2012 Mustang V6 Base After Market Amplifier Installed!! - Ford Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011 Thread Starter
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2012 Mustang V6 Base After Market Amplifier Installed!!

I researched on this forum how to run the wires and strip the car interior and everything went pretty well considering I am not a professional installer. I don't know exactly if there will be any negative consequences of what I did. It worked for me and now my mustang is Bumping!!

I installed the following:

Hifonics 1000.1D amplifier (amazon $127)(hooked at 2ohms 750 watts Rms)
(2) 10" Kenwood Performance Series Subs 300 RMS Watt each (2 for $84.99 bestbuy black friday)
DB links 4 gauge Amp wire kit (amazon $26)
PAC Line Out Converter (amazon $14)

I connected the ground to the screw that holds the passenger side rear backseat back support using two clean washer.

I had a very hard time finding where to connect the blue Remote wire. Some of the threads out there say of a few places you can tap at the passenger compartment fuse panel. Unless I am stupid and could not count the fuse positions, I could not find a single one that was not ON all the time. I was getting mad and I had to call it a day because I had to go out with the wife. When I have more time I will check every single fuse in that compartment. Maybe the layout is different for the 2012, I don't why none of the "spare: hot in run or Acc" did not work. The keys were not even in the ignition and they were on. I know there is a 10 min timer switch for my car but I literally stayed in my car locked car for 10 mins and looked at my amp to see if it would turn off after the time, it did NOT.

So what did I do for this connection?

I moved to under the hood. To the Power Distribution Box in the engine compartment. Fuse location #39 which is a five amp fuse, based on my manual it protects the rear defroster coil.

Its exactly what I wanted. If I turn off the car the amp will turn off but the radio and stock speakers will continue playing for the usual 10mins more. I like that because I don't want the amp pulling power when the car is off anyways. Now I just need to secure the subwoofer box as my 300 horses make it move more than it should.

You guys have any ideas or suggestions to my remote wire method? Please specify why, as I would like to learn from my mistakes.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011
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I want a sub in my car but I will wait for the Scorshe kit to come out. I just installed rear speakers yesterday. I never realized how much crap you have to take out to install rear speakers. I don't really anything about car stero except how to change Head unit and Speakers. I wil have to watch someone one day.


2012 Performance Package V6 MT82
MODS- FRPP Sport axle back, Lethal Off/road X-pipe, Air Raid CAI, SCT Tuner BAMA 93R tune, 20% tint, Leather seat installed, Joe Heck Short shifter and bushing, Steeda Shift knob with billet collar, 4 6X8 kicker speakers.
Soon to come- Alum driveshaft, Interior Lighting, louvers, GT/CS front end, some kind of forced induction.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 12-31-2011
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I hooked mine up to the Acc power in the secondary (interior) fuse panel and works absolutely flawlessly!

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2012 Black 3.7L
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012
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I just let bestbuy di it cost me only $75 and they did my tint too lifetime warranty
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-01-2012
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Mine is connected pretty much the same way. Polk 12" mobile monitor connected to a Kicker 800 watt amp. Fuse connected under the hood to the battery so the amp shuts off when the engine is off. Sounds great, definitely need to fix the sub down.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012 Thread Starter
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I was really on a budget and the best buy here wanted to charge me $90 to install. I guess if I really wanted it I could have let them do it but I would have had to wait to a month or two to save for it (Im buying a house).

rgarza83, what % tint did you get for the back and the sides?

Hey Post_break are you using a custom box for you polk sub?

2VipeRs, how did you get that connection? Are you tapping into the fuse or did you find the wire coming from the ignition ACC, if so what color is that wire and roughly what position is it at looking at the fuse box straight on?

Thanks all, this is my first post and I'm glad you all responded
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012
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Standard box, surprised it fit in the trunk. Just barely slides under the stock speakers in the trunk. The guys suggested I put two 12" subs in the back since I'm pushing 750 RMS, but I just laughed, that's too much weight. I didn't want a 12" in the first place since it's bigger than a 10" but they were sold out. Either way I'm happy with the sound, and it pounds.

