper bass, and 10s are a little tighter.

next- frequency response, the alpine's are lower, which is what you want for a rumbling bass that you will feel to your bones, not sure why the audiopipe goes up to 1200, unless theyre baiting non electro junkies with as high a number as possible.

the audipipe does have a slightly better sensitivity rating, but reading the specs my money is on it generating heat out the wazoo and crapping out on you.

in all honesty, I've never heard of audiopipe, but the R12's are rated very positively and there are a total of 0 comments i can find about the audiopipes, but my personal take on the specific model you're looking at is that it is walmart/flea market quality.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-03-2010
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oh and on a side note, I dont know much about RF's old school amps that your sig says, can you post the model # so i can find specs?

Edit: think i found what youre running, and please god tell me its not the 301m I'm reading about, if so, u should be worried about a new amp, not what subs you have, having a total RMS wattage rating of 1000 or 1200 trying to draw off an amp rated at 300w RMS... well the only metaphor i can make for this would be having a mustang with a Hyndai Accent engine under the hood...
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old 02-22-2012
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its a bit of a toss up between the alpines and audio pipe txx ap 10. I personally have one of those audio pipe subs and it surprised me on how it performed the first time i saw it. These are not your typical 10's that u find at walmart or most car audio stores selling "budget" equipment. the excursion of the cone is great, it is durable, and can actually handle a large rms input. this sub has a max rating *rolls eyes* of 1200 watts and a RMS rating of 600 watts deffinately worth the money and you can buy it at multiple online stores at an average price of bout $200-$250 new
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old 03-14-2012
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The 12 will produce a lower frequency sound since its surface area is larger and can move more air. I would focus on the box now and pick the sub based on that. Ported would be your best bet for the high SPL so design one for your trunk for each sub and see what is going to turn out best. Let the whole system help you decide.

BTW I have a type R and love it, it can handle the power of a big amp, just don't throw a m1000 on 1 type r and play it loud for 4 straight hours or it will give out in a few months. 2 fixed that issue.
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