Added a sub/amp to the Shaker 500 (mounting methods) - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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Originally Posted by fbaltan View Post
It was a great thread to read. TY. I was planing on adding a Rockford Fosgate amp for the speaker's and a capacitor. When I talk to people at best buy they said they will have to rewire the car and I wont be able to use the the tweeter's any more. I have no clue on how to do this so I was planing on let them do it. If I can do this by myself I would save alot of many any details? And should I do it?
Why would you be installing a capacitor in the first place :?::?:

If your amp isn't enough to power your SPEAKERS then get a stronger amp. A capacitor should only be used in situations where you have a high-powered subwoofer(s) that on their lowest 'thumps' require that extra surge of energy that your battery/alternator cannot provide.

Check out Crutchfield and do some research at car audio websites to learn about the difficulties of installing your own amp. Its not necessarily easy, but it isn't difficult either, the right word like said earlier is 'time consuming'.

I'm still deciding if I want to install my aftermarket audio system or have it 'professionally' done.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbaltan View Post
It was a great thread to read. TY. I was planing on adding a Rockford Fosgate amp for the speaker's and a capacitor. When I talk to people at best buy they said they will have to rewire the car and I wont be able to use the the tweeter's any more. I have no clue on how to do this so I was planing on let them do it. If I can do this by myself I would save alot of many any details? And should I do it?

This is the next step up when upgrading audio - def. more time and money. Also, I assume you're not talking about amping the terrible speakers that are already in the car - that'd be a mistake.

The reason you have to re-wire the car is because you run signal wires from the head unit back into the trunk and into the 4-channel amplifier powering your speakers - then you run speaker wires from this amp to the speakers to power them. You'll also need to run a power cable from the battery to the amp(s) at the back, and installing a capacitor makes this a tad easier. What the previous poster said about a capacitor is mostly true, if your sub hits really hard your headlights might dim at night / etc if your battery can't take an instantaneous jump in current. A cap will run you about 50-70 bucks for a great one and takes an extra 20 minutes on the install - definitely worth it. In my 02 v6, I have a 400 watt rms 4 channel amp for my speakers and a 400 watt rms monoblock amp powering my sub, both connected to a 1-Farad capacitor and I've had my car battery for over 6 years and it still pushes a perfect 12V (Optima Red-Top). You can do this in a weekend if you're good with wires, reading instructions, and have a good friend around for some of the work - you'll be removing most of the paneling in the car, especially if you want component tweeters, etc.

I've been researching doing the same thing, here's a link you might find uber-helpful. I was even planning on getting the same speakers as this guy whenever I get a new GT (whenever my v6 finally dies, not looking very likely).
Mustang Audio Install

A good rule of thumb on the Cap is 1 Farad per 1000 watts RMS, from what I've heard. Best of luck on the install, the weekend was definitely worth 6 years and counting of audio bliss on my 1-hour commute.

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If you have more money than time, have a shop do it, but it'll run you 200 bucks or more from what I've seen at Fry's / Best Buy / etc. Only downside is they normally warranty their work for a short period, so if numbnuts puts on a loose butt connector you're gonna lose your shirt paying someone else to find it, or lose your weekend doing it yourself. Mustangs tend to attract DIY-ers so if you're particularly handy I'd at least give it a shot - better to pay yourself the 25 bucks an hour I say.
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Wow. Old thread revived. This was when I was shopping for car audio. I've long since then bought, installed, replaced, and upgraded my audio (all on my own) since then.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyser_Soze View Post
If you have more money than time, have a shop do it, but it'll run you 200 bucks or more from what I've seen at Fry's / Best Buy / etc. Only downside is they normally warranty their work for a short period, so if numbnuts puts on a loose butt connector you're gonna lose your shirt paying someone else to find it, or lose your weekend doing it yourself. Mustangs tend to attract DIY-ers so if you're particularly handy I'd at least give it a shot - better to pay yourself the 25 bucks an hour I say.
great post,

a few months to late. keep going!

knowledge is power.

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nice job! I would also like upgrade my audio system.
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so the reQ has a set of input wires for the signal. there's a dozen wires on there for all speakers, including a set for factory subs. which ones are best to use if you have the reQ in the trunk and want to draw signal from the rear deck speakers? simply cut the wires going to the rear speakers, twist the ends and clamp them in a butt splice and then clamp that corresponding wire for that reQ into the other side of the splice?

i'm doing my best to spell everything out before i start cutting wires

assumptions:
power wire for the reQ comes from the battery, can be lumped in with the wire where it connects to the amp
ground wire is lumped in with the amp ground
no need for turn on as it senses from input
two sets (right and left) to pull signal from the rear deck speakers
RCA outputs from reQ then go to sub input on amp
for amp, remote turn on is from fuse box, run over to passenger side and travels length of the car with the power wire into the trunk

i hope this is it. sometimes it helpful to talk things out lol
please correct me if i'm wrong on anything here. is there a better way to do it?