The nice thing about these cars is that they don't leak much sound, I can have it cranked up pretty high and hear nothing outside the car. I want to enjoy my music, not share it with other drivers.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-03-2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCinco View Post
I was really on a budget and the best buy here wanted to charge me $90 to install. I guess if I really wanted it I could have let them do it but I would have had to wait to a month or two to save for it (Im buying a house).

rgarza83, what % tint did you get for the back and the sides?

Hey Post_break are you using a custom box for you polk sub?

2VipeRs, how did you get that connection? Are you tapping into the fuse or did you find the wire coming from the ignition ACC, if so what color is that wire and roughly what position is it at looking at the fuse box straight on?

Thanks all, this is my first post and I'm glad you all responded
35% tint all round, i used to have darker ones in the back with another car but it was hard to see.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-08-2012
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Any Suggestions?

I also installed an after market amplifier and a subwoofer in the trunk in my 2011 V6 convertible. The speaker for the subwoofer housing was a raveland, the amplifier also.

Because the trunk from the Vert is different than that from the Coupe, I decided to buy a customized box for the Vert. After all, it seems that the housing is for all 2005+ models the same. I bought the housing at Zenclosures.com - they offer it on ebay and in their online store. Here you can see the housing, the protection for the speaker(optional) and the 8 screws for the speaker(optional). I also chose the golden speaker connection terminals. Over al, it was almost $160.



The protection for the speaker wasn't manufactored that precise (angle) and the small phillips screws were too long - so I had to use a file to bring it even and to the certain length:



Now I had to adjust the cable to the trunk lid, so that the housing fits underneath it. With the mounted amplifier it was a really thight installation - a bigger amplifier has to be mounted somewhere else:





Also the carpet has to be cut in shape. I had to saw a little piece of the wodden bottom off, otherwise you couldn't access the spare tire after you mounted the housing. I attached the housing to the bottom of the trunk with two screws from underneath the car (you can see the cut outs in the carpet). Unfortunately I wasn't able to use the threads in the botttom because the housing was too small (the holes would have been drilled in the vertical walls from the housing and in the bottom).

Now, where you can get the power?
I pulled the powercable from the battery through the front passenger fender into the inside if the car - it seems that the FORD engineers have forseen that there is a need to pull an additional cable into the car:





The remote signal for the amplifier: It depends what you want, there are two main possibilities:
1.) HOT when RUN or START
This means, the amplifier is on, if you start the car or if the engine is on. (i dind't choose this way)
2.) HOT when RUN or ACC
This means, the amplifier is on, if the key is in ACC position or the engine is on
I decided to use this possibility, because it switches the amplifier off if you start the engine so there is more power for the starter available. In some cases it protects the speaker also, because not all amplifier shut off if there is a loss in voltage (when you start the engine) and give some weird signals to the speaker.
I pulled that signal from the SmartJunctionBox (inside at the front passgenger side) from the violett-yellow cable (where the red probe tip is). This is some of the few locations where you can access this signal.

Now it was time to pull the power cable to the trunk - i removed some panels and lifted the iluminated panels at the front door only so far, that I could remove the carpet underneath it (unfortunately the panels are glued at the outside).



To get the signal to the amplifier i used the signal from the rear speakers, to get the level even for the amplifier rca input i use this Hi-to-Lo-Converter (some amplifier have HI-Level-Inputs).
I used the ground (for the amplifier) near the passenger tail light. To access that you have to remove the rear plastic panel in the trunk (unfortunately no picture).

After all, it was worth the time - it looks (and sounds) good, even when the roof is open (there is more bass if the roof is closed). The housing isn't that big, so I can use my Stang still as a family car...



So, hopefully somebody can use this little story for his advantage - we don't have to reinvent the wheel every time.

