2012 shaker 500- Where to tap for subwoofer amp input? - Page 2 - Ford Mustang Forum
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I temporarily used the rear speaker leads and a hi-low converter. When I get some time I plan to figure out a way to make the sub inputs work

If that doesn't work I'll use one of the sub outputs from the factory amp. I will be sure to post my final results.

Thanks again for the help everybody!

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Okay, guys, I was able to use low input coming from the factory HU to run my amps using RCA's. No converters or anything else needed! I'll post full details soon, but I need your help real quick...

My relays didn't come in so I'm unable to use the factory remote wire for now. I have an Add-A-Circuit but need to know which fuse to tap in to? Which one shuts off with the ignition?

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Can't help you out on that one, the LOC i used uses the incoming signal to turn on and has a remote turn on coming out to turn on my amps. The multimeter is your friend, just remember that the radio's switched power stays on for several minutes after you turn off the ignition unless you open the door.

I am currently rewiring the main amp feed to clean up the install under my hood, if you don't find it in the next hour or two, i will find a good point for you to connect to when i'm done.

2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
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In the fuse panel, 47, 48, and 49 are all 15 amp fuses switched with the ignition.

2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
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In the fuse panel, 47, 48, and 49 are all 15 amp fuses switched with the ignition.


I'm on a time crunch this afternoon and will only have about 30 minutes to run the remote wire. Thanks to your help, I'll be able to get it done today!
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Hey Chiefs,

Did it all work out? I am interested in you write up about where you tapped your rca's and how they sound.

Cheers

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Hey Chiefs,

Did it all work out? I am interested in you write up about where you tapped your rca's and how they sound.

Cheers
On vacation with limited internet access. will supply details next week when home.
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Bump for response. I'm interested as well.
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Okay guys, sorry it took me so long to get back here...

I now have an awesome sounding system with the factory HU! I installed the following speakers:
Shelby Kicker 8" subs in front door (These are supposed to be 2ohms but I think they might actually be 4ohms)
Polk Audio MM571 5x7's in front doors and rear deck (These come with an external crossover you have to mount but there's plenty of room for it)
TC Sounds TC-1000 12" sub (dual 4ohm VC's)

My factory sub amp was under the dash, on the driver's side, mounted all the way to the left. We pulled the wiring harness plugs and tapped into them. We confirmed the input wires were indeed low inputs. We cut a set of RCA's and wired the RCA's to these low level factory inputs. We also ended up routing the speaker wires from the aftermarket amp back up to the wiring harness for the 8". The factory subs were DVC and the Shelby's are SVC, so we went ahead and used two strands of factory wires for each Shelby sub.

Early on we discovered the voltage from the low level inputs was too low. So I purchased an AudioControl Overdrive Plus Line Driver which amplifies the voltage. This got us more than enough signal. Next in line after the line driver is a Kicker KX2 2-Way Crossover which allowed me to send mid-bass to the 8" and the low bass to the 12". The RCA's from the Kicker go to 2 separate Eclipse ZA1200 amplifiers. One of these amps powers the 8" and one powers the 12".

A couple notes would be that the factory remote wire does not put out enough power (5V) to turn on all my components. I currently have an Add-A-Circuit wired to the under-hood fuse box. Soon I'll have a relay soldered in that will allow the components to work from that signal (12V).

Also the Polks are highly efficient 2.7ohm speakers. They actually sound pretty darn good with the factory head unit but a bass blocker of some sort is needed. I ordered some 200uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitors from Parts-Express which should do the trick.

Also, I had some 4 gauge Raptor wire for my power and ground connections. That wire sucked and wouldn't have been enough even if it was true 4 gauge. I upgraded to KnuKonceptz least expensive 1/0 power and grounds, running to their distribution blocks, then 4 gauge out to the components. I was absolutely shocked how much better the system sounded, with the exact same gain levels & volume, as soon as I installed the KnuKonceptz wiring.

In the end my system sounds great and I'm not even blocking the bass to the 5x7's yet! It looks pretty much factory unless the look in the trunk or fold the seats down, which I like. I still have all my Sync functionality which was important to me.

Hopefully this info helps someone else who is thinking about tackling this job!
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Oh, I also used RAAMaudio sound deadening materials on my front doors. I used their mat and ensolite products. Very good products!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IA_Chiefs_fan View Post
Okay guys, sorry it took me so long to get back here...

I now have an awesome sounding system with the factory HU! I installed the following speakers:
Shelby Kicker 8" subs in front door (These are supposed to be 2ohms but I think they might actually be 4ohms)
Polk Audio MM571 5x7's in front doors and rear deck (These come with an external crossover you have to mount but there's plenty of room for it)
TC Sounds TC-1000 12" sub (dual 4ohm VC's)

My factory sub amp was under the dash, on the driver's side, mounted all the way to the left. We pulled the wiring harness plugs and tapped into them. We confirmed the input wires were indeed low inputs. We cut a set of RCA's and wired the RCA's to these low level factory inputs. We also ended up routing the speaker wires from the aftermarket amp back up to the wiring harness for the 8". The factory subs were DVC and the Shelby's are SVC, so we went ahead and used two strands of factory wires for each Shelby sub.