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mittermiller View Post
simply cut the wires going to the rear speakers, twist the ends and clamp them in a butt splice and then clamp that corresponding wire for that reQ into the other side of the splice?

i'm doing my best to spell everything out before i start cutting wires
Not commenting on the electrical side...

This is a nice option for tapping into existing wiring. The continuity of the wire remains unbroken and the voltage / current is branched to a new location.

Ensure the splice is sealed from moisture ingress. This is important!


Right Splice Leaves Factory Wiring Unbroken.




A IDC crimp splice is another option. It just leaves two small slits in the insulation.


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post #24 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-20-2011 Thread Starter
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My responses are in [brackets] below


Quote:
Originally Posted by mittermiller View Post
so the reQ has a set of input wires for the signal. there's a dozen wires on there for all speakers, including a set for factory subs. which ones are best to use if you have the reQ in the trunk and want to draw signal from the rear deck speakers? simply cut the wires going to the rear speakers, twist the ends and clamp them in a butt splice and then clamp that corresponding wire for that reQ into the other side of the splice?
[ I cut the adapters I got from crutchfield and spliced in the reQ, but you can certainly cut the factory speaker wires and splice in with a connector]

i'm doing my best to spell everything out before i start cutting wires

assumptions:
power wire for the reQ comes from the battery, can be lumped in with the wire where it connects to the amp [correct]
ground wire is lumped in with the amp ground [correct, it MUST be grounded to the same location, see my original post]
no need for turn on as it senses from input [correct]
two sets (right and left) to pull signal from the rear deck speakers [correct]
RCA outputs from reQ then go to sub input on amp [correct]
for amp, remote turn on is from fuse box, run over to passenger side and travels length of the car with the power wire into the trunk [correct]

i hope this is it. sometimes it helpful to talk things out lol
please correct me if i'm wrong on anything here. is there a better way to do it?

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thank you sirs. much appreciated

ordering a reQ now. i'll let you guys know how it goes.

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Gotta thank the OP for such a great write-up! Especially the part about the add-a-circuit and the correct fuse to replace! You're a wonderful human being, and I'll fight anyone who says otherwise!

A regular transformer-based Line Output Converter won't work worth crap for a sub-woofer, for the simple reason that transformers suck big time at passing low frequencies.

The ReQ mentioned is one choice - I used an AudioControl LC2i; oddly enough, the cheapest price was at Crutchfield for an "open box" unit at $89, including shipping.

Data Point: That very tempting 13mm bolt holding the carpet up near the top about a foot in front of the taillight makes a terrible ground. Pull the trunk side carpet back with that bolt out, and you'll see some handy holes in a piece of sheet metal that you can run a bolt through and get a good ground. There's probably no need to ask how I know that makes a terrible ground.

I ran a single blue wire from the add-a-circuit to supply the power to the LC2i and the turn-on power to the amp. Seemed simpler that way.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by mittermiller View Post
<snip> simply cut the wires going to the rear speakers, twist the ends and clamp them in a butt splice and then clamp that corresponding wire for that reQ into the other side of the splice?
<snip>
I just soldered the speaker wires to the bare connections at the speaker; it was a lot less trouble than using those line tapper gadgets; they're handy and tempting, but if you want a reliable permanent connection, they're not the way to go.

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how much wire does the reQ connector give you? a foot or two?

the configuration of my sub box (2x12") and amp plus reQ will be very interesting based on the shape of the trunk. id want to put it against the back seats but it slopes toward the taillights.

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That is correct. The reQ does the job of the Scosche LOC, but does it MUCH better for this application.
I ran the reQ5 in my daily driver prior to installing the Pioneer Z120BT.
It does a remarkable job of restoring the bass frequencies and providing a good clean signal to the amp(s). I put mine in storage for future reference.
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I had bestbuy install my eclipse sub and amp that I had in a previous vehicle. I wish I would have seen this thread first as bestbuy used a $15 line level converter and tapped the rear speakers for signal and it sounds horrible. I saw another thread that suggested the PAC AOEM-FRD24to get the signal from the head unit so I ordered one and have to install it. I guess I should have gotten the reQ to replace the line converter, instead:?: Oh well, if the PAC AOEM-FRD24doesn't help, I'll have to order the reQ. Thanks for posting. I hope to have the subs sounding the way they used to, sometime soon.

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