My car: 2011 V6 convertible Premium, Performance white, automatic
Mods: Pioneer&Kicker speaker, Airraid CAI, SCT-Tunes, painted mirror covers, 3.73 gears, FRPP LCA's, One-Touch-Convertible-Module, Fog lights
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i love seeing people take the time to write incredibly helpful posts. this will help out big time when i put my amp in. thanks!

2012 v6 white, base, performance package, borla ATAKs, 4 alpine type s speakers, 35% tint
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LuckyCinco View Post
2VipeRs, how did you get that connection? Are you tapping into the fuse or did you find the wire coming from the ignition ACC, if so what color is that wire and roughly what position is it at looking at the fuse box straight on?

Thanks all, this is my first post and I'm glad you all responded
Sorry I missed this post.

The fuse box, on the passenger kick board. I wrapped my remote wire around the cold side of the fuse (so that if it blows, my amp will not get power), and jammed the fuse in. You just need a basic circuit tester to tell which one is hot & which is cold.


I wired everything up my driver side, since I put my amp on my driver side. The only thing I did different was adding 40Amp breaker by my battery.

2012 Black 3.7L
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Did you replace the speakers? I doubt I need a sub now...

2011 Mustang Convertible Kona Blue - FRPP Sport Axleback - Bama 93R - Blackout Panel - Tri-Bar Valve Caps - Airaid CAI - 4x JL Audio C2-570x - Alpine MRP-F300 Amp - Speaker Sound Dampening - 27% tint all around.

In the future: Kona Mirror Covers, Boss 302 Suede Steering Wheel, Possible Mono amp/Sub.
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awesome write up about that box!

2012 Kona Blue V6 6M Base | Performance Package | Boss 302 Steering Wheel | MGW Shifter | Morel Components
1985.5 Black SVO | Stinger FMIC | Forced4 CAI | More Boost!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AJL View Post
Did you replace the speakers? I doubt I need a sub now...
I changed the two front speakers and the rear speakers in the side panel (because it's a convertible). The swap of the front speakers made a big change, the rear speakers weren't that big of an improvement.

There are still the two (stock) subwoofers in the door, but they don't have that power of the subbox - also the bass now goes really deeeeeeeeep. In some song's I now can feel(!) the bass at points, where nothing was before. (O.K., not my best English sentence, but I hope you'll know what I like to say).

It's not necessary to have a sub in the trunk - but what is really necessary? I feel better now - and if you install it yourself, it sounds much better

My car: 2011 V6 convertible Premium, Performance white, automatic
Mods: Pioneer&Kicker speaker, Airraid CAI, SCT-Tunes, painted mirror covers, 3.73 gears, FRPP LCA's, One-Touch-Convertible-Module, Fog lights
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Yeah the back wasn't all that great until I put an amp in, now they are as loud as the front, with gain/crossover adjustments. My speakers sound so awesome with rock music, but rattles too much with hip-hop.

Actually now that I think about it, the sub is a good idea in a convert. When I was driving with the top down the other day, all that bass I have with the top up isn't there as much with the top down (sound wise off course, the door still shakes the same), so a sub may be in my future soon, but I think I'd get one of those that I can put under the passenger seat.

Also, if you have an iphone or ipod touch there is a nice app called 10 Band EQ that is great for MP3s. Wish it worked with Pandora but no such luck. With that, you can adjust your sound exactly to your liking. It is the best EQ app for the iphone/ipod and I tried them all. Both my bass and treble on the desk are flat and the EQ does it all. I had been so close to buying an EQ to put in the trunk but glad I was able to save 400 bucks with this great app. There is also a good bass testing song called can U hear me by Bass Mekanik that you can get for a buck on Amazon to adjust your bass to its full potential without distortion.



2011 Mustang Convertible Kona Blue - FRPP Sport Axleback - Bama 93R - Blackout Panel - Tri-Bar Valve Caps - Airaid CAI - 4x JL Audio C2-570x - Alpine MRP-F300 Amp - Speaker Sound Dampening - 27% tint all around.

In the future: Kona Mirror Covers, Boss 302 Suede Steering Wheel, Possible Mono amp/Sub.
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