Early on we discovered the voltage from the low level inputs was too low. So I purchased an AudioControl Overdrive Plus Line Driver which amplifies the voltage. This got us more than enough signal. Next in line after the line driver is a Kicker KX2 2-Way Crossover which allowed me to send mid-bass to the 8" and the low bass to the 12". The RCA's from the Kicker go to 2 separate Eclipse ZA1200 amplifiers. One of these amps powers the 8" and one powers the 12".

A couple notes would be that the factory remote wire does not put out enough power (5V) to turn on all my components. I currently have an Add-A-Circuit wired to the under-hood fuse box. Soon I'll have a relay soldered in that will allow the components to work from that signal (12V).

Also the Polks are highly efficient 2.7ohm speakers. They actually sound pretty darn good with the factory head unit but a bass blocker of some sort is needed. I ordered some 200uF 100V Non-Polarized Capacitors from Parts-Express which should do the trick.

Also, I had some 4 gauge Raptor wire for my power and ground connections. That wire sucked and wouldn't have been enough even if it was true 4 gauge. I upgraded to KnuKonceptz least expensive 1/0 power and grounds, running to their distribution blocks, then 4 gauge out to the components. I was absolutely shocked how much better the system sounded, with the exact same gain levels & volume, as soon as I installed the KnuKonceptz wiring.

In the end my system sounds great and I'm not even blocking the bass to the 5x7's yet! It looks pretty much factory unless the look in the trunk or fold the seats down, which I like. I still have all my Sync functionality which was important to me.

Hopefully this info helps someone else who is thinking about tackling this job!

Sounds like quite a system, glad it all worked out for you. Originally I set up mine using the JL Audio SSI summing Line Out Converter, which seemed to work fine for about a month, but then started acting funny more and more. Just yesterday I installed a pair of AudioControl LC2i's one for the front channels and one for the subs. These LOC's use a signal sensing technology that will generate their own turn-on as well as a 12V turn-on for the amps in the system. I see you used an AudioControl product as well. I must say that these LOC's sound awesome, my first experience with AudioControl products and i am very impressed thus far.

Cheers.

2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
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Quote:
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Sounds like quite a system, glad it all worked out for you. Originally I set up mine using the JL Audio SSI summing Line Out Converter, which seemed to work fine for about a month, but then started acting funny more and more. Just yesterday I installed a pair of AudioControl LC2i's one for the front channels and one for the subs. These LOC's use a signal sensing technology that will generate their own turn-on as well as a 12V turn-on for the amps in the system. I see you used an AudioControl product as well. I must say that these LOC's sound awesome, my first experience with AudioControl products and i am very impressed thus far.

Cheers.

I'm in the process of adding just a SUB+amp in the trunk. I also bought the LCI2 since it says it compensates for the bass roll off So i should be able to tap it into the rear speakers. is this what you did? If not where did you tap into? (factory sub amp output?)

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I'm in the process of adding just a SUB+amp in the trunk. I also bought the LCI2 since it says it compensates for the bass roll off So i should be able to tap it into the rear speakers. is this what you did? If not where did you tap into? (factory sub amp output?)

I think the rear speakers will be fine, but I ran mine up to the sub amp just above the driver kick panel.

2012 GT CS Ingot Silver Vert, Edelbrock E-force supercharger with CAI and 3.5 Pulley, Tremec T-56 Mag, Accufab 84.5, Centerforce DF, Billet Yoke aluminum driveshaft, FRPP 3.73 Rear, MRT Performance H-pipe, Bassani axle backs, JL Audio sound, Edelbrock strut tower brace, JPC adjustable UCA, UMI adjustable panhard bar, KW V3 coilovers, Steeda heavy duty front mounts, Steeda rear LCA's, 20" Steeda Spyders with Michelin Pilot Super Sports, Steeda Big Brake Kit ....... it just keeps going.
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I think the rear speakers will be fine, but I ran mine up to the sub amp just above the driver kick panel.
GoT midlife CS, I have a question for you. I've been trying to figure out my bass problem after installing an aftermarket amp and 12" sub using an lc2i. I tapped into the rear speakers but i'm not able to get a decent amount of bass from my sub. I've been researching the lc2i for days now, tried all sorts of settings and I'm back to square one. Basically, the bass sub just sounds low and lacks punch even with the amp gain all the way up, and when I can get it to sound somewhat loud by cranking up the bass and accubass knobs, it doesn't sound clean.

I was starting to wonder if maybe the rear speakers aren't getting a full range signal and considered tapping into the "subs" in the door when I came across this thread. It sounds like you've got your lc2i dialed in tapping into the sub amp. Would you be able to provide me more details on how to do this?

I looked at the gray output harness you mentioned on the amp. Did you just find the 2 cables that correspond to the left sub, the 2 cables for the right sub and tap into those? Or was there more to it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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I looked at the gray output harness you mentioned on the amp. Did you just find the 2 cables that correspond to the left sub, the 2 cables for the right sub and tap into those? Or was there more to it? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
I found the output wires from the sub amp and tapped the right and left channels. I did this over two years ago, so my memory may be sketchy. As I recall the connector has 10 pins, one side with 6 and the other with 4. The stock subs are dual voice coil so there are 2 sets of +/- going to each. pins 1 and 2 serve left side voice coil 1, pins 3 and 4 serve Right side voice coil 2, pins 5 and 6 serve right side voice coil 1, and the middle two pins on the side with 4 pins (pins 8 and 9) serve left side voice coil number 2.

You will probably be served well to get a detailed manual that has wiring diagrams.

Good luck.